As part of a tete de cuvee Champagne dinner last night we had a small vertical of the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs.
The '96 and '98 were both initially quite reductive and needed a lot of air time. The '93 was a charmer from the first sniff, and amid a large selection of top wines (including a very nice '98 Pol Roger SWC & a badly corked Krug

) it was my (and Laura's) wine of the night for its nutty, apple & long toasty finish. Certainly a case of the lesser vintage showing better than tow wines that were too young. The '98 did eventually come around & was quite delicious though tight. The '96 is a complete powerhouse that needs every bit of 10+ years of cellar time.
I don't buy or drink a lot of Comtes de Champagne, and I should and will do more of that in the future. It's a great wine despite its big house origins.
