Venezia Giulia IGT - Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso “Ronco dei Moreri” - 2007 – Marco Felluga – Alc. 13.5% - (c. €12).
I have little previous experience of this Friulian grape variety (said to be similar to Savoy’s Mondeuse) so this was a revelation to me. It falls into the same vigorously fruity and tasty gastronomic slot as good Beaujolais Villages and crus or basic Blaufränkisch (but not the posh crus from Moric). Aromas were of savoury red fruit, damson and ivy with a shot of leather strap and a pleasing rustic edge. Body was medium/full and fruit quite round and smooth yet with vigorous acidity, tang and piquancy which were a tad rustic but very appealing; 15.5/20+++ QPR!
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 1996 – Domaine de la Grange des Pères – Alc. 13.8% - (€50+ for a new vintage), made from Syrah 40%, Mourvèdre 40%, CabSauv 20% and bottled without filtering.
This bottle had something quite Musar-like, as does Trévallon sometimes, albeit fuller bodied and more powerful. There was a similar discreet lacing of barnyard and VA, which did not dominate but which together added a layer of dark complexity and elegant brightness. As well as this there were complex aromas of plum, cherry, white flowers, some violet and cedar with good depth, full body, freshness and length. The overall impression was a seductive combination of power and lively elegance. On a previous occasion at a club tasting, I complained of accentuation of the volatility, darkening of the flavours and increased bitterness of tannins as the evening progressed but there was none of that this time. (Perhaps we drank the bottle too quickly for these faults to appear but I don’t think so because the bottle with heal taps still smells quite fresh two days later.) A Languedoc classic; 17/20+.
Valais AOC Cornalin 2002 – Denis Mercier, Sierre (CH) – Alc. 13% - (€20-25). Many of the wines from Valais show a lot of original personality and here it is enhanced by Cornalin, an indigenous red grape variety. Aromas were well developed with fine savoury black currant, minerals and ivy and the palate was medium bodied, linear and long with brightly focussed juicy fruit and minerals, lively acidity and an invigorating tang; a familiar grape with flavours somewhat similar is Gamay but this is much more elegant; 16.5/20.
Fleury Poncié 2008 – Domaine du Vissoux, Pierre-Marie Chermette – Alc. 12.5% (€12) was a delicious Beaujolais but not really so like the Cornalin above as that TN might suggest; the fruit was sweeter and more infused with prune flavours, the texture was thicker and there was more charm but much less finesse; still, a model Beauj 16/20 QPR!!.