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WTN: Desert Protocol III

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Bill Buitenhuys » Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:04 pm

Brunch at our house on Sunday morning before sending J and V off to the airport....

1999 Movia Puro Rose (Goriška Brda) Disgorged into the sink with great aplomb by V. Slightly cloudy but very clean and clear in taste. Dry,crisp, with some sweet fruit. I thought this might be more yeasty but it was subtle. Very good, and an excellent match with chorizo frittata

2004 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Andlau (Andlau) Crisp, clean riesling with only the slightest hint of rs after it opens and warms up a bit. Lots of apple, good acidity and minerality.

1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (Kamptal) WilliB GV alte reben is the only aged gruner I've had (thanks to Dr. Weiss for numerous openings) and this is consistent with the 1997. Lots of development with walnut skin, dry honey, a bit unctous, then a cleansing citrus finish.

2002 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) Who says Musar needs lots of time in the bottle? Wow, this is beautiful. Yes, it is entirely primary but the sweet fruit, soaring aromas, and wonderful balance are intoxicating.
Some 7 days later, sitting on the counter it's a mouthful of juniper and eucalyptus, lots of brambly dark fruit, and so silky. Lill describes the mouthfeel as the front roof of the mouth and tip of the tongue only, like all the bold flavor is just concentrated there. Interesting.

1989 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (Languedoc) This wine showed fairly subdued after the Musar. Sweet fruit, some spiciness, soft texture.

1973 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) As good as ever with this bottle. Dried roses, tar, orange peel. The aromas are truly soaring in a too-good-to-drink sort of way. The flavors are dominated by bloody iron then some sour cherry, it's dusty and perfectly acidic and is a bunch of all around goodness.

Daishichi Houreki Junmai Daiginjo (Fukushima) 2008 07, SMV +2, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. Rainwater on clay. This is truly beautiful sake. Clean, deep, and cleansing. My first from Daishichi. wow.

2004 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Cuvée Sacha (Arbois) Showing some walnut skin and oxidized character with a solid minerally, salty, acidic core and a vibrant finish. I do like the movement of those flor-like notes up front and the crispness of the finish. I was expecing more sous voile intensity intensity.

2004 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy (Arbois) This seems entirely shut down and not giving much at all. It was quiet and still fairly thin until Friday then the body expanded and it got all nutty and lively at once. This just might need time.

2003 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) Not showing much either aromatically or in flavor. Some fruit, good acidity, a hint of tannic structure but mostly quiet. It stays quiet all week.

1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Sémillon Vino da Tavola Bianco Botte 47 (Latium) Whoa. This wine had all kinds of sediment. It has this rich texture that finishes completely dry. The closest comparison to it for me is an aged Kalin semillon with dry butterscotch, roasted pears flavors. The semillon grew larger all week. Very herbal (dried herbs), some mint, luscious body. After a week sitting in a decanter on the counter, it is turning a bit south and bitter but there was only some dregs left.

2002 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Vague (Burgenland) - Lots of dried cling fruit, super sweet but with plenty of balancing acidity. Maybe more butteriness on the finish than I'd like but it is very good.
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by David M. Bueker » Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:38 pm

Love those Brundlmayer GVs.
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Bill Buitenhuys » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:40 am

Not having much GV experience, are there any other GV's that are similar in style to that WilliB alte reben?
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by JC (NC) » Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:43 am

I had a 2002 Nigl GV Alte Reben that was my favorite GV ever (I too don't have much experience with Gruner Veltliner.)
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Bill Buitenhuys » Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:33 pm

Thanks Jane. I went digging through the archives (got a bit dusty in there) and found your post on the '02 Nigl. It sounds very similar in profile to the Brundlmayer.
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Rahsaan » Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:48 pm

I'm no expert, but Nigl seems reasonable for a fan of Brundlmayer. As do many of the Kamptal and Kremstal producers (as opposed to Wachau or Weinviertel or other more far-flung areas)...
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Bill Buitenhuys » Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:15 am

Rahsaan wrote:I'm no expert, but Nigl seems reasonable for a fan of Brundlmayer. As do many of the Kamptal and Kremstal producers (as opposed to Wachau or Weinviertel or other more far-flung areas)...
What makes that delineation between Kamptal and Kremstal compared to other regions? I'm fairly clueless here. Is it stylistic or maybe more characteristic of the fruit?
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Rahsaan » Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:24 am

Bill Buitenhuys wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:I'm no expert, but Nigl seems reasonable for a fan of Brundlmayer. As do many of the Kamptal and Kremstal producers (as opposed to Wachau or Weinviertel or other more far-flung areas)...
What makes that delineation between Kamptal and Kremstal compared to other regions? I'm fairly clueless here. Is it stylistic or maybe more characteristic of the fruit?


I'm no expert but the Wachau is the home of the Big Bruisers and the wines from the Kamptal and the Kremstal don't seem to have the same power. Of course there is lots of vineyard/producer variation as well.

But, all three of these regions are pretty darn close (continguous actually) when compared to the broader picture of Austrian wine. So if you liked Brundlmayer you might start with his neighbors and move progressively out from there. Of course the most common shortcut is just to buy anything imported by Terry Theise :wink:
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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol III

by Charles Weiss » Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:55 pm

Bill Buitenhuys wrote:1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (Kamptal) WilliB GV alte reben is the only aged gruner I've had (thanks to Dr. Weiss for numerous openings) and this is consistent with the 1997. Lots of development with walnut skin, dry honey, a bit unctous, then a cleansing citrus finish.


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Best holiday wishes to you and Lil.
It certainly seems that the desert isn't dry.
Charles
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