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WTN: Desert Protocol II

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: Desert Protocol II

by Bill Buitenhuys » Thu Dec 17, 2009 2:59 pm

Things start to warm up on Day 2.

First at J's pre-dinner art showing to the Scottsdale crowd...

2002 André Clouet Champagne Millésimé (Bouzy) I love the presence in this bubbly. It's pretty yeasty, very well balanced, and politely assertive. Very nice.

2008 Le P'tit blanc du Tue-Bœuf (Touraine) Rich and round with white fruit flavors yet completely dry and refined on the minerally finish.

2006 Moric Blaufränkisch (Burgenland) I'm not sure what to make of this wine. It felt a bit flat and lifeless to me but maybe that was just its stark contrast to the Movia

2003 Movia Pinot Nero (Goriška Brda) Whoa doggie. Wild forest floor, earthy aroma, black cherry, sleek, flavorful, and silky. I was not expecting such yumminess.

Then dinner at Atlas Bistro
App: Duck confit, Main: Duck breast, Dessert: foie on pumpkin bread (duck, duck, goose)

N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' 1er Cru (Petite Montaigne de Reims) 100% pinot meunier Disgorged: Nov07, 40 months on the lees - Devoid of any toastiness or leesiness despite the extended time on yeast but that doesn't distract from it being quite enjoyable. It's fairly rich and densely flavored with a medium bead. Good balance but a bit abrupt on the finish.

Aged white flight
1990 Blackwood Canyon Chardonnay (Yakima Valley, Washington) - Another wonderful surprise as I'd never had an older domestic chardonnay other than Kalin. Very bold in flavors with stove-top buttered popcorn, orange peel, walnuts, and sweet fruit. Nicely aged, slightly oxidized but still quite vibrant and pushy on the finish. I'd buy this.

1988 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée LV (Sonoma) More of a Cathy Lane compared to the Blackwoods Patty Lane. "But they're cousins...identical cousins..." Elegant, seasalt minerality, honey, nutty, very refined balance, plenty of acidity. It would be contemplative if there weren't another half dozen or so wines to go.

1990 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) Not even close to three of a perfect pair as this wine is a completely different style of aged white. No oxidation, savory, tannic, earthiness, butterscotch, balance. Wow, this is pretty young.

1995 Rose Flight
1995 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado (Rioja) - Much more focus and delineation than '97 which to me was a jumbled mess. Very savory and herbal with a nice acidity streak. Blood orange, tomato consomme, a hint of tannins. This is pretty wild but it all works together

1995 Chateau Musar Rosé (Bekaa Valley) - Very much more understated than the LdH but it's a very beautiful and complex rose'.

Red flight
1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva (Rioja) Classic Bosconia with a super nose of forest floor, dried citrus and beef blood, an elegant mouthfeel, lots of swirling dark flavors, very lithe and lengthy, super acidity. Approachable now with lots of time ahead.

1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rioja) Should have opened this bottle 4-6 hours ago instead of just 90 minutes. It has a pretty forboding masculine structure but as it opens it shows lots of depth and potential. Dark fruit, richly flavored, lots of acidity.

1977 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - Lots of blood and horse, very much Chave-like on the front end. Nicely ripened fruit, complexity, excellent structure, amazing depth. This has all of these tertiary characteristics yet seems so very young and fresh.

Dessert
1998 Alois Kracher Scheurebe TBA #12 Zwischen den Seen (Burgenland) - Full on apricot and honey onslaught, sweet cream, orange peel, and a vibrant acid streak. Who needs dessert? (Well, me, seeing it was foie)
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol II

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:57 am

Lucky you Bill. Tondonia and Bosconia side by side!
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Desert Protocol II

by Bill Buitenhuys » Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:12 am

That was the plan, Bob! :D It's nice to see that contrast.

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