I've been saving these higher level Argentine chardonnays to see would they would fare with a few years of age. A friend invited us to taste his seafood risotto last night, and it seemed like a good occasion. To set the mood, our host opened a bottle of 2008 Tilia Chardonnay Mendoza that was, unfortunately, pure oak juice.
2004 Terrazas de los Andes Chardonnay Reserva Mendoza 13.5%
Curious aroma of olives, framed by light oak. In the mouth, however, the oak is considerable, to the point of heavy handedness. There is a nice bitterness that makes up, in part, for the inadequate acidity, but while the alcohol is well integrated and the mouth weight is good, this doesn't convince me as deserving to exist.
2004 Catena Alta Chardonnay Mendoza 13.5%
Caramel and mineral aromas. Good mouth weight, with strong oak flavor, but not as heavy handed as the Terrazas. Pleasant and balanced, but tastes a little spoofy.
2004 Vina Cobos Chardonnay Bramare Mendoza 14.7%
More refined caramel and mineral aromas. Good structure, less oak than the preceding two, but sweeter (hard to tell if from more rs or higher alcohol). Best of show, despite the sweetness and insufficient acidity.
All in all, a disappointing experiment.