Somehow I have never been to Le Verre Volé, despite several attempts during trips to Paris. So when Sharon suggested dining there on Monday, and given the fact that I was staying a few blocks away, it was an alignment of the stars.
Against her better instincts, somehow I managed to convince Sharon to start with Champagne. She selected the NV Bérèche et Fils Champagne Extra Brut Réserve which was pleasantly bracing and austere although far from neutral or boring. That said, I didn’t quite get the same excitement or complexity that Sharon did (maybe I wasn’t looking hard enough?), although it was more than pleasant for several hours.
Our server warned us of gas in the 2008 Overnoy-Houillon Arbois Pupillin, so we had it decanted. But this bottle was not gassy/fizzy at all. It did show a bit of armpit funk, but only a bit, and was mostly a bottle full of all the soft gentle flavors and textures we expect from Overnoy’s poulsard. It was still a bit round and not as delineated as some of the other vintages of this that I have loved, but I’m guessing that’s an age curve thing. Regardless of those nits, it was a wonderful match with my gargantuan cheese plate (not too many meatless options on this night) and Sharon seemed to enjoy it with her Blood Meat as well.
At this point one could have played it safe and peacefully sauntered home, but we bravely and intelligently moved on to the 2007 Jean-Yves Péron Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie “Champ Levat”. This was my call, and although Sharon was skeptical of the Mondeuse, I was happy to see that she enjoyed it. I’ve only had a few other vintages, but the deep dark round stony perfumed and fresh flavors were just as I remembered. I don’t have extensive exposure to Mondeuse, but Péron’s version has everything that I love about Northern Rhone syrah, pinot noir, and gamay, all wrapped into a unique bottle of wine.
As we left, people were passing around weirdly sweet glasses of a rustic Anjou but that could not detract from the rest of the good times. Bravo.