The tastings at ViniVins in Liège are a much more friendly and informal affairs than the big events with wine-growers organised by Licata Vini and Selezione Vini Italiani. This time Stefano Picchiori opened three wines which were not on the programme so as to help along the discussions. Another friendly aspect is the prices; much more reasonable than those other importers giving a lot of good QPR, especially after deducting a further 10% for the day's purchases.
Reds
Colli Euganei Ca’Emo 2007 – La Montecchia, near Padova – (€8), from Merlot 65%, Cabernet S and F 45%, came first in the line-up which is a difficult position when one has sweet traces of breakfast still in one’s mouth; quite fruity and grippy with a slightly chemical after-taste; not sufficiently interesting to warrant a later re-taste.
Sangiovese Superiore di Romagna Campo di Mezzo 2008 – Tre Monti – (€8) showed nice savoury fruit, touches of tobacco and stimulating acidity together with a touch of raw rusticity which may reduce in a few months; 15/20.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006 – Valori – (€8), owned by Masciarelli, showed rich, spicy plum decent acidity and firm structure; 15.5/20+++ QPR!!
When I remarked that this was about the same level as the basic Masciarelli, Stefano disagreed saying it was superior. To prove the point, he opened Montepulciano d’Abruuzo 2006 – Masciarelli (<€8) which showed attractive fruit with orange tints and minerals but less substance; 15.5/20 QPR!
Accordo 2005 - Tenuta Le Velette – (€10), made from Sangiovese 100% and matured in used barrels at this beautiful Orvieto estate, showed generously round spicy and juicy fruit and aromas with good acidity but slightly less tang than in Tuscany; very attractive 15.5/20+++ QPR!
Chianti Rufina 2007 – I Veroni – (€11), made from Sangiovese 90% and Canaiolo 10%, was leaner than the previous but showing nice red fruit and tea notes with greater focus and tang; 15.5/20 QPR.
Rosso di Montepulciano 2007 – Poliziano – (€11), made from Sangiovese 80% and Merlot 20%, was rounder and richer than the previous (Merlot?) but showed nice fruit with prune touches, some finesse and tang; 15.5/20 + QPR.
Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva Petrignone 2006 – Tre Monti – (€13), barrel matured but none new, bore the marks of its wood ageing but it was well integrated into the rich fruit giving an unusually sophisticated and velvety touch for young Sangiovese; there was enough acidity for balance; 16/20 QPR.
Chianti Classico Beradenga 2007 – Fèlsina – (€16) was more severe yet classier that any of the previous showing savoury red fruit, a lot of minerals, good substance, classical shape on the palate and firm structure; take another look in about 5 years; 16/20++ QPR.
Rosso di Corte 2005 – Corte Gardoni – (€17), from Cabernet Sauvignon 60% and Merlot 40% in the Bardolino area, could give many Médoc crus bourgeois a run for their money with its bright black currant and plum fruit, firm structure and attractive Bx herbaceous tang; only a certain sweet generosity which is rare in the Médoc might reveal its Italian origin; 16/20 QPR.
Negro di Nubi 2004 – Farnetella – (€18,50), from Pinot Nero 100% grown near Siena, appealed much less, was surprisingly similar to the Pommard 94 from Comte Armand which I opened later with dinner and it had similar faults; it was quite full bodied with dark fruit veering towards prunes and firm structure with its Pinot taste marred by that faint boiled cabbage touch at the back of its aromas; apparently it has commercial success so I must be wrong about it; 14/20 for me.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 – Fèlsina – (€22), from Sangiovese 100%, was quite closed aromatically but showed fine shape and greater length than the basic with ample substance, finesse and good structure; several years wait needed; 16.5/20 ++ potentially; QPR.
Maestro Raro 2004 – Fèlsina – (€31), from Cabernet Sauvignon 100%, showed great class with fine cassis impregnated fruit, tangy backbone, fine shape and structure with good length; 16.5/20++.
Brunello di Montalcino 2004 – La Gerla – (€34) was rich, juicy and tangy with generous body and not a hint of that over oaking and over extraction so common in Montalcino; 16.5/20+++ with more potential.
Whites
Pojer & Sandri, Faedo, Trentino
Sauvignon di Faedo 2007 – (€14) was a bit of an anti-climax after the last reds. Refreshingly crisp piss laced gooseberry and short seeming compared to the previous few; 14/20.
Traminer di Faedo 2007 – (€14) was spicy and fleshy with quite dark fruit and a bitter touch on its somewhat abrupt finish; 14/20++.
To show us something more ample, Stefano then opened –
Russiz Superiore, Friuli
Collio Bianco Pinot Grigio 2008 showed an almost Alsatian, but dry, fleshiness and richness with round dark fruit and perhaps a touch of alcohol burn on the finish; 15.5/20++.
Collio Bianco Sauvignon 2008 was much smoother and richer than the Trentino with a creamy touch and decent length; not quite what I look for in Sauvignon but impressive; 15.5/20.