Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 2005
Thanks to Remo. Medium-deep ruby-black colour. Again, as in other Cuvée Laurence vintages I have tasted, ever so slightly worn out fruit quality (due to the extended barrel age). Seemingly more serious, maybe some more concentrated lots were selected, even so, this is a drier as well as more peppery and spicy wine, with less sweet and round, slightly more gamey-beefy, possibly deeper, slightly hard, even tough yet racy “fruit”, with nice herbs. Certainly a well-structured wine with good length, in need of more bottle age. I am undecided whether I like the Cuvée Laurence better in this vintage than the Cuvée Réservé, my gut feeling says I do, but the wine will still have to prove me right – what is certain is that at this early stage, the Cuvée Réservé gives greater drinking pleasure. Rating: 92+?
Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella TB Vigneto Alto 1997
Thanks to Dani. 300 cases total production only, from a yield of 20 hl/ha. 16% alcohol. 1997 remains my favourite Bussola vintage, both for the Recioto and single vineyard Amarone, for sheer complexity and expression. Plummy-pruney ruby-red with a soft amber-brown hue, black reflections and some watery orange at the rim. Almost soapy-sweet plum and raisins, milk chocolate, sweat and faint volatile nail polish, soft meat and herbs, tannic brown spice with a touch of oak marzipan. Round and long, comes across as more Riserva-styled in an old-fashioned way, as well as more Rhône-like than most Bussola since (if not including the) 1990 – the hackneyed comparison to Amarone usually only works one way and not the other, but this for once is a bit reminiscent of an Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape (the 2000 Célestins perhaps, even if one will find even greater depth there). Recioto-like volume and mouthfeel, too, or almost. The 16% alcohol integrates amazingly well. Would not mind having this exceptionally rare bird again one day! Rating: 94+/~95
Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 1990
Split cost bottle. Also plummy ruby-black, fractionally murky and pink like some Dal Fornos (interestingly, the colour tends to improve with airing for the first few hours, looking much fuller and glossier in the end than Bussola’s 1997 Vigneto Alto), slight watery-orange rim. Greater intensity on the palate than the nose, this is still a few years short of full maturity. Lightly chewing gum like plummy black cherry and marzipan nose, greater purity than Bussola’s 1997 Vigneto Alto, less (but again ever so slightly) volatile. The most alcoholic of the three Amarones that night, even though there is ”only” 15% alcohol labelled here. Quite full body. More (that is, medium) grain to the tannin (could be finer and more savoury). Quite long (could be longer still). More power and grip than the Bussola, less long, and seemingly more modern flavour profile, certainly oakier (but no problem), rather less finesse. The difference may ultimately be slight, but I am not sure I did not like this even better in its youth. I would probably hold remaining bottles for a few more years and see what happens. Rating: 95+/95?
Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 1995
An excerpt from a mail Romano sent to a friend of mine, Fredrik from Sweden: „Per quanto riguarda il 1995, questo è uno dei pochi Amaroni con un residuo zuccherino più elevato, forse per questo preferibile agli altri, ma per me appartiene a una fase superata.“ I will admit this strikes me as a pity since I tend to find (some) residual sugar gives many an Amarone a more approachable, enjoyable character – bone-dry yet powerful, possibly alcoholic Amarone are not only not to my taste, I find them hard to stomach. (Not sure this presentment of a stylistic change is entirely justified in view of some of the older wines, by the way: does the monster 1989 contain much residual sugar, or the 1990 any?) The 1995, despite the labelled 17.5% alcohol, can be drunk (versus sampled in thimblefuls) with pleasure. Deep, fresh ruby-black, by far the most youthful-looking of the Amarones that night. Greater purity and almost incredibly concentrated even compared to a wine like the 1990 (yields were again cut down in half following the 1993 vintage here). Exotic, still lightly Rhône-like black cherry and black olive oil, dark chocolate, sweet charcoal or asphalt, soft coffee. Dense and oily mouthfeel, subjectively rather dry (what the barely noticeable residual sweetness does is counterbalance the awesome alcohol, concentrated fruit, extract and tannin). Savoury if no doubt partly oak-induced tannin that, given some airing, I found most impressive for Amarone. By far the most youthful, unevolved and intense of the three Amarones that night. Rating: 97+
Pierre Usseglio Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de Mon Aïeul 2005
Thanks to Remo, who spontaneously opened a bottle for his voracious guests. From a yield of 22 hl/ha, a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah from Les Serres, La Crau, and Guignasse, aged in tank. Fresh-looking, still lightly purple-hued ruby-black colour. Tight garrigue (roasted herbs and pepper), fresher, racier and livelier than in Pégau’s Cuvée Laurence (that I retasted after dinner), culminating in a top note of dried sage and powdery lavender. Youthful camphor bitterness to the dusty-powdery/flintstony tannin (that many 2005s displayed early on – this just seems unevolved and, more to the point, rather shut down). Some Kirsch Schnaps and blueberry/blackcurrant liqueur with airing, perfectly integrated alcohol, soft black and grey pepper, towards the back end more red beet with touch of anise. Nicely concentrated, tightly tannic wine. Like the clean and pure, utterly oak-free, neither overtly traditional, nor noticeably modern style of this bottling – given some bottle age, I am sure the 2005 will please my wine buddies, too. Rating: 92+/93(+?)
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti