Parker and Points-funny Essay on tasting Notes

But then, my sense of humor is juevenile to the max.
http://doghouseriley.blogspot.com/2009/ ... se-of.html

Let's deal with Parker (and Easterbrook) first, as this will buttress our later argument for capital punishment for first degree pretension of expertise. Parker is a wine writer who, almost single-handedly, made the world safe for yuppie-scum "connoisseurship" by giving wines--hands down the most complex agricultural product on earth--big, public-school-grammar-test-type grades on a hundred-point scale. This practice, also adopted by the glossy specialty-rag The Wine Spectator, is, simply put, a joke. There is no such thing as the expertise required to reduce such a demonstrably subjective experience with such precision, and, if there were, it would only serve to record the impressions of an individual whose palate is markedly different physiologically from wide swaths of his audience. (The Spectator ratings are panel averages, if memory serves. So was the Iraq war.) Not to mention the fact that the historical record, and that of these gray eminences, is chock-a-block with reconsiderations and backtracks as different vintages mature in different, sometimes unexpected ways.

This is not to say that Parker is an unperceptive wine writer (he does have a marked taste for power over finesse and overripe, high alcohol wines I personally find both unfortunate and boring, but, hey, tastes differ). But confronted for thirty years now over those essay-question numerical grades, he's made a lukewarm defense, blamed the public and the corrupt wine-production and distribution system, and gone on happily milking consumer gullibility in the name of consumer education. (I once stood in a wine-store aisle opposite a woman who was asking for a clerk's recommendation for California cabernet. Upon receiving it she said, "But that only got an 88! I want something 92 or above!")

[David M. Bueker]

Not that I am a points guy, but this is yet another repetitive screed against something that has at least made wine easier for the average person who could give a rat's *** about all the endless nuances and details that we (the geeks) seem to think is so dreadfully important.

Well it is important...to us. The vast majority of the world wants a wine that tastes good to them and their impressionable minds/palates, and they are going to buy Yellow Tail and "93 pointers" whether we like it or not. The only way things would materially change is if somehow Robert Parker and Marvin Shanken crashed in the same plane.

The only way things would materially change is if somehow Robert Parker and Marvin Shanken crashed in the same plane.

Honestly, even that would not change anything. I think the wine world has irrevocably changed, especially with regard to the normal civilian buyer of wine. Whether the change has been for the better or not is in the eye of the beholder, or taster, as the case may be.

Glenn

Not that I am a points guy, but this is yet another repetitive screed against something that has at least made wine easier for the average person who could give a rat's *** about all the endless nuances and details that we (the geeks) seem to think is so dreadfully important.

Well it is important...to us. The vast majority of the world wants a wine that tastes good to them and their impressionable minds/palates, and they are going to buy Yellow Tail and "93 pointers" whether we like it or not. The only way things would materially change is if somehow Robert Parker and Marvin Shanken crashed in the same plane.

Ah...but I thought it was a FUNNY pointless screed against points. And, if you follow the link, he makes it clear that he is skeptical of critics of Parker as well...so...

[David M. Bueker]

Why would I follow the link?

I'm loathe to enter this thread with my heart (and even my head is having serious doubts...) but FWIW I'll offer the following thoughts:

- People have often taken advice, especially when not sure or fazed by the selection they encounter.
- The advice might have been from books, newspaper columns, friends, merchants or just because the label looks nice
- Critics have scored wines for years (be that a 5 star scale, 20 point scale, etc.).
- Interpreting the wine style is, and always has been, at least as important as a personal opinion on how good it is. It usually takes people a few years (and occasionally the odd slap from a good friend ) to work this out.

In recent years we've seen:
- Strident US based critics (not just Parker) whose self-confidence seemed to strike a chord with enough people that they'd place their trust in the opinions.
- A growth in high end wine interest (specifically in the US), and a particular subset of people seeing wine as a profit making / investment vehicle. This linked with the comment above saw a very dynamic influence on the wine market, with high scores generating rapid price rises, leading more people to want 'a piece of the action'. Quite what % bought because they expect to drink the wines vs. bought to sell on, I'm not sure (and I think the distinction is pretty blurred)
- More wines produced / tailored / adapted to try and garner high points scores. It's not a gimmee to achieve this and we sometimes simplify the image of the 'Parker palate', but it's very much been a visible market trend in some regions. If the punters are jumping on the bandwagon then who can blame the producers?

However more recently we've seen:
- A certain amount of pushback on wine styles. That's natural as people taste through the wines they've bought and start working out what they do & don't like. Mixed in is some resentment of the changes to certain wine styles and indeed at the strident manner of the assertions of what is good and what is not.
- Tall poppy syndrome. Parker, and to a lesser extent other critics, is seen by some as 'too big for his boots'. He's at times an easy target and his every word seems to provoke argument. OK I personally think he too often does a fine line in crass arrogance and aggressive defensiveness, yet some seem to be gunning for him as more sport than idealistic differences.
- The growth of Cellartracker, putting the opinions of ordinary folk out there in a far more visible medium. Indeed these are the wines people are drinking and wines with a little more age on them than the typical 'just released' wines that critics comment on. OK, they're a very mixed bunch at times, but this is significant resource. More than that, it's likely to shift the focus back to wines drunk at home, possibly with food, tasted over an hour or two, and opened much closer to nominal maturity. It might start showing up the show ponies, made to look fancy on release, but with questionable futures.

The future?
- Cellartracker to continue to increase it's influence, with the critics (e.g. HRH Jancis recently) rapidly aligning with it, to ensure their paying customers see the critic's notes alongside those of ordinary punters.
- Specialist critics to prosper via a deep knowledge of their area, but a few generalist critics to continue to provide the overview of the scene. These generalists may end up more as editors (e.g. Hugh Johnson, Tom Stevenson), leaning on specialists in the various regions, but packaging it all up as a coherant guide.
- The investment crew continue to follow scores, but being more wary of some areas and perhaps focus on the safer bets of high profile 'winners' (e.g. High placers in WS top 100, Parker Bordeaux and Napa high pointers, but getting out of riskier bets such as US market Aussie wines and new wave Spanish wines - Jay Miller for all his faux-pas seems to be getting stick for liking the same wines Parker was lauded for praising )
- The market increasingly looking to Asia: for sales, for a hope of influence and for insight into what they want. I don't see an asian 'Parker' emerging soon, but maybe 5-10 years down the line, they may well decide they want 'their' man. He/she may come for the retail or auction scene, or maybe through a successful publication.

Sorry for the brain dump

regards

Ian

I don't agree with Parker's Ayatollah-like pronouncements (you must agree with my personal preferences or you're either ignorant or stupid when it comes to wine).

But I don't doubt for a minute his sincerity. And, having met him in person, his unbridled enthusiasm for wine appreciation is infectious. At least in the USA, there's no denying that he is the most influential wine writer of the second half of the 20th century. And he, and his reviews, got me off to my start in wine appreciation, even if I've long since outgrown them. For that I'm deeply appreciative.

And I can't help admiring his brilliant and classic tasting note for a truly vile California cabernet sauvignon:

"The vinous equivalent of Liquid Plumber".

I had the misfortune of tasting that very wine, and I agree fully with Parker's assessment. The tasting group I was with each tried a sip of the wine and then spit it out violently. We then debated whether it would be safe for the pipes to pour it down the sink. We eventually used the rest of the bottle as weed killer in the host's garden.

-Paul W.

But I don't doubt for a minute his sincerity. And, having met him in person, his unbridled enthusiasm for wine appreciation is infectious. At least in the USA, there's no denying that he is the most influential wine writer of the second half of the 20th century. And he, and his reviews, got me off to my start in wine appreciation, even if I've long since outgrown them. For that I'm deeply appreciative.

.

This paragraph puts in words pretty much how I see and feel about Parker. I have very little use for people who try to make their mark in the wine world by being the BIGGEST anti Parker in the world.

[David M. Bueker]

I have very little use for people who try to make their mark in the wine world by being the BIGGEST anti Parker in the world.

That makes the wine internet a pretty tough place lately.

Why would I follow the link?

Because Riley is a funny writer.

I shall not comment on either Mr. Parker or on the point system at this time. Nor will I comment about the language of wine. I will however comment on the article. In summation, an ideal piece of anti-intellectual verbal trash written by a person who feels that his audience enjoys vulgarity (both in words and thought) as much as he. In other words - I was not amused.

Best
Rogov

I don't agree with Parker all the time, but I think we can all realize that his success must at least tell us that his taste profiles are closer to the average consumer than the rest of us.

One thing about critics, if you know that you usually agree with Parker, then buy what he likes. If you don't agree then when he says a wine is too simple-go buy that wine!

For me I know I generally agree more with Parker then with say Wine Spectator.

If you don't agree then when he says a wine is too simple-go buy that wine!

and you'll save a lot of money not buying wines that have inflated prices due to high Parker scores.

If you find yourself saying "Aw, Jeez, not this shit again" to Parker threads, it is a indicator you've been wasting too much time on wine boards.
Guilty as charged.
Redwinger

I shall not comment on either Mr. Parker or on the point system at this time. Nor will I comment about the language of wine. I will however comment on the article. In summation, an ideal piece of anti-intellectual verbal trash written by a person who feels that his audience enjoys vulgarity (both in words and thought) as much as he. In other words - I was not amused.

Best
Rogov

I have very juvenile taste in humor. Mea culpa.

Brian, Hi.....

Continuing for a moment with the Latin - nihil est or, in somewhat more modern terms "no problem...its different strokes for different folks">

Best
Rogov

I enjoy juvenile sarcasm. If you read him regularly, he is hardly "anti-intellectual" but more of a contrarian who enjoys sneering at "conventional wisdom." Given that he lives in Indianapolis, most of his venom is aimed at the kind of middle American conventional wisdom reactionary "bidnessman" Republicanism that dominates the State (my home state, although I am from a smaller City in the northeast corner of the State)

And, actually, he is not sneering so much at Parker as at a pseudo-libertarian attacking Parker. This may not be apparant upon a quick scan.

Republicanism that dominates the State (my home state, although I am from a smaller City in the northeast corner of the State)

North of Richmond? (my stepfather owned a bakery there - and I attended Earlham for one semester before enrolling at IU).

So much fuss over a man bitten by a radioactive spider!

[David M. Bueker]

So much fuss over a man bitten by a radioactive spider!

Ooh...good one!

North of Richmond? (my stepfather owned a bakery there - and I attended Earlham for one semester before enrolling at IU).

Fort Wayne. Which is actually a somewhat "liberal" city with minority groups and (gasp) gays and "fine arts". I will certainly note that the public school system is far superior to that in my current California county of residence...the high schools don't look like Blackwater camps. Still..it's like Minus twenty or somthing like that there right now.

North of Richmond? (my stepfather owned a bakery there - and I attended Earlham for one semester before enrolling at IU).

Fort Wayne. Which is actually a somewhat "liberal" city with minority groups and (gasp) gays and "fine arts". I will certainly note that the public school system is far superior to that in my current California county of residence...the high schools don't look like Blackwater camps. Still..it's like Minus twenty or somthing like that there right now.

High of 27 there today after a high in the teens yesterday. Yes, Indiana public schools are still, on the whole, places one can send a child with few qualms. And, yes, CA public schools have gone to the bow-wows since I was educated there. My erstwhile school district (RIP) declared bankruptcy in the late '80s and the restructured entity limps along on life support. What's really sad are the cuts being visited upon the Cal State and UC systems, once the pride of American public Universities.

Mark Lipton

Mark Lipton