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WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

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Brian K Miller

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WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:09 pm

2004 Poderi le Bocie Le Trame Chianti Classico From the Beradegna area. Really cool "bohemian cartoon scrawl" label.

Purchased a few months ago at Terroir in SF (Here's hoping they reopen soon!).

Quite funky and quite delicious.

Someone here speculated that self conscioussly "natural" wines have a certain character that transcends region or even varietal. This wine might be an illustration of that, as it was not all that stereotypically "chianti-esque" (or maybe chiantiesco? :P ) Still...it was delicious.

Nose showed quite a bit of funk from brett or some other beasty, but while at the upper end, I am quite brett-tolerant and I enjoy this level of funk. Very nice berry fruit peaking out from underneath the brett...the fruit was almost Barbera-ish in its yummy berry goodness. Also some bright cherry fruit, and excellent acidity-this would be a good food wine. Very nice bitter note on the finish. Pretty much enjoyable all around, but not chianti typicite.

For comparison, we tasted the 2007 Felsina Beradegna. This is not in all that great a place right at this moment, but it still showed nice lean bright cherry fruit.

Finally, my friend John wandered over to the shelves to pick up a bottle of Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva, which I had raved about. Unfortunately, after popping the cork we noticed this was the last bottle on the shelf of the dread 2003 vintage. My one negative note from the 2004 was a bit of heat (14% abv) so California levels of alcohol were not a surprise here (14.5%) and it tasted even hotter. Unfortunately, the fruit was stewed and out of balance and the alcohol was really noticeable. I'm not sure this wine would age very well, either, as the stewed pruney notes suggest no grand future for this bottling. A much harsher wine than the 2004. They should have declassified this vintage. :evil:
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Daniel Rogov

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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Daniel Rogov » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:26 pm

Brian, Hi.....

May I ask for a definition of "natural wine"?

Thanks and Best
Rogov
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Rahsaan » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:26 pm

Brian K Miller wrote:Someone here speculated that self conscioussly "natural" wines have a certain character that transcends region or even varietal...Nose showed quite a bit of funk from brett or some other beasty...


That is certainly part of it :wink:
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Rahsaan » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:27 pm

Daniel Rogov wrote:May I ask for a definition of "natural wine"?


Haven't we been around this block before? :wink:
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:37 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Daniel Rogov wrote:May I ask for a definition of "natural wine"?


Haven't we been around this block before? :wink:



LOL. I am too lazy to google the threads where "natural" has been defined. Hence, the use of the "" :mrgreen:

One simple "definition", for Americans at least, is to look at who is importing the wine. This was a Neil Rosenthal wine. The infamously hilariously admirably curmudgeonly Dressner is the other obvious " ideological" natural wine importer. Kermit Lynch to some degree. Maybe Jenny & Francois (source of a Corbieres that transcended even my brett tolerance/love), Beaune Imports to a lesser degree.
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Rahsaan » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:48 pm

Brian K Miller wrote:Dressner is the other obvious " ideological" natural wine importer.


While Dressner has a few of the producers that fall into this French clique (Mosse, Breton), I think a higher percentage of the Jenny and Francois wines are from the heart of this clique. They even self-identify as importers of 'natural wines' whereas Dressner seems skeptical of that term and prefers 'real wine'.

Lots of internal minutae! Which may or may not make sense...
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:40 pm

Ah, yes...there are inumerable shadings of meaning in these terms, Rahsaan! "Real Wine" versus "Natural Wine." :mrgreen:

I guess my bottom line is I enjoy a bit of funk and brett, so I tend to be sympathetic to the various schools and arguments.
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Saina » Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:57 pm

I also loved the three bottles I managed to get of the Boncie '04 - but for seemingly quite different reasons than you. All three of mine were squeaky clean (which wasn't perhaps such a surprise as IIRC this isn't one of those "natural" producers who does away with sulfur) and had such purity that I am tempted to wax lyrical in an Aristotelian idealistic way. I certainly thought it was full of typicité.
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:42 pm

Otto Nieminen wrote:I also loved the three bottles I managed to get of the Boncie '04 - but for seemingly quite different reasons than you. All three of mine were squeaky clean (which wasn't perhaps such a surprise as IIRC this isn't one of those "natural" producers who does away with sulfur) and had such purity that I am tempted to wax lyrical in an Aristotelian idealistic way. I certainly thought it was full of typicité.


There was sulfite.

Who knows what happens on a transatlantic shipment?

I loved the fruit in this wine, though. Terroir is currently closed (for building renovation...nothing to do with them per se), but I hope they have some left!
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Mark S » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:43 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Brian K Miller wrote:Dressner is the other obvious " ideological" natural wine importer.


..Dressner seems skeptical of that term and prefers 'real wine'.



Semantics, my friend, semantics.

A schtick is a schtick is a schtick....
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Rahsaan » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:08 pm

Mark S wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:
Brian K Miller wrote:Dressner is the other obvious " ideological" natural wine importer.


..Dressner seems skeptical of that term and prefers 'real wine'.



Semantics, my friend, semantics.

A schtick is a schtick is a schtick....


Is it still semantics if neither natural wine nor real wine exist?
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Brian K Miller » Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:50 pm

What is this "exist" of which you speak, grasshopper? If a marketing or ideological term moves product, develops a niche, provides a soapbox...then existence IS. :mrgreen:
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: "Natural" Chianti Classico.

by Mark Lipton » Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:10 pm

Mark S wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:
Brian K Miller wrote:Dressner is the other obvious " ideological" natural wine importer.


..Dressner seems skeptical of that term and prefers 'real wine'.



Semantics, my friend, semantics.

A schtick is a schtick is a schtick....


and a schnook is a schnook is a schnook. :lol:

Mark Lipton

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