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Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

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Joshua Kates

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Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Joshua Kates » Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:10 am

2006 Domaine Pavelot Savigny-Les-Beaune 1re Cru La Daminode 13%
In the glass velvetish red color (not particularly deep and dark nor should it be). Welcoming nose, with hints of forest floor. Decanted after tasting and it came together nicely both in the decanter and in the glass after half an hour or so. Leads off with dark fruits, classic almost dusky Pinot taste (it's been a while since I last experienced). After which, along with spice notes, some acidity kicks in, with glimmers off and on of the "sauvage" in the nose. Medium to long finish. Shows potential, but right now full complexity of which it may be capable does not register. 90

2004 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanee 13%
Opened and drank this right after the Pavelot; definitely, in its prime and it immediately grabbed mine and everyone else's attention. Slightly lighter in color, the nose offered mainly various fruit, no dark notes. In the mouth, opens with powerful red fruit, really mouthifilling but never heavy. The mid-palate separates out and complicates the initial flavors, w/very fine, hardly detectable tannins at the end. Very clear, well-delineated wine, Medium finish. 92

Both of these wines retail for less than $40; they reinforce the conviction that even Burgundy can be something of a bargain.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:19 am

The wines of Savigny are one of the go-to regions for quality Burgundy at reasonably affordable prices. Of course the Pavelot Dominode was not near to $25 just a few years ago, so the value standard has shifted even in the Cote de Beaune.

Glad to see a positive note on a 2004 Monegard-Mugneret. I laid down a few bottles of their Echezeaux.
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Paul Winalski

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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Paul Winalski » Sun Dec 06, 2009 2:43 pm

Like David, I've always considered Savigny one of the go-to appellations for QPR within the Cote d'Or. Pavelot is one of my favorite Savigny producers.

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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Rahsaan » Sun Dec 06, 2009 2:50 pm

Joshua Kates wrote:Both of these wines retail for less than $40...


Maybe the 2004 MM VR was less than $40 on release (or on closeout) but these days isn't $50-60 a more typical price?
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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Joshua Kates » Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:15 pm

Rahsaan,

I remembered by the MM VR at something of a fire sale price, so, in the course of writing my post, I quickly checked the web and it came in right around $40. Drilling a little deeper, it does seem to have gone a bit beyond that in the last few years. Even so, if not entry level then intermediate, it showed a lot better than much Pinot at a comparative price.

Best,
Josh
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James Roscoe

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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by James Roscoe » Sun Dec 06, 2009 11:02 pm

Is wine over $20 a "bargain"? It may qualify as a qpr, but I am priced out at my salary level. I guess we all have a different perception of "bargain".
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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Rahsaan » Sun Dec 06, 2009 11:32 pm

Joshua Kates wrote:Even so, if not entry level then intermediate, it showed a lot better than much Pinot at a comparative price.

Best,
Josh


Oh yeah, I don't dispute that that is still entry level-ish, I was just lamenting the fact that I can't buy it for $40! :D
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Re: Good and Better "Entry Level" Burgundy

by Paul Winalski » Sun Dec 06, 2009 11:43 pm

James Roscoe wrote:Is wine over $20 a "bargain"? It may qualify as a qpr, but I am priced out at my salary level. I guess we all have a different perception of "bargain".


Unfortunately, in the world of Burgundy, $20 does constitute a "bargain". The Cote d'Or has a worldwide (and, in the best instances, well deserved) reputation for highest quality pinot noir and chardonnay. Worldwide demand has followed. And production is, unfortunately, miniscule. We Burgundy aficionados can only hope that the severe global recession takes some of the wind out the demand that propels the prices upward.

Savigny doesn't have the lofty reputation as a commune of, say, Vosne or Chambolle or Beaune, and hence the wines have been relative bargains compared to the more highly regarded appellations. The premiers crus from the top producers, in particular, have been consistently high quality and relatively modest in price--a rarity in the minefield that is Burgundy wine.

-Paul W.

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