WTN:So-so new Beauj.,good Savennières,soft Faller Riesling

Some of this week’s wines have already been the subject of TNs to which I have nothing to add (or subtract) and another has been posted on the Cahors thread. That leaves only three.

Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 - Joseph Drouhin – Alc. 12.5% - (c. €8). After all the hype about the 2009 vintage conditions, I expected to enjoy this wine more than I did; there was some quite acidic red fruit with banana touches, a gravelly mouth-feel, a piquancy that some people may call mineral but was more chemical to me and a certain bitterness on the finish; maybe it will be better in two or three weeks but I wouldn’t count on it; 13/20.

Savennières 2005 – Château de Varennes – Alc. 14.5% - was full bodied and mouth-filling, even a bit spoofy, with traces of alcohol bitterness on the finish but it worked for me; there was attractive rich and somewhat burnished fruit with touches of apple and pear mingled with minerals and sufficient acidity for balance and the alcoholic bitterness served to support the quite long finish; 16/20++.

Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Schlossberg II 1997 – Domaine Weinbach, Colette Faller et ses filles – Alc. 13%. I bought this bottle at the estate along with several other 1997s on the strength of their youthful exuberance when tasting them and enthusiastic reviews by famous critics; I should have drunk them up quickly as Madame Faller advised. They have turned out to be amongst my more disappointing purchases due to the vintage’s low acidity and this Riesling was closed for many years. It has now opened up showing an attractive complexity of aromas with slightly burnished white fruit and minerals and petrol peeping though. The palate is round with medium weight, complex and attractive flavours and a certain elegance but the lack of acidity makes it seem somewhat nerveless and soft on the finish; 15.5/20+.

[David M. Bueker]

1997 was such an attractive year for Alsace when the wines were released. In hindsight we probably should have known that the wines did not have the backbone to actually profit from cellar time.

I only bought CFE and CSH and I am reasonably satisfied with the way they have stood the test of time!

Is that a new or an old producer of Savennières? I've never heard of them.

So much going on in the region!

Some critic actually said 1997 in Alsace was good? No thanks. Even CFE is softer than any of the surrounding vintages (other than 1999).

If you want good aging wine from Alsace, stick to even numbered vintages. (with 2001 being the notable exception).

Is that a new or an old producer of Savennières? I've never heard of them.

So much going on in the region!

Rahsaan, I used to see Savennières Château de Varennes around quite a lot and there was a lighter second wine Clos de Varennes. RSJ in London used to stock it and also Rob, the Brussels gastronomic temple; I owned a few bottles in the late 90s and early 00 and liked them in their "modern" way. I believe it was part of the Château de Fesles/Roulerie empire when it was acquired by Bernard Germain from the pastry chef, Gaston Lenôtre, but according to the label it is now owned by Vignobles Alain Château (?).

It had been off my radar screen for some years but when I saw it this Autumn in the Carrefour Foire aux Vins (bedecked with a Médaille d'Or from the Paris Concours Général Agricole), I thought that I would give it a whirl. This one was in much the same style as I recall but I suppose it was difficult to make bad wine in 2005, provided one likes the vintage's rich style.

Some critic actually said 1997 in Alsace was good? No thanks. Even CFE is softer than any of the surrounding vintages (other than 1999).

If you want good aging wine from Alsace, stick to even numbered vintages. (with 2001 being the notable exception).

Amongst the critics praising 1997 in Alsace when it came out were Wine Advocate (Rovani then, I think) and La Revue du Vin de France (then Bettane/Desseauve) in whose 1999 guide it was placed on a par with 94, 95 & 96 with a favourable mention for Riesling. Indeed I don't recall many doubters at the time and there were a lot of other enthusiasts.

Here you go......>

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/alainchateau.htm

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/varennes.htm

Here you go......>

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/alainchateau.htm

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/varennes.htm

For some reason, the Alain Château link only appears when I click on "quote". It is much more informative of the contemporary situation than the historical link. I repeat in case it does the disappearing act again - http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/alainchateau.htm .

Thanks, Bob.

Tim, as usual I try to look here. This is where I found the link.

http://www.ablegrape.com/en/help.html#faq2