Yesterday I stopped by Chambers Street where Jasmine Hirsch was conducting a tasting of three Hirsch wines. It was refreshing to meet someone so unjaded, who answered every question at considerable length, borne by enthusiasm. The winery is near the ocean, where temperatures are cooler, but, according to Jasmine, the sun comes down vertically instead of at an angle, so sugar levels can be on the high side when the time comes to pick. Naturally, this is reflected in the alcohol levels.
2007 Hirsch Vineyards Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 14.5% $54.99
Expensive because made in minuscule amounts. Attractive mineral and white flower aromas. Rich mouth feel, reasonably good acidity, but a little too much alcohol "burn" for my taste. Tropo dough.
2008 Hirsch Vineyards The Bohan-Dillon Pinot Noir 14.3% $33.99
From young (5 year old) vines. Jammy nose of blueberries, iodine and tar. Sweetness is a bit candied and, again, there is too much heat. My least favorite of the three, and no bargain.
2007 Hirsch Vineyards Sonoma M Pinot Noir 13.9% $51.99
70 to 80% of this comes from 18-30 year old vines. Aroma is also jammy, but tastes very balanced, with good acidity and lovely sweet fruit. A mix of brash and finesse, with its own character, a pinot that does not try to be a Burg. While this is fine and should age gracefully, I am not sure about the price tag when, for just a little more, I can point my pinot dollars at a paradigmatic Beaune like the Lafarge Aigrots. OK, I just said this was not a Burg, but the bucks are fungible (and limited).