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WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

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Dale Williams

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WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Dale Williams » Fri Dec 04, 2009 12:10 pm

Last night SOBER met at my place. Betsy made a nice meal, and we had some cheeses from a new place in Bronxville. I set up my wine station on the washer and dryer so no one could spy the wines being served blind, the basement is at a nice holding temp of about 60 right now.

My notes are even more rudimentary than useful, instead of my usual stream of consciousness scribblings I was making notes when I went down for next flight.

As people arrived we had a non-blind wine, the 1997 Philipponnat "Clos des Goisses" Champagne Brut. I liked this quite a lot, although someone commented on the softness for Clos des Goisses. Citrus and green apple, a chalky/stony minerality. This is pretty much a drink now, but a fun drink now! Wish I had gotten another one or two at Posner's closeout. B+

On to the doubleblind (but not for me) wines

Flight 1 (with a gingery seafood risotto)

1989 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling Vendange Tardive
I got to give Gilman credit. His guesses in order were "Alsace", "Vendange Tardive", "Trimbach" and "1989" Really lovely wine, maybe my WOTN, long, precise, focused. Good acidity, big on palate, citrus and a bit of petrol. A-/A

1990 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling Vendange Tardive
Several thought this German. More apparent sweetness (though still basically dry), quite minerally, long. Some people liked it much less than the 1989, but for me they were pretty close. I thought lovely. A-

We paused from our blind festivities to make a toast to the hostess, as today is Betsy's birthday, and the actual party isn't till next week. So I poured the 1959 Marques de Murrieta Ygay Gran Reserva. Perfect label so I assume recent release, the gunky cork is clearly original. Showing well and quite young, midbodied with a slightly lifted nose. Red fruits accented with spice and citrus zest. A-

Flight 2
1985 Phelps "Backus" Cabernet Sauvignon
Craig quickly said both wines from same producer. John went Cal Cab. The Backus got general approval around table, solid black plum and currants, big dose of mint/eucalyptus, resolving tannins. A-/B+

1987 Phelps "Eisele" Cabernet Sauvignon
This provoked some debate, some feeling it was too woody. Certainly suffers from being served next to the Backus, riper wine that is maybe entering decline. But served by itself I would have been happy with it. B

Flight 3
I served this just before the beef in Barolo (well, actually beef in Barbaresco) made it to the table, to keep from giving hint. Initial guesses from nose centered on Cabernet, and then Sangiovese. Once they were on Nebbiolo, they quickly got which was Barbaresco and which Barolo, and vintage. Beef was served with potatoes and crispy kale.

1985 Prunotto "Rabaja" Barbaresco
Nose is not very Nebbioloish, dark fruits, leather. On palate more apparent- redder fruits, tar (remember, not blind for me, so I'm looking for this), resolved tannins. B+

1985 Marcarini "Brunate" Barolo
A little VA, bigger, red and black fruits, good length, still some tannin. No hurry on this one. B+

Flight 4
1971 Renato Ratti "Marcenasco" Barolo
My intention was to open to check for corkiness and let these slowly oxygenate. But when I went to open this just before guests arrived, cork was like sawdust. I decanted through a filter, and a rather foul smelling light color browning wine came out. The bottle had more sediment that I have ever seen other than MAYBE a VP. Since a couple people couldn't make it, I had decided to skip flight 5, but added back in as I expected this to be undrinkable. But lo and behold, when I went down for the first flight, the color had deepened. And the foul smell had blown off. And by time it was served (about 3 hours after opening) it was a perfectly nice mature Barolo. Good acids, red and black cherries, wet moss, tar. The miracle bottle. F on opening, B+/A- later.

1971 F. Rinaldi Barolo
I didn't actually write anything down for this other than "some VA" , I know I thought it a pleasant mature Barolo, but preferred the Ratti. B

Flight 5
1983 Drouhin "Clos des Mouches" Beaune
I said it was a much maligned vintage, and 1983 Burgundy was quickly guessed. John went Pommard and then Beaune, and got the CdM. Craig said he got a little rot, to me I couldn't find it. A nice bowl of cherries with a bit of cedar and dirt. Great showing for the vintage. B+/A-

1989 Drouhin Charmes-Chambertin
This was servicable, but maybe my least favorite red of the night. Clearly Burgundy (even to those tasting blind), ripe, low acid, a bit short, with a slight horsey note. OK, but the 1er cru kicked the GC's butt. B-

Flight 6
1963 Warres Vintage Port
Mark and I had each gotten this at a good price recently from Pops, so he wasn't allowed guesses. I think initial guesses were in 70s, but overall they got vintage quickly (producer, not so fast). Fig paste, spices, nice if not profound. B+

1972 Mayacamas Late Harvest Zinfandel
It was kinda funny because at first Mark thought this was the port, and had a "uh oh I own this?" look on his face. Several people thought it was port, but then Craig said late harvest Cali Cab. Pretty close! This is an interesting and kind of weird wine, a changing palette of herb notes- one minute oregano, then mint,. then green tobacco leaf, etc. All over a fruit base of raisins and ripe plums with some cocoa. B

I had shocked everyone by serving no Bordeaux! Fun night, most of the wines showed as well as I could have hoped, fun people to host.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Mark Golodetz

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Mark Golodetz » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:44 am

What a great tasting. For those who haven't had the pleasure of dinner and wine at Dale's house, they are missing something pretty remarkable. The wines are alwaysincredibly carefully chosen, and the food sublime.

Pretty much in agreement with your notes, but I preferred the Marcarini to you definitely an A- and borderline A.

One of my favorite wines last night was that little Spanish number you sneaked in. Thank you again for the lovely Ygay, and again Happy Birthday to Betsy.
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Oliver McCrum

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Oliver McCrum » Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:34 am

Good lord.
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Tim York » Sat Dec 05, 2009 5:46 am

What a line-up! I'm very envious. How did the mature Ygay fare against gingery seafood risotto? That's a counter-intuitive pairing.
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Oswaldo Costa » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:26 am

Happy birthday Betsy!
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by David M. Bueker » Sat Dec 05, 2009 10:36 am

Great night hosted by great people. I wish I could have been at that table!

I had forgotten that Betsy and Laura nearly share a birthday (Laura is 12/1 though her party is today). We should do a combined celebration some time. Happy birthday Betsy!
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Dale Williams » Sat Dec 05, 2009 5:36 pm

Mark, always enjoyable hosting you. Betsy wasn't very happy with the risotto, and felt the beef got a little dried out. Both probably my fault, as my estimates of when we'd be serving were wildly off. Looking back, I certainly liked the Marcarini better than the Prunotto, so somewhere my notes went a tad astray. Unlike usual notes, these weren't exactly contemperaneous, as I was trying not to influence guessing, and making a scribble when in basement for next flight. I love our little house, but no way to keep blind bottles on same floor- kitchen would get too hot. The Ygay was grand, and even held up overnight (and I bought because of your comments when I said I liked the 59 Vina Real, so thanks!).

Tim, I think everyone had finished their risotto when we toasted Betsy with the Ygay, so no clue! We'd had this risotto recently with Chardonnay, and I asked her to do it again but up the ginger to match the Riesling, which it did reasonably well.

On her behalf thanks for good wishes.

And belated Happy Birthday to Laura!
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Michael Malinoski

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Re: WTN: SOBER@ my place-Piedmont, Alsace, CA, Burgundy, etc

by Michael Malinoski » Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:02 pm

Great tasting, Dale.

I love the '90 Trimbach CFE VT and would love an opportunity to compare to the '89. What a treat that must have been, along with everything else!

Michael

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