Open Mike: Cahors, the original Malbec.

Malbec from Argentine has conquered the world. However, Forumites here probably know that its historical home is in Cahors in central France where it has been grown for at least a thousand years but they may not have had much chance of drinking the “real thing”. I hope that this Open Mike will motivate people to change that.

Cahors is capable of making wines every bit as fine as those from Mendoza at the top level but they have a more austere character, which renders them wines more for connoisseurs than for more casual drinkers. They are leaner, more austere and linear in shape on the palate with marked tannins and acidity and a lot of flavours like tar and liquorice complementing tangy savoury fruit whereas Mendoza Malbec brings rich, sweet fruit to the fore on a thicker texture. At the lower levels, the Atlantic climatic influence makes the wines less reliable than those of Mendoza and their higher levels of acidity and drier tannins gives them a less popular profile; nevertheless I have met some delicious Cahors at around €5/bottle and I hope to unearth some more during this OM.

History

Cahors has had a chequered history and can now be described as an obscure appellation; a good choice of its wines is therefore not very easy to find even here in Francophile Brussels and Wallonia.

In the Middle Ages and through to the early 18th century, Cahors was one of the most prestigious wines in Europe and was even referred to as “the wine of kings”. This was in large part due to the qualities of the Malbec grape (known in Cahors as Auxerrois) which is strong in mauves and blues giving exceptionally deep and sustained colour (hence its nickname “the black wine”) and which has exceptional properties for resisting oxidation. The latter was very important at a time when most other wine was oxidised to some degree when put on sale. The development of bottling and cork closure technology in the 18th century reduced this advantage for Cahors by allowing its competitors to be better able to combat oxidation. By the same time, the Bordelais with their major seaport situated downstream along the Lot and Garonne had become able to stifle Cahors’ water borne trade to the benefit of their own wines. The misfortunes did not end there because Cahors was badly hit by oidium and the phylloxera bug in the second half of the 19th century and most of the vineyard area was not replanted. To give an idea of the devastation, 58,000 hectares were planted with vines, mostly Malbec, in 1866 on the eve of the phylloxera outbreak but, by the Second World War, the vineyard and particularly Malbec had virtually disappeared.

In 1947 some enterprising spirits started replanting Malbec and in 1951 Cahors became VDQS. The devastating frosts of 1956 were a bad setback but in 1971 Cahors obtained AOC status with some 440 hectares planted. The renaissance of Cahors has since been quite spectacular; some 4,500 hectares are now planted and there are a number of excellent estates, such as Château du Cèdre, Clos Triguedina, Cosse Maisonneuve, Château Lamartine, Château Lagrézette, etc. The appellation remains, however, little known even in France and little exported.

Present quality

I have a sense that, in spite of the progress made, quality could be still higher. One of the problems identified by Michel Bettane, a leading French wine critic, is that the berries are often allowed to become too big which compromises quality; there are small berry clones in Mendoza which the Cadurciens (the local name for Cahors’ inhabitants) wish to (re)introduce. However, it will necessarily be many years before that move starts to have any noticeable impact. Another problem for me is the fondness of many estates, including most of the above, for new oak which, for me, spoils the wines for a good 7-8 years from the vintage; however many Argentinian Malbecs are far worse in this respect with a strong undertow of vanilla and caramel.

The vineyard area and its terroirs

The Cahors vineyard is situated along the meandering banks of the river Lot in an area roughly 60 km long and 30 km wide. It is about equidistant from the Atlantic, Mediterranean and Pyrenees. It enjoys an oceanic climate but with less precipitation than Bordeaux and warm autumn winds which help the maturity of the relatively late ripening Malbec (early October harvests).

There is considerable complexity of soil types lying in three naturally terraced steps from the Lot up the valley sides to the plateau. The lowest terraces give the most supple and fruity wines, the mid terraces give more structured wines and the top terraces together with the calcareous scree provide the richest and most age-worthy wines. The calcareous “Causse” plateau lying above 300 metres with a clay and marl mix enjoys bigger temperatures swings causing later maturity of the grapes and wines with less flesh but more finesse.

Grape Varieties

Appellation rules impose a minimum of 70% Malbec in Cahors, the balance being made up by Merlot and/or Tannat. The round softness of Merlot is considered desirable to make some less ambitious cuvées more accessible and some of these blends can be very attractive yet conserving Cahors character (see Solis below). A much higher proportion of Malbec is found in the more ambitious cuvées, often 100%. The use of Tannat is apparently receding; it is hard for me to see what it contributes as Malbec is already quite a tannic variety.

The commercial outlook

The Cadurciens are dazzled by the commercial success of Mendoza’s Malbec and wish to benefit by association; they are pushing the mention of “Malbec” on their labels and in some cases the word “Cahors” is almost invisible. This commercial thrust is not going to be easy. Mendoza Malbec enjoys a much more reliably luminous and sunny climate, is capable of decent quality at much higher yields (80hl/ha versus 50hl/ha) and benefits from much lower labour costs in the vineyard.

I am convinced that it would be a mistake for Cahors to try to produce Mendoza look-alikes because in their conditions they are doomed to make an inferior product at equal prices. They should concentrate on making better wines in their own style. This is a style which will never be as popular as that of Mendoza but should be capable of securing a niche market amongst serious wine lovers willing to pay fair prices for wines of personality and quality, particularly in Europe.

At the top level, there is an admirable initiative under way to promote excellence through a back label “Cahors Excellence” or “Charte de Qualité” (Quality Charter) which has been instituted from 1999. At the end of the 90s, a study of terroirs was carried out to determine which plots had the potential to be classified as “crus”. On these plots, growers may sign up for the Quality Charter, which is a unique initiative in France. The requirements for obtaining the back label are quite stringent. I do not know whether this initiative will fly; only one of the bottles in my cellar has this back label.

What to look for in Cahors wine?

I suggest that forumites concentrate on seeing whether the Cahors which they can find lives up to the role of providing distinct and austerely classy personality. To give an idea of what I think that personality should be, I provide here a couple of TNs, one of a more prestige level Cahors and another from budget level; for contrast I also provide a TN on about the most impressive Mendoza Malbec which has passed my way.

From April 2008

Château Lamartine AOC Cahors “Expression” 1999 – Alc. 13% - (€ 21 ex cellar for 2005).

This wine is currently made from 100% old Malbec vines and is matured for 20 months in new Tronçais and Allier barrels.
C: A superbly deep carmine purple with no signs at all of bricking.
N: Dark fruit, sour cherry, wet leather and some liquorice.
P: Virile with austere splendour and darkly fruity with all youthful exaggerations and rough edges fined down; quite smooth mouth-feel on entry and mid-palate building up to a more austere, noble, structured but slightly bitter climax at the rear of the palate with good after-glow. After 9 years the new oak aromas which I found on the highly promising 2005 have become perfectly integrated to the point of being scarcely detectable; 16.5/20 with still some + potential, I think.

Splendid though this wine is I doubt whether its typically Cahors style will ever be very popular. This is a commercial difficulty which the Cahors region has to face. I do hope that they will not be tempted by dumbing down.

From May 2009

I liked Cahors Solis 2004 – Matthieu Cosse – Alc.13% - (€8 approx) – 85% Malbec, 10% Merlot, 5% Tannat - at a recent tasting sufficiently to buy some bottles but I enjoyed in even more at home with food. At a modest price it conveys what Cahors is about; savoury fruit with a marked wet leather tang and touches of tar and liquorice together with lively acidity and firm tannins; much more to my taste than the majority of sweetly fruited and toffee laced Argentinian Malbec at a similar price but I am probably in a minority here; 16/20+ QPR.

From April 2008 a succinct TN from the tasting on Valentré bridge during the International Malbec Days in Cahors –

Fabre & Montmayou, Mendoza
Gran Reserva 2005 shared with Le Cèdre and GC shared the honour of being my wine of the show; nice leathery notes in the dark fruit aromas and a smooth velvety linear yet deep palate with power, distinction and elegance; 17.5/20. http://www.domainevistalba.com/internac ... index.html
This estate is French owned and I do not think it fanciful to attribute some of the wine’s elegance and linearity to this fact.

Bob here, 1.30 am MT. Thanks for the bedtime reading, I was just off to get a cuppa tea!! Very good write-up Tim, (is the heading OK, the ";" after Cahors??).
Funny, you should mention Lamartine. Just purchased the entry-level malbec 2 days ago. The Fabre & Montmayou, Mendoza, I have been eying that one downtown. Did not know about the French connection.
Hopefully we will get some good TNs. I have one ready to go tomorrow so great timing eh.

Nite!

Excellent write-up, Tim, very informative and admirably judicious. Will drum up a Cahors at the very least as a way to say thanks.

You mentioned the competitive advantages held by Mendoza - I wonder if Cahors can use natural acidity as a selling point (for the few who care).

Tim, is this the famous bridge in Cahors?

http://about-france.com/photos/cahors.jpg

Tim, is this the famous bridge in Cahors?

http://about-france.com/photos/cahors.jpg

There's something wrong with that photo, Bob. I think it may be the Valentré bridge taken from the North but printed the wrong way round. Here is the link to my photos all from the South side viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15303&p=128351&hilit=+cahors#p128351 and you'll see that there are no buttresses next to the towers, unlike in your link.

sorry; never had an argentine malbec i could abide a second smell of much less a second taste. mr. open seems clearly to prefer these sweet, usually oaky quintessential new world wines. too bad cahors is so tannic and austere that it will never catch on. i'm sure bordeaux worries about that too; and burgundy. how can they possibly compete with the wonderfully lush new world fruit and oak? not buying it. btw, the cahors people booked a US trip in sept and stopped in chicago where i got to taste about 80 wines or so. there is a wide variety of styles; and most are very well made. some really outstanding wines as well.

btw, the cahors people booked a US trip in sept and stopped in chicago where i got to taste about 80 wines or so. there is a wide variety of styles; and most are very well made. some really outstanding wines as well.

Do you have any TNs from that line-up, David? What was the general impression of the other tasters?

I have been a big fan of Clos La Coutale for quite a few years and have posted various notes here. Here is the most recent release, a softer wine than I expected.

WTN: `07 Clos La Coutale, V Bernede.

Last vintage I tasted was the`05 which had very good grip and structure. I used to cellar most Coutale reds for a couple of years but this was ready by all accounts.

13.1% alc, good natural cork, $18 Cdn, opened one hr but not decanted. No sediment noted. Good distribution in Alberta over the years.

Color. Inky black, rich purple tones on rim.

Nose. Currants, herbal (tarragon?), cherry, earthy, black fruits naturally.

Palate. Initial entry thought was soft, low tannins, juicy acidity. Blueberry and cherry to forefront, not a big structured wine this time around. "Smooth..not the old rustic style" from across the table. Plenty of merlot ripeness here, a different style than what I am used too. Not exactly what I expected?
The wine had a mild bitter streak without any food. Went well with pork tenderloin and a single duck leg!

Last year, I posted a note on the `03 that I had cellared for 3 yrs.

Served this `03 blind to the servers at the Grill last evening!!

TN: `03 Clos la Coutale, Cahors (south west) France.

Color is a dark purple, medium intense centre. Very interesting nose and lots of thoughts..."raisin pie", "smells like the mochachino I had this morning". I found earth, herbs and tons of blackberry. Cherries and "cigar box" were good highlights. This has opened nicely!
My inital mouthfeel entry thoughts were soft tannins, earth, good structure. Comments around the bar area included cherries, raspberry, sour fruit, long finish, plums, black pepper. Many thought Argentina as they know my preference (!!) although Anastasia was close with Provence.

hi tim - i went with two other wine tasters from here in A2. we all thought the wines were generally quite good. the consensus favorite was ch. de hauterive - prestige '07 - a truly classy wine with lots of fruit and modest oak. the wines were stylistically diverse. some had no oak and lighter fruit - some no oak and richer riper fruit. those with oak varied from just a touch to too much. some were big ripe wines; some balanced and elegant. a few were rustic or flawed. malbec content was typically 80%; but quite a few were 100%. ch. vincens had good wines - an '02 that americans would love and an '06 prestige with some licorish and great length but also fairly tannic. dom. du prince '05 'lou prince' would also be popular here in the US - seriously oaky/fruity. ch. st. sernin also good - esp the '02 la tour st. sernin - almost ready and quite elegant with light oak. ch. de rouffiac l'exception '06 was pretty international and quite expensive but also quite good. croix du mayne was one of my favorites as always - the '07 is balanced and elegant and just nice! also loved ch. la cocustarelle esp. the grand cuvee prestige '06 - drinks well with length and lots of fruit and balance. also fond of ch. lamartine - these were somewhat more youthful and tannic but real quality - the cuvee particuliere was almost bordeaux-like. ch. de chambert, ch. paillas, ch. famafy, dom. le bout du lieu were all good as well. ch. de cenac had two wildly different cuvees - the eulalie '05 was all new oak and very intense and international. the prestige '06 was tannic but very classy with lots of fruit and little or no oak and will be very good indeed someday. i haven't mentioned the ok or not up to snuff chateau.

Thanks for that, David. A very interesting survey showing diversity of style and "élevage"; a lot of producers there sound quite heavy handed with the oak treatment. Interestingly few of those producers are on my radar screen; Lamartine and Chambert are two exceptions. It seems that I need to widen my horizons but can I find them?

WTN: `07 Clos La Coutale, V Bernede.


TN: `03 Clos la Coutale, Cahors (south west) France.

Neither of those sound very typical Cahors, Bob. 2003 is understandable with the great heat which took all French wines several hundred km to the South. I loved the exuberant and caressing fruit of the 07 barrel samples which I tasted on the bridge but maybe I missed a weakness of structure. I'll try and pick up one in bottle; I think our local supermarket has Crozes de Py, which did an excellent 05 and 06, at <€6/bottle.

tim, probably not. one of the big reasons for the trip was for these producers to FIND distribution in the US. anyway, the quality is there and with a few exceptions the style is distinctly european - not at all new worldly in general.

This opened earlier in the week andreminds me so much of the style of Cahors that got me interested in it all those years ago. After the rag-tag bag of Cahors I've experienced since those early days (around 1990), this reminds me of why the wine made an impression on me in my early years of wine interest.

2000 Château Lamartine Cahors - France, Southwest France, Cahors (11/30/2009)
From a half-bottle

Still a very youthful deep purple colour.

On the nose there are savoury black fruits / black olive - even venturing to freshly cut grass.

The palate replicates the savoury aspect from the nose, with firm but subtle fruit and supporting tannins that give good grip without taking over. Acidity is subtle and in balance with the rest of the wine. The black olive / herb accented finish has decent length and is escorted off the premises by the tannins, leaving the mouth watering for more.

A definite winner for me - a modest wine, well-balanced and with plenty of character. Bravo.

Hi,

I'll not be posting tasting notes, because quite honestly they aren't good enough. When I last went tasting there, I was with friends, and they weren't really interested in waiting all the time while I scribbled away.

However, as Tim touched on, Cahors (like Gaillac to its west) has something of an identity crisis. Everyone's heard of the "Black wine of Cahors". many fewer know that it was a cooked down wine, sold to Bordeaux to increase the colour, interest and tannin of their own wines, which at the time were nearer rosé than red hence the english name "Claret" (from the Bordelais "clairet" ) But I expect you all know that.

So although a few growers are now making a "Black Wine" again, the only ones I've tasted are more "interesting" than excellent. You rather get the feeling that they are going though a marketing exercise rather than trying to create something of mass interest.

To come back to the identity crisis. As Tim said, the Malbec grape (Cot or Auxerrois, as they call it there) gives tannic wines when grown on the Causses, where the stressful environment gives the potential to make the best wine. However, also as Tim said, the chequered recent history has meant that many growers (as elsewhere) haven't made very good wine. This is the sort of wine that finds its way into the typical French supermarket, and (just as in neighbouring Bergerac) given it a filthy reputation, that is as inaccurate and justified at the same time as any generalisation is. The wines made for relatively rapid consumption are often poor thin things, with too much acidity, often too much oak, and honestly not very much interest. You see them under co-operative labels at around €4 to €5 a bottle. these are often the wines from vines grown on gravelly alluvlal soil beside the river.

Better estates, up on the Causses are making, very often, some really good wines, but - and here's the rub - these wines also have high tannins and acidity along with plenty of fruit - just like top Bordeaux, perhaps even more so. So, just like good Bordeaux wines, they need considerable aging. If a minor classed growth Bordeaux needs 10 years in a good year to come round, so does a good Cahors. And who, nowadays is prepared to take a wine, as cheap as these wines are, seriously enough to age it for 10 years? Practically no-one. So they get drunk far too young, when they are as tannic and acid as any too young Bordeaux. But this is where reputations come in. Your average wine drinker in France - around 95% of all Cahors is consumed here, drinks a young Bordeaux and thinks "hmmm it's Bordeaux, so it MUST taste nice. If I don't much like it, it's because I'm not sophisticated enough". Drinking an equally young Cahors, he thinks "Ah well, serves me right for not buying a Bordeaux".

So what can these growers do? Make wines that reflect the true potential and character of the grape when grown there, or make wines that are ready earlier but don't have the potential for excellence they should have.

I have to disagree about Tim's rating of Lagrézette, It's a winery that has had money thrown at it (the owner is MD of Cartiers in Paris) but I don't think it's got much soul. On the other hand, the Verhaeghe Family at le Cèdre make stunning wines. Other estates I rate highly are La Caminade, (especially their top wines) Ch Eugénie (again for their best Cuvées) Triguedena's Prince Probus is the wine that the Review des Vins de France tasted along with "another bordeaux" in a classic mistake that was both insulting to Cahors (given their bruising history with Bordeaux) and idiotic. It's probably the Cahors that has the highest reputation here in France. Needs 10 to 15 years aging in a good year. I've heard very good things about Ch La Fage, though never taken the opportunity to visit. Same goes for the Château Les Hauts d'Aglan. From the point of view of people living outside France, most of these wines are sadly entirely without interest as they are small producers, whose wines virtually never get exported.

A bit of a ramble, I'm afraid.

Ian
Interesting and thoughtful comments - ideal for an open mike

FWIW I'm one of those rare freaks that enjoys cellaring wine. Mostly I do it for the aged characters offered by mature (or even over-mature) wine, but if truth be told, also for the comfort there are some very nice (and not always expensive) wines improving slowly in the cellar.

So what can these growers do? Make wines that reflect the true potential and character of the grape when grown there, or make wines that are ready earlier but don't have the potential for excellence they should have.

For me I'd hope them to trust in what they do, to do it as well as they can, hoping that their time will come, when drinkers seek red wines that aren't plummy, rich and soft, with a heavy toast oak influence.

As you'll see from my note above, I was very taken with what is really nothing but a simple regional wine, yet it had great individuality and (this is shocking for me to say as I usually steer well clear of the phrase) seemed to reflect it's 'terroir' without trying to dress it up.

I guess I'll be a vocal supporter of a particular (traditional) style, in large part because Cahors (along with Ch Musar, Penfolds Grange & Bin 2 and a very impressive Macon wine I've never rediscovered) played a major part in awakening my interest in wine. I'm a happy bigot in terms of what I think Cahors wine should be

regards

Ian

Lots of good points there, Ian. Let me me add my two cents worth to one or two.

However, as Tim touched on, Cahors (like Gaillac to its west) has something of an identity crisis. Everyone's heard of the "Black wine of Cahors". many fewer know that it was a cooked down wine, sold to Bordeaux to increase the colour, interest and tannin of their own wines, which at the time were nearer rosé than red hence the english name "Claret" (from the Bordelais "clairet" )

I'm not sure that the cooked style was universal for Cahors in the pre-phylloxera era. For many centuries Cahors had a high reputation which stood on its own. It was only by later on, (I think 17th/18th century) that Bordeaux succeeded in stifling enough of the Cahors trade for it to become necessary to sell the wine to fortify Bordeaux clairet. Even then Cahors was apparently still in demand in high places.

So although a few growers are now making a "Black Wine" again, the only ones I've tasted are more "interesting" than excellent. You rather get the feeling that they are going though a marketing exercise rather than trying to create something of mass interest.

I agree. I'll look out a TN on Triguedina's gimmicky New Black Wine and post if later.

Better estates, up on the Causses are making, very often, some really good wines, but - and here's the rub - these wines also have high tannins and acidity along with plenty of fruit - just like top Bordeaux, perhaps even more so. So, just like good Bordeaux wines, they need considerable aging.

So what can these growers do? Make wines that reflect the true potential and character of the grape when grown there, or make wines that are ready earlier but don't have the potential for excellence they should have.

That is the rub. However, Cahors has the benefit of a dynamic local Syndicate who, in their words at least, seem aware of the need to promote Cahors as a quality terroir wine. The Quality Charter initiative, if it flies, is also going in this direction.

I have to disagree about Tim's rating of Lagrézette, It's a winery that has had money thrown at it (the owner is MD of Cartiers in Paris) but I don't think it's got much soul.

I agree with your assessment of Lagrézette. I listed it because it always appears in journalists' hit-parades of Cahors "top wines". I have a TN on one which I will look out.

Triguedena's Prince Probus is the wine that the Review des Vins de France tasted along with "another bordeaux" in a classic mistake that was both insulting to Cahors (given their bruising history with Bordeaux) and idiotic. It's probably the Cahors that has the highest reputation here in France. Needs 10 to 15 years aging in a good year.

I have subscribed to the RVF for over 10 years but I missed that blunder. When was it, Ian?

Prince Probus is one of the wines which I find too oaky when young but it can be very fine with some decent ageing. I'll look out my note on the 1995 and post it later. I also have some bottles of 1994 and will try to crack one soon.

BTW Ian, you should try writing TNs. It's not so difficult. Many here write very good succinct TNs. Mine sometimes fall into the trap of being too discursive.

Ian, your comments are very well thought out. I have never visited Cahors but have been a fan of the wines that are sometimes available here in W Canada. I am never going to come across most of the wines mentioned here (unless I visit the area) so find this this OM very enlightening. I have a few here..Lamartine, Croix du Mayne are two I intend to open so hope I can join this knowledgeable club of posters!!!
I asked a few of the staff at DeVines downtown which Argentinian malbec would come close to a Cahors but retreated amidst vocal fisticuffs!!!!

BTW Ian, you should try writing TNs. It's not so difficult. Many here write very good succinct TNs. Mine sometimes fall into the trap of being too discursive.

Tim
I'd interpreted Ian H's comment as being linked to not taking notes at the time - hence why the TN's he had weren't of a detail he was happy posting. However I'll definitely agree with you that TNs are warmly encouraged and there's no 'gold standard' to achieve. All that's needed is an honest assessment in a style that works for the person writing them.
regards
Ian

Ian H's excellent post mentions several wines, examples of which I have tasted fairly recently. I re-run my TNs below with one or two further comments.

This notes from 2007 illustrates how an initially oaky and tough "prestige" Cahors integrates after a dozen years to become some very fine.

Clos Triguedina Cahors AOC Prince Probus 1995 - 12.5% alc (approx. € 27 for 2005).

I think that this wine is more Cahors than “Malbec” and it bears little resemblance, except in its density, to typical “Malbec” coming out of Argentina, in particular.

C: Very dense deep red with no bricking at the rim.
N: At first cedar and cigar box ( my goodness! another oak bomb!) but slowly notes of sour dark fruit, dry leather and some 90% bitter chocolate came up and integrated the wood which then provides an agreeable if still present element of complexity.
P: Subdued at first but opening up. Considerable weight and density of fruit and body with a classically balanced shape on the palate (quiet entry building up towards the rear of the palate but with perhaps an over rapid diminuendo on the finish); firmly velvety with quite marked acidity and tannic structure, similar aromas to the nose but with the wood more in the background and some tar and mint notes on the finish.

This wine is not a crowd pleaser but I liked its distinguished complexity and upright austerity (a bit like the landscape in Quercy from where it comes). I guess that it would have been intolerably oaky, for me, in its youth. I have read in the French wine press that most Cahors from the mid-90s are ageing badly. Well, this one isn’t and, in my view, would benefit from a few more years. (I did not score this in September but re-reading the note, I would say 16.5/20+++.)

Recent vintages of Prince Probus are reported to be derived 100% from 50 year old Malbec vines (called Auxerrois in the region). The estate as a whole is planted with 75% Malbec, 20% Merlot and 5% Tannat; the lesser cuvées must therefore be considerably dumbed down (softened) by Merlot. I do not know whether there was any Merlot or Tannat in the 1995 blend but I guess very little of the former.


On Sept 27, 2009 I opened a bottle of New Black wine made by the "traditional" method. In the light of the soft results, I wonder whether this technique was not used to tame Cahors tannins and acidity in the days before bottling and cork closure technology rendered possible prolonged ageing.

Cahors “The New Black Wine” 1997 – Clos Triguedina – Alc. 13% - (current vintages c. €50)
This wine is made by a supposedly traditional method whereby some of the bunches and must are heated to 55°C. The colour was closer to deep ruby than black, indeed much less close to black than the Aglianico (opened the same week). I was expecting a challenging wine like a lot of good Cahors or the Aglianico, so it came as quite as surprise to find this one easy drinking; there was medium body, some nice dark fruit (a lot of prune) with a cooked and somewhat candied touch with smooth mouth-feel and structure and even a certain elegance; 15.5/20 but not worth the current price. (Turning up my notes of last year’s Malbec fête, I seem to have been more impressed by the youthful showing of 2004 and 2005 but I still don’t think them worth the price.)


My note from April 4, 2009 deals with the controversial Château Lagrézette. It was not a bad wine but not very Cahors. I have not tried their top cuvée, Le Pigeonnier, nor am I likely to at its price around €90/bottle; all reviewers speak of its lavish oak and I guess it needs a good 10 years to integrate, if ever.

Cahors 1999 – Château Lagrézette – Alc. 13.5% (approx. €20 for 2005) showed typical Cahors aromas of stewed dark fruit, thyme, tar, wet leather and liquorice with quite full body, good mouth-fill and fair length together with an element of fat and sweetness of fruit, smooth tannins and polished patina which are less typical. The back label gives the clue; 22% Merlot, blended with 76% Malbec and 2% Tannat, bring the fat and sweetness and 18 to 22 months in new oak barrels contribute the patina, which after 10 years is not obtrusive. So a nice wine, albeit with its typicity somewhat dumbed down; 16/20. (Lagrézette has the reputation of being a standard bearer of the “modern” style of Cahors with Michel Rolland as consultant - http://www.chateau-lagrezette.tm.fr/homepage_eng.html . This wine is about third down in their hierarchy of 5 Cahors cuvées.)

BTW Ian, you should try writing TNs. It's not so difficult. Many here write very good succinct TNs. Mine sometimes fall into the trap of being too discursive.

Tim
I'd interpreted Ian H's comment as being linked to not taking notes at the time - hence why the TN's he had weren't of a detail he was happy posting.

I think that you are right, Ian. Apologies, Ian H, for misreading you.

[Jenise]

Tim, after reading this very thoughtful thread, I happened to see a Cahors at the supermarket. We see almost no Cahors here, though it's not a surprise that what little makes it into our distribution system this far north ends up at this particular market whose onstaff wine consultant is a Francophile. I have in fact seen exactly two other Cahors, both of which I bought and compared a few years ago when Cahors was a topic of conversation here. Those were a Cedre and a Combal, and the thread is here:

http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=13914&p=115728&hilit=Cahors#p115728

That experience caused me to buy another Cedre and put it away just to see what happened in a few years, but neither wine was compelling enough to make me want to buy more Cahors. I guess I, in part anyway, know it's malbec and revert to thinking of the Argentine style which I'm not a fan of.

But heck, didn't have any particular plans last night so I bought and opened this new wine to go with dinner, and it was a 2007 Clos La Coutale. I liked it a lot better than Bob did; in fact I was quite impressed. Medium bodied, maroon color, dark berry and black cherry fruit, a little violets on the nose along with some dust--I would guess this has the full load of merlot in it--some savory character, good minerality, stylish but in the traditional sense and nothing OTT, very balanced, good mouthfeel and finish, no babyfat whatsoever, no pesky oak flavors, no flaws. This wine is, in fact, just about as much elegance and satisfaction as a Bordeaux lover can have in a new release, off the shelf, $13 wine. If I needed more everyday wine (the adjective 'everyday' applies to it's cost, not it's taste, this wine outperforms it's price), I'd go back for a case.

have to disagree with ian h. and maybe others. most of the estates he mentioned i tasted at the chicago event; and did not include them in my brief report because imo they were not among the top ones. as to tirguedina in particular, my note on the probus '05 was "way too oaky and no fun in any event" - btw it spent 18 mo in entirely new oak. their entry level wine - esprit de flore - on the other hand had no oak and was pretty decent. the hit of their lineup for me was le petit clos '07. it spends one year in neutral oak and is very typical, balanced and fruity - lovely winemaking. ch. la caminade has very distinctive wines: the entry level one has NO TANNIN and a light fruity taste that is slightly off imo. the la commandery is also unique with lots of tannin, fruit and oak - it is good only imo. i'm even less crazy about eugenie - ultra light and pretty inconsequential stuff.

one sidelight is that they make some really good rose in this area. however, even though they are saignee from the red wines, they are not entitled to be called cahors. they are - dispite their obvious quality - VdP Lot. of course they are cheap as all get out; and the two i've had were delicious and distinctive.

all in all i think i like modestly priced cahor wines better than similarly priced bordeaux.

The '01 Cedre Prestige I had when Malbec was the monthly featured variety certainly piqued my interest. Rugged and rustic, but not one-dimensional. (there was some Merlot and Tannat in the blend/are these traditionally blends?). Unfortuantely all I have left are some '02 Les Laquets that most likely need a few more years.

What a wonderful thread! (though I would say Open Mic )
We see Cahors here and it is something I occasionally buy, but it never seems to get much attention.
It seems to me we consumed some lovely Cahors at Bill Spohn's place in Vancouver (gee Bill has to be 10 years ago) but my memory is not that great and I am not sure if any of us posted notes!
This whole discussion makes me want to go shopping!

Ruth