WTN: Torzi Matthews Frost Doger Shiraz 2003

Another Ozzie of moderate interestingness:

• 2003 Torzi Matthews Shiraz Frost Dodger - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (12/2/2009)
  34,60€; 14,5% abv; under Stelvin; bottle #0113. Mt. McKenzie is a frost prone area, hence the name. Made in an Appassimento-style of partly dried fruit. Despite some pleasant, interesting, refreshing, lifted and savoury aromas (partly perhaps due to 25% fermented with stems?), this is quite marked by oak and high alcohol. Full bodied, good structure with ripe but nicely noticeable tannins and moderate acidity. Long, savoury finish. Certainly an interesting take on S. Australian Shiraz - but I do wish it had less oak aromas (though I also realize that many if not not most people are much more tolerant of oak than I am).
  

Posted from CellarTracker

Interesting note, Otto, thanks for posting.

I tried this wine earlier this year and, before opening, was quite hopeful and enthused, given the producer's approach of hand harvesting, partially air drying (which seems increasingly popular in Australia - though I'm increasingly thinking is not such a good idea), basket pressing, spontaneously fermenting and no acidification (!)... most of which are not normal practise. Plus, this producer seems to have a bit of a cult following in Australia (“garagiste” set-up and all that).

I also found plenty of (sweet) oak on the nose. For me, the nose showed a possible floral lift under a mix of soft black and red fruits; but there was a pruney, near-raisin character I wasn't too keen on. Nice spice (like pepper and cinnamon) and some liquorice, and a touch of savoriness (slight charred meat/smoky note). But the palate didn't attract me with its smooth-14.5%-alcohol-and-velvety-textured-tannin mouthfeel along with firm acidity and sweet black raspberry/dark cherry/anise/clove. I did not find it particularly interesting, but nevertheless it was reasonably enjoyable.

I'd recommend it to people who want a more "sophisticated" version of the big-fruited, smooth and "sweetish" style, given that it shows firm acidity and some oak-spice- and reductive-orientated flavours. (I wonder if you'd agree with that?) Stylistically, it seems to be (at least one) direction the modern Aussie Shiraz is headed, but it's still too sweet, smooth, ripe-fruited, alcoholic and lacking in savoury/animal/earth/vegetal (i.e., non-fruit, non-oak) flavours to really grab me personally. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts along that line.

I'd recommend it to people who want a more "sophisticated" version of the big-fruited, smooth and "sweetish" style, given that it shows firm acidity and some oak-spice- and reductive-orientated flavours. (I wonder if you'd agree with that?)

Partly, yes. It is big and fruity with a dried fruit character - but like you say, it does show good acidity and such I can't equate with a smooth wine. I found it on the lively side for such a big wine and hence I thought it was moderately interesting though not really my cup of darjeeling. What I found a bit strange is that TM does this with dried fruit (so the dried fruit aromas are fully expected) whereas I tend to get stronger dried fruit aromas from the other S. Australians we have here that aren't made in in this style! Most of my problems were with the oak (structured sweetness is sometimes fine).

It is big and fruity with a dried fruit character - but like you say, it does show good acidity and such I can't equate with a smooth wine.

I know what you mean. I guess for me it's the tannic-smoothness in particular that I'm focussing on: I'd like to see a bit more tannic-grip/mouthfeel.

What I found a bit strange is that TM does this with dried fruit (so the dried fruit aromas are fully expected) whereas I tend to get stronger dried fruit aromas from the other S. Australians we have here that aren't made in in this style!

Good point! Perhaps it's the difference between ripening in a hot climate and ripening in a cooler climate (possibly with an earlier harvest?) and then drying.