Château de Beaucastel Côtes-du-Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007
Thanks to Oliver. A blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and the rest Syrah, Cinsault and the other permitted grape varieties. The least deeply coloured 2007 CdR we have tasted so far, a medium-deep, lightly purple ruby. Highly aromatic on the palate, complex, finesseful (the tannin quality in particular, as of Orange Pekoe black tea, and so finely-grained) and fairly deep on the palate, even if seemingly lighter than some (such as a Alary Cairannes we compared a week earlier). Gamy-sweaty Mourvèdre top note to harmonious red fruit and soft beef blood/black pudding with cinnamon – with a freshness reminiscent of ginger and lemon rind. Long finish. More tannic with airing. The 14.5% alcohol (labelled, may be up to half a percent higher, as is usually the case in France) is so well-integrated that one must assume the light on its feet and easy-going character of the wine is deceptive – there is tannin and extract to this! My favourite 2007 Côte-du-Rhône thus far, albeit admittedly from a stylistic rather then qualitative perspective (they are all such a success, it seems). This can be drunk now with immense pleasure, or aged thanks to its impeccable balance (the early harmony is deceptive, no reason to worry at all – but note both Oliver and my dad feel there is no reason to cellar a wine like this). Rating: 91(+/-?)
Tardieu-Laurent Côtes-du-Rhône Villages “Les Becs Fins” 2007
Virtually opaque purple-ruby-black. Tasting this for the third (and possibly last) time, I am still put off by the marzipan oak (note there apparently is no new oak here, but that it is supposed to be a blend of equal parts of Grenache and Syrah aged in foudre – and yet, every bottle smelled and tasted as this had been aged in barrique...) that makes the ripe fruit smell and taste like a very sweet cherry/morello chewing gum – at least at first. Some roasted Provençal herbs with airing, sage and a little lavender in particular, plus some black and green pepper, and a suggestion of forest floor. Slightly disintegrated acidity and rustic-hard tannin. The 14.5% alcohol (labelled) is well integrated, however. Medium length. Another successful 2007 CdR, but from a stylistic point of view, I am glad I did not buy more than a couple of sample bottles. Hard to complain given the price tag, though. Rating: 87-
Domaine Boisson Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2007
Thanks to Oliver. Deep, lightly purple ruby. Oliver was quick to point out that other bottles were more open/gave more pleasure, but also found fault with a partial overripeness to the spicy, not too bright or lively fruit. Comparatively crude roasted herbs. The lowest in alcohol content of the three at 14% that night, and yet, the least integrated (still very acceptable in this regard). Slightly rustic, dry and grainy tannin whose quality or savouriness I nonetheless preferred to the Tardieu-Laurent’s). Rather short on the finish, but there is some pepper, violet and some Provençal herbs on the aftertaste. Another fine QPR in 2007 CdR, the least expensive (if, incidentally, also the least impressive) we have tasted together so far. Rating: 86+/87?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti
