Love going to arrivage tasting unprepared – I had no idea what to expect, and came away positively surprised by what on the whole proved to be nicely precise, approachable, easy to like, early-harmonious, fresh and quite lively, elegant, all in all perhaps not particularly concentrated, serious or ageworthy wines, whose acids (not their quantity, their quality) prospective buyers/collectors may want to pay attention to. What is especially important to me, the wines for the most part reflected their respective terroirs (with the exception, but I really have not tasted enough wines to say so with certainty, Chambolle-Musigny – having said that, the Vogüé portfolio again proved the crown jewel in Max Gerstl’s selection, along in all likelihood with the one by my old favourite Rousseau).
Met vintner Henrik Möbitz there, and same as last year discussed virtually all the wines I tasted with him. His favourite portfolios, by far, were Rousseau’s and Vogüé’s. Apart from those, he expressed concerns regarding manipulative wine-making, feeling that few wines tasted as natural as he would like.
Managed to taste most if not all the reds, but only a handful of the whites this time. Notes presented alphabetically by producer, not in the order tasted.
Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Frémiets 2007
Nicely voluminous and glyceric fruit, a bit sugary, some (higher-toned) florality along with a darker (violety) nuance, faint marzipan sweetness due to otherwise not too obvious oak on the back end, medium-plus length. Rating: 89(+?)
Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champans 2007
Greater density, more serious wine, spicier, more herbs and minerality, longer. Rating: ~90
Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs 2007
Nobler and more finesseful in terms of (terroir) expression, attractive minerality and fruit, quite long and subtle on the, again – for lack of a better word – nobler finish. Well-balanced, interesting wine. Henrik told me he likes mature vintages, but finds d’Angerville’s wines difficult to interpret in their youth. Even though I find them fractionally more modern in style than when I first got to know them, I find them so much easier to interpret than e.g. Perrot-Minot’s – they are so much closer to the kind of Burgundy I grew up with. Rating: 91+
Roger Belland Santenay Charmes 2007
From a 1.15 ha plot planted in 1971. Sweet oak, some sweetness that is partly due to alcohol, fruit is lacking a bit in complexity, but hard to complain at this price. Rating: 85+?
Roger Belland Santenay Commes 2007
From a 2.2 ha plot planted in 1973. Tiny TCA muteness and bitterness from a first bottle – while I am being explained that this is impossible since their corks are chemically treated, I decide to do as the French do, give the lady my (I hope) best boyish smirk, grab the other bottle and pour myself a sample. Huge difference: fuller-flavoured than the Charmes, fruity and lightly spicy, longer. Nice QPR. Rating: 87+/88
Roger Belland Santenay Gravières 2007
Belland owns a 1.1 ha plot here. More stylish fruit (would not go so far as to claim Gravières has nobler/more “aristocratic” terroir, but it is certainly a favourite in Santenay), more precise, nicely minerally, livelier, longer. A relative standout in terms of QPR. Rating: 87+/88(+?)
Roger Belland Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot-Clos Pitois 2007
1,71 of this monopole’s 1er Cru’s 3 ha were planted with Pinot Noir in 1958. Oakier, thus nuttier and oak-spicier despite attractive fruit and nicely stony minerality underneath. Quite high in alcohol, fair enough length. More of a show-off wine (thus less to my taste and more to the taste of others), not otherwise better or worse. Rating: 87+/88(+?)
Bonneau du Martray Corton 2007
Ever since the 2005, I am looking forward to tasting not just the white, but especially also the red with anticipation. Soft grey pepper to a nicely sturdy, evenly tannic no-nonsense wine with perfectly integrated oak (as if part of the fruit, minerality and tannin). Very well-balanced, this will need a little time/patience. Depth, finesse, complexity and fruit are such that they sneak up on you, not an obvious wine, but to me much the better for it. Not sure the (relative) austerity and “straightforwardness” will please everyone (Henrik, for example, did not look too impressed, even though he is precisely the kind of sensitive, experienced taster I expected to taken with the style). Rating: 91+/92(+?)
Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2007
Nicely dense, lightly viscous yet tannic, with pretty herbs and citrusy blossoms and fruit, fairly long. Rating: 92(+?)
Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Vaudenelles 2007
Quite fruity, soft chives. A touch of nutty marzipan from the oak. Medium length. Some alcohol. Faintly rubbery. But not bad. Rating: 85+/86?
Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis En la Rue de Vergy 2007
More oak spice and roastedness. Some complexity underneath. Longer. Rating: 88
Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 2007
Nobler terroir expression (one of my favourite 1er Crus), typical soil notes, greater depth (not quite one expects, though), longer (fairly long). But not too fruity. Rating: 89+?
Bruno Clair Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2007
From vines planted in 1913. Fruitier, yet longer, higher-toned, brighter. Greater roundness, more positive, more “simple” but tight (both in a good way). Fair enough body, not at all overdone, good length. The terroir/soil notes are so integrated as to seem subdued in comparison, but this has the volume to improve with bottle age. Having said that, it is a pleasure to taste now. Rating: 91+?
Guyon Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007
Strongly fruity, Riesling-like in its combination with its acid backbone. Short oak spice finish. But nice enough as long as it lasts. Rating: 84+/85?
Guyon Chorey-Lès-Beaune Les Bons Ores 2007
Nuttier yet more integrated oak, more peppery fruit, a bit longer. Ultimately too oaky compared to e.g. the 2005 best buy of which I opened a bottle the following evening. Rating: 87(+?)
Guyon Savigny-Lès-Beaunes Les Peuillets 2007
Noticeably more complex and concentrated, showing more of an old-viney core, but also simply more spicy and earthy, with softly salty minerality, absorbing its dose of oak with greater ease, longer on the finish, too. Rating: 88+/89(+?)
Guyon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Herbues 2007
Typical Nuits steel notes and minerality, but no more fruit, slightly dustier tannin, a bit less long. Rating: ~88
Guyon Vosne-Romanée 2007
Riper, red-fruitier, less serious perhaps, less tight, more easy-going, with more alcohol showing. Some underlying cedary oak spice, fairly long. Rating: 87+/88
Guyon Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes de Mazières 2007
More grip and again, what seems like an old-vinier core. Greater complexity and depth, more spice and soft metals, longer. But not too voluminous. Drinking well already. Rating: ~90?
Guyon Vosne-Romanée Les Brûlées 2007
Nobler terroir, nice earth interwoven with relatively tight fruit and just faintly nutty oak. Good length. There is good potential for harmony here. Rating: ~90(+?)
Guyon Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 2007
Tighter, more intense, more metal notes, deeper core, salty minerality (not necessarily more attractive in terms of terroir expression, though possibly old-vinier?). Combines grip with finesse. Very long. Not an “easy” wine, but the kind I like. Rating: 91+
Guyon Echézeaux 2007
This has almost everything for a 2007 apart from the baby fat of a greater vintage: balance, body, ripeness, more flavour to the tannin, lightly inky and red beet tinged raspberry, integrated spice, very good length, and nothing that sticks out like a sore thumb. Faintest, but terroir-typical duck top note. Promising, yet nice to taste. Rating: 92(+?)
Domaine des Lambrays Morey Saint-Denis 2007
Less artificial/weird in a quasi Guy Accad style than last vintage, but still, not a favourite style of mine. Relatively sane 12.8% to 12.9% alcohol. Fruity, good volume, fair enough complexity, medium density and length. Rating: 87(+?)
Domaine des Lambrays Morey Saint-Denis Les Loups 2007
Greater density, more complex, and subtlety too (albeit never a main characteristic of the wines at this domaine in recent years). Longer. Integrated earth notes, some nutty/scorched oak. Rating: 88+?
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2007
Slightly roasted in addition to the nutty/scorched oak. Yet longer (and still not what I am looking for). Faintly rubbery, Accad-like as Henrik observed, but more balanced, with greater potential harmony than in some recent vintages, but: no more impressive on the whole. Rating: 89+?
Leflaive Bourgogne 2007
Pretty oak, soft fruit, little depth, quite high-acid, medium-short. Rating: 86
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2007
Nicer or at least better integrated oak, clean vanilla to some pit fruit, some complexity, soft herbs, longer. Rating: 87+/88?
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 2007
Even though never my favourite in terms of terroir expression (that would be the Pucelles among the 1er Crus in the Portfolio, and I mean by far), this struck me (and Henrik) as perhaps the relative standout among Leflaive’s whites on display that day. More “aristocratic” or noble, greater depth, subtlety and finesse. Herbs, soft spice, faintest mineral dust. Rating: 89+
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles 2007
Quite a bit oak-spicier, but also much more minerally, oilier, as well as more interesting in terms of terroir expression. More candied lime and thistle oil. Fairly long on the spicy finish (and not just from the oak). Henrik found this less convincing than the Clavoillon, I merely thought so comparatively (= i.e. for what has come to expect from each of the wines). Rating: 90+/91(+?)
Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 2007
The terroir expression here may again be fractionally more noble, the pit fruit and lime a bit grapefruitier, and of good precision, the stoniness of the minerality a bit more distinct, and apart from more finesse, the wine may be ever so slightly rounder and smoother, but: it seemed both lighter and shorter, and altogether lacked the overall size, weight, complexity and intensity one expects from a Grand Cru (especially one in this price category). Henrik may be right referring to this as a relative disappointment. Rating: ~91?
Pierre Morey Volnay Santenots 2007
Bit lighter than most wines that day, but typical Volnay, fairly fruity, a bit nutty with oak, slightly tight and oaky tannin, medium-short finish. Rating: 87
Pierre Morey Pommard Grands Epenots 2007
Bit tighter overall, more precise, better integrated oak, a bit longer. Rating: 87+/88?
Thierry Mortet Bourgogne 2007
The lightest wine of the tasting but fairly high in alcohol all the same. Touch of oak-induced marzipan. Rating: 82+/83
Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2007
Noticeably more attractive terroir expression, quite typical Gevrey, firmer wine, longer. Some complexity and finesse, but also oak. Again, a far cry from the 2005 here. Rating: ~87
Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Vigne Belle 2007
Fruitier, livelier, if higher-acid. But no more natural-tasting, some tightness/compactness/compression to the tannin. Rating: 86+/87
Thierry Mortet Chambolle-Musigny 2007
Seemed to belie its provenance with nuts, tree bark and some roastedness. A touch hot with alcohol and slightly nutty with oak. Medium length. Rating: 86+/87?
Thierry Mortet Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 2007
More depth or at least spice, an a tighter core of reserve fruit. Less but still slightly hot. Better oak integration. Longer. Rating: 88(+?)
Henri Perrot-Minot Gevrey-Chambertin 2007
Fairly straightforward Gevrey given the price category, relatively oaky, tannic-nutty, and a bit short. Rating: 84+/85(+?)
Henri Perrot-Minot Morey Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy 2007
Tighter if a wine of greater old-vininess and grip. But oakier and nuttier, too. Rating: 86(+?)
Henri Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2007
More minerally, stronger metal underpinning, but also fruitier. Comparatively well-integrated oak. Rating: 87+/88?
Henri Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Champs Perdrix 2007
Oakier again, and shorter than the Chambolle. Not too fruity. Oak and brown spice to slightly dusty-powdery tannin. Rating: ~87(+?)
Henri Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny Aux Echanges 2007
Paler colour than most wines that day (virtually none of which were particularly deeply coloured to begin with). A bit oaky for my taste (note this is always one of the most popular booths, crowded with people who would hardly agree with any of my criticisms). But nice tree bark tinged softness to the fruit here. Shorter on the finish. Rating: 87+/88(+?)
Henri Perrot-Minot Morey Saint-Denis La Riotte 2007
Greater terroir expression, fruitier and longer, well-balanced, greater potential for harmony, no undue alcoholic heat, but a bit roasted. Rating: 89+?
Henri Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2007
Terroir-typical Les Beaux Monts. Brighter and more precise, as well as rounder and more glyceric. Minerally, quite long. A relative standout of the portfolio (along with what seemed the favourite with prospective customers, the La Riotte). Rating: 89+/90
Henri Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges La Richemone 2007
Oakier again, a bit tight if fanning out (somewhat) on towards the aback end. A bit nutty with oak on a finish of medium-plus length. Rating: 88+/89(+?)
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 2007
Pretty, juicy, fat-free, lightly nutty-oaky but also nicely spicy fruit, fairly long. Rating: 87+
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2007
Again pretty, but closed. More roast beef/lamb, pepper and minerality. More tannic, but also greater grip overall. Longer. Rating: 90+/91(+?)
Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin 2007
Nuttier with oak, some beef juice to less defined fruit, but there is more of it, more voluminous, balanced wine. Salty minerality and extract. Fairly long. Rating: 90+/91
Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes 2007
Touch more iron, nice fruit, too. Not too big for a Grand Cru. Fair enough length. Good potential for harmony, nice, but no “better” than the Charmes in this vintage (in contrast to most vintages). Rating: 90+
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 2007
Even if the “other” Rousseau wines have clearly been catching up with the usual suspects (the top three) in recent years, the step up remains noticeable – so much so that when I think of, speak of (daydream of) Rousseau’s wines as a favourite paradigm of red Burgundy, I must always issue the caveat that what I am thinking of are the CSJ, Chambertin Clos de Bèze and Chambertin here. One of the rare 2007s that offers real volume and a mouthfeel at least verging on the sucrosité of a greater vintage, plus terroir expression and fruit in (relative!) abundance. Concentrated, with earth, minerality, some metals, beef broth cube spice, more flavourful/complex tannin, and greater length. Rating: 92(+?)
Tollot-Beaut Bourgogne 2007
Fair QPR buy provided one likes the style. Complex fruit, herbs and oak flavours for a generic Pinot Noir, quite intense and earthy-minerally. A bit shorter than ideal perhaps. Rating: 86
Tollot-Beaut Chorey-Lès-Beaune Pièce du Chapitre 2007
A bit closed, tighter and more tannic, grey peppery and oaky wine, perhaps fractionally more serious terroir expression (not in general a strength here). Longer (altough not too much so). Rating: 86+/87(+?)
Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaunes Champ Chevrey 2007
Nicer balance and good finesse despite high alcohol. Slightly closed fruit but nicer tannin, good stony minerality. Rating: 86+/87(+?)
Tollot-Beaut Aloxe-Corton Les Fournières 2007
Greater density and sweetness to the fruit, altogether different mouthfeel/texture (more like a solid/candy albeit not too sweet at all), complex berries with an attractive metal note underneath, nice round tannin. Rating: 89
Tollot-Beaut Beaune Clos du Roy 2007
A bit deeper (even though the terroir notes do not point to anything too special) and more tannic. Lightly peppery-tight fruit. Marzipan sweetness. Long and firm on the finish. Rating: 89(+?)
Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes 2007
Fuller body (alcohol levels are inevitably high chez Tollot) and more oak spice making this a stylistically less favourite choice (the step up that I am looking for in a Grand Cru is terroir expression and depth), but certainly more intense, and fairly complex. Good length. Rating: ~90?
Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 2007
Poured as usual by the most affable Jean-Luc Pépin. Nicely voluminous, lightly meaty, pretty brown spice and fruit, good body and length. It is the quality of this and the following bottling that has gone up most noticeably in recent years. Rating: 89+/90
Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2007
The young vines Musigny is catching up big time, a precise wine with deep fruit, nicely tannic, fairly hard yet juicy, and long on the finish. Rating: 92(+?)
Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 2007
Tighter (albeit not “tight” and forbidding as in some vintages at all) and more difficult to evaluate (at least to me – Monsieur Pépin always seems to find the Bonnes Mares easier to judge than the Musigny). Neither longer nor bigger, but at least as concentrated, as well as old-vinier than the young vines Musigny (aka Chambolle 1er Cru). Soft metal notes, intriguing herbs (tarragon, chives and thyme, and some ethereal/surreal oregano). Henrik’s wine of the tasting (he finds it “nicely straight”). Rating: 91+/92(+?)
Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2007
Florality and freshness, with a certain mintiness to the acidity that is in noticeable contrast to the more camphor-like touch of some wines in other portfolios. Precise yet not really open for business (2007 is about surface openness versus sometimes shut down/merely underlying depth, but with much of the finesse and the terroir expression showing well already). Nice spicy peppermint. Soft stone dust minerality. Longer than the Bonnes Mares. Could be bigger, though. Monsieur Pépin finds the 2007 is all about freshness and spice, along with a certain sucrosité. Also inquired about the maturity of some of the top vintages of the nineties, e.g. the 1993 and 1996 – Monsieur Pépin says both are evolving nicely, but insists neither is remotely close to being ready. Rating: 93+/94(+?)
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Anne-Claude Leflaive, apart from her Puligny whites, also poured samples from her new venture in the Loire, Clos de Nell. She is extremely proud of the “great terroirs” she bought in Anjou, but was candid insofar as she believes it will take a few years until she will be able to make/show wines that prove it. I love good Loire reds, and am very much looking forward to sampling more, especially also of the indigenous Grolleau, a variety I must admit I did not know.
Clos de Nell Anjou Cabernet Franc 2003
Some of the Loire-typical smoky tobacco and graphite to unusually warm/ripe fruit. Minerally for the vintage. Faintly chocolaty on the mid-palate, but noticeably oaky only on the medium-long finish. Rating: 87+/88(+?)
Clos de Nell Anjou Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
From 45-year-old vines. Silex/flintstone nose like the Cabernet Franc (or rather, like Loire CF from vintages similar to this), but with an emphasis on CS variety-typical blackcurrant sweetness. Finesse notes of calc-tuff and mushroom. Attractive combination of grape variety and terroir, even if the CF and Grolleau appeared to suit it even better. Rating: 88+/89+?
Clos de Nell Anjou Grolleau 2005
From 80-year-old vines. 12 to 12.5% alcohol “only”, Madame Leflaive said. Spicier, lighter in fruit (possibly not a “fruity” variety to begin with?). Herbs, tree bark, forest floor. Quite long (but not of truly great length). Quite special in the sense that the flavour profile seems rather unique despite the fact that this may not be a great example (yet) – I will be looking out for this bottling in the future. Rating: 88(+?)
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti