WTN: 2 Châteauneuf du Papes and a Pic-St Loup
The arrival of a great friend from England a few weeks back warranted the opening of a couple of prized possessions. First up, the 1998 Le Vieux Donjon. A bottle from my dimishing six-pack opened over the last year or two had shown especially well but this particular one proved muted. There was plenty muscle, some not disreputable austerity, but while the structure and body and character of Châteauneuf du Pape were all present, the dark fruit had mostly gone, secondary flavors were yet to fully appear, and the tannins still offered considerable grip, and so I have to conclude that if the wine was not exactly unhappy or particular out of sorts, it definitely appeared to be brooding. I've had enormous enjoyment following this Vieux Donjon from its tannic childhood to this currently unpredictable but potentially revelatory coming of age, and I greatly look forward to opening my remaining bottles - in a few years.
But then what do you know: the 2000 Chateau Beaucastel was up, out and at ‘em already. The nose revealed plenty bright red and black fruit, suggesting the wine was still in its youth, and yet there was no funk/brett, and surprisingly little tannin. Rather the wine was found to be in perfect profile, with an an entry of vibrant fruit giving way to a creamy texture, relatively medium body, and soft leather/saddle/earth/mushroom notes leading to a full but friendly finish. Exceptional all around, the sort of wine that provokes anyone to sit up and take notice. I hesitate to announce that this is drinking at its peak, but it was one of those times where I didn't stop to think for a moment that it would have been better any sooner or later.
A bonus review for the 1999 Chateau la Roque, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St-Loup “Cupa Numismae,” a 60% Syrah, 40% Mourvèdre blend that speaks to the Rhône region but, perhaps, for the fact that it was given the new oak treatment for 15 months. Purchased for $20 in Brooklyn, probably in ‘02, this was also showing extremely well. There was plenty attractive cedar spice to the nose, but the wine itself was smooth and well-rounded, suggesting that oak and tannin had integrated nicely, there was still some dark blueberries and blackberries poking about, and a lovely coating of dusty tannins mixed in with a silky finish of considerable finesse. If perhaps a little short on typicity or terroir, it still contained enough characteristics of Southern France so as not to be confused with anything New World. Given its price and ageing potential, I have to consider this excellent QPR. Went down very well with a risotto of fresh organic root vegetables picked from the local farm only a couple of days earlier.
Happy Thanksgiving.