The last two weekends have been graced by tastings organised by a couple of importers of top class French artisan producers. After tastings of big line-ups of Italian and Spanish wines, I have complained of the onset of palate fatigue which hindered my ability to differentiate between the wines. I felt nothing like that here. French growers of this calibre seem to be able to be able to produce an elegance and harmony in their wines which prevent their becoming overpowering even from the robust Southern appellations.
First we had the 15th anniversary tasting at the Brussels wine merchant, La Maison du Vin, with the growers themselves present.
Domaine François Chidaine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
This estate produces beautifully focussed wines mainly from Vouvray, where they acquired the Poniatowski estate, and from Montlouis.
Sauvignon de Touraine 2008 (€6,50) was beautifully crisp and refreshing with gooseberry notes. I wonder why I pay 3 times this for Sancerre which is little better; 15.5/20++ QPR!!
Vouvray Argiles 2007 sec (€14) was subdued on the nose but showed linear shape and a crisp and crystalline elegance on the almost bone dry (3g RS) palate; 16.5/20.
Montlouis Clos de Breuil 2007 sec (€14) showed rather more amplitude and more pronounced fruit (apple and pear) flavours without quite the same elegance as the previous; 16.5/20.
Montlouis moelleux 2005 (€20) was also on show but I forgot to call back here at the end of the tasting.
Domaine Josmeyer, Wintzerheim, Alsace
These wines have a brightness of focus which appeals to me more than the opulent (and more expensive) offerings from Zind-Humbrecht tasted the following weekend.
Pinot blanc, mise du printemps, 2008 (€12); I am not much of a fan of this grape but this one was appealingly fresh and crisp with apple notes; 15.5/20.
Riesling Kotabe 2008 (€17) showed subdued aromas of minerals and white fruit with a dash of petrol and a long palate with crisp acidity and great freshness which gave a subjectively dry impression in spite of 9g of RS; 16/20+.
Pinot Gris Fromenteau 2008 (€18) had 10g of RS but was likewise subjectively dry with appealingly crisp acidity balancing the usual PG juicy roundness; 16/20+.
Riesling Pierrets 2004 (€24), 10g RS, was showing a degree of aromatic development and complexity which Kotabe has yet to attain; there were lovely citrus notes mingled with minerals and hydrocarbon together with gentle “gras” and good length; 16.5/20+.
Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 2002 (€38) was on show but again I forgot this table on my way out.
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet
An unfamiliar estate but on this showing it makes wines of considerable purity and finesse.
Bourgogne blanc 2007 (€16) was an excellent generic with good “gras” and minerality and some nicely burnished notes; 15.5/20+.
Chassagne-Montrachet 2007 W (€27) was richer and more burnished than the previous but also showing fine minerality; 16/20.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru La Romanée 2007 W (€45) showed another step up with greater fleshiness and complexity, greater substance and volume of acidity always with fine minerality; 16.5/20.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2007 R (€9) was quite simple and quaffable with plentiful minerals and red fruit (sour cherry); 15/20 QPR.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Morgeot 2007 R (€24) showed initially an odd chemical note (sulphur?) through the cherry on the nose but it diminished with airing; the palate was lightish but elegant with great purity of fruit and a touch of complexity; 15.5/20++.
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges
The estate seems to have made a good effort to get stuffing into the 2007 reds which are often lean elsewhere.
Haute Côte de Nuits blanc (€16) lacked the complexity of the Chassagnes but was pleasingly straightforward and robust with good minerality.
Bourgogne rouge 2007 (€13) showed bright and pure fruit aromas and a round and fruity palate; 15.5/20 QPR.
Haute Côtes de Nuits 2007 rouge (€16) was more closed than the previous and showed more tannic structure; 15/20 with ++ potential
Nuits-Saint-Georges 2007 (€29) was also closed but the matter was rounder and more substantial and the tannins present but I sensed elegance; 15.5/20 with +++ potential.
Domaine de l’Hortus, Valflaunes, Coteaux du Languedoc (“CdL")
This is not one of my favourite Languedoc estates as I have sometimes been too conscious of a sophisticated wood patina not in keeping with my idea of Languedoc. This time that patina was only in evidence on the last wine.
VdP Val de Montferrand Bergerie de l’Hortus blanc 2008 (€9), from Chard, Sauvignon and Roussanne, was fresh and fleshy with citrus and fennel touches; 15/20 QPR.
CdL Grande Cuvée blanc 2008 (€16) was even fleshier but still fresh with burnished touches; 15.5/20.
CdL Pic-Saint-Loup Bergerie de l’Hortus rouge 2006 (€9), from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, showed aromas of tangy plum, minerals, good depth and tannic structure; 15.5/20+ QPR.
CdL L’Hortus Pic-Saint-Loup Grande Cuvée 2007 (€16), from Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, was deeper, sweeter fruited and smoother with good depth but with touches of dry caramel on the finish which may integrate with time; 15.5/20+.
Domaine du Vissoux, Pierre-Marie Chermette, Saint-Vérand
One of my favourite Beaujolais estates and these wines did not disappoint.
Beaujolais Tradition Vieilles Vignes 2008 (€8,50) was a model of what basic Beaujolais should be but rarely is; savoury stewed plum fruit with lively acidity and minerals and robustly mouth-filling; not complex or sophisticated but eminently quaffable and moreish; 15/20++ QPR!(repeat of TN on bottle opened at home).
Fleurie Poncié 2008 (€12) befittingly showed rounder fruit and greater complexity and charm whilst retaining the lively acidity and minerals; 16/20 QPR!
Moulin-à-Vent 2007 (€13) showed more savoury aromas with touches of grilled meat, good fruit and minerals with more substantial structure and tannins; 16/20 QPR.
Domaine Pierre Cros, Minervois
This estate is a new one for me with robust, tasty wines not smoothed down by too much sophistication, except the last.
Minervois Tradition 2007 (€6,50), from Carignan and Grenache, had an attractive taste of prunes, pips and liquorice on a robust body; 15.5/20 QPR!!
Minervois Vieilles Vignes 2007 (€12), from Carignan 100%, had strappy aromas of dark fruit, leather and metal buckle and the body was dark, deep and tangy; 16/20 QPR!
Minervois Les Aspres 2007 (€21,50), from Syrah 100% matured 100% in new wood, showed aromas of ripe raspberry and liquorice with considerable body and depth but also with a lot of caramel on the finish; 14/20 right now but potentially around 16/20 if the wood integrates.
Domaine Elian da Ros, Côtes du Marmandais (“CdM”)
This estate has been producing wines since 1997 which punch well above the normal weight of appellation. I have seen a Chante-Coucou placed very well as a ringer in a blind line-up of Saint-Emilions. Chante-Coucou and Clos Baquey benefit from time in the bottle. The two 2007s here had more stuffing that many I have had elsewhere.
CdM Le Vin est une Fête 2007 (€8), from Merlot 60%, CabFranc and CabSauv, was a bit closed aromatically with some dark fruit and the palate showed good freshness, weight of body and structure; 15/20++ QPR
CdM Chante-Coucou 2007 (€16), from Merlot 60%, Malbec and CabSauv, showed subdued aromas of dark fruit, leather and liquorice and the palate was quite tight but with very good substance; 15.5/20 with +++ potential.
CdM Clos Baquey 2005 (€24), from Merlot, Merlot and CabFranc 1/3 each, Arbouriou 20%, rest CabSauv, was also quite subdued aromatically but showed harmony, depth, rich fruit and chocolate touches; 16/20 potentially +++.
Domaine Alain Graillot
Tandem Syrah du Maroc 2007 (€11). His 2006 was very good in a Southern rather candied and spicy style. This 2007 is even better showing remarkable pure linear fruit with bright acidity and surprising finesse and elegance. It could almost be taken for one of Graillot’s Crozes-Hermitages but I thought that there was a touch more warmth and generosity here; 16/20+++ QPR! (Repeat of TN from a September tasting)
Crozes-Hermitage blanc 2008 (€16), from Marsanne 80% and roussanne 20% with no malo, was fresh and lively with good flesh and honeyed after-taste; 15.5/20.
Crozes-Hermitage rouge 2007 (€16) was another delicious example of one of my favourite wines with elegant steely complex aromas with typical cherry notes and a beautifully focussed and mineral palate with a long cherry after-taste; 16.5/20 QPR.
Domaine Pierre Gaillard, Côtes Rôtie
Polished wines here which tend to be oaky in their youth.
Saint-Joseph blanc 2008 (€20,50), from Roussanne 100% and barrel fermented, showed aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and some liqueur with good freshness and minerality but also mild caramel hints which should integrate in a few months; 15/20 with ++ potential.
Condrieu 2008 (€34) would be my sort of Viognier were it not for caramel notes on the finish; otherwise there was a lovely freshness lifting the typical apricot tinged fleshiness and burnished spice; 15.5/20 with ? +++ potential if the caramel integrates.
Again caramel notes from 50% new barriques marred Saint-Joseph Culinailles rouge 2007 (€20) at present; otherwise there were attractive grilled meat and cherry aromas and fine matter; in my experience Cuminailles ages gracefully so potentially 16/20.
Côte Rôtie 2007 (€37). Here is an extract of my TN from a September tasting. It is at present subdued on the nose but the palate was suave and elegant,… full… and rich… but the finish was dominated by creamy vanilla veering to caramel; barely 15/20 now but probably 16/20+ when the wood integrates. The miracle has already happened; the vanilla and caramel notes have already receded into a faint polished patina and steely cherry and grilled meat now dominate the elegant palate. I asked Pierre Gaillard about this rapid transformation and he thought it was probably due to the shock of recent bottling two months ago which tends to scalp the fruit temporarily but not the wood aromas; 16.5/20 with ++ potential.
Domaine l’Oratoire Saint-Martin, Cairanne
This is another favourite estate. I have bottles of Prestige and Haut-Coustias going back to 1998 which are showing beautifully and Réserve des Seigneurs invariably gives delicious drinking in its youth.
Côtes du Rhône Villages (“CDRV”) Cairanne Réserve des Seigneurs blanc 2008 (€9), from Roussanne and Clairette, was fresh, flowery with meaty and mineral touches; 15/20++ QPR.
CDRV Cairanne Réserve des Seigneurs rouge 2008 (€11), from Grenache 60%, Mourvèdre and Syrah, was another delicious wine from a year despised by some (including Jancis R); lovely tangy red and dark fruit with lively acidity, pepper, medium/light body, good mouth-fill and shape; less rich and generous than in some years but with a compensating freshness and digestibility which puts it in a different gastronomic slot from usual; 16/20 QPR!!.
CDRV Cairanne Prestige 2006 (€14,50), from Grenache 60% and Mourvèdre 40% 100 year old vines, was round and rich with dark fruit and notes of chocolate; on past form will probably develop more complexity; 16/20 with ++ potential QPR.
CDRV Haut-Coustias 2004 (€15,50), from Mourvèdre 60%, Syrah and Grenache 20% each 70 year old vines, was showing altogether more finesse, complexity and tannic structure with some notes of minerals cherry and orange showing through the substantial fruit; 16.5/20++ with further possible potential QPR!.
Domaine la Réméjeanne, Cadignac, Gard (Southern Rhône right bank)
This is another stand-by for Value for Money (QPR) Rhône wines. Perhaps less class here than from Oratoire Saint-Martin which benefits from the exceptional Cairanne terroir. I discussed bottle variation with Rémy Klein and he acknowledges that this is particularly a problem between different bottling runs but is unable to pinpoint why it happens. He has even experimented with bottling according to phases of the moon with no conclusive results.
CDR Les Chèvrefeuilles 2008 (€7,50), from a cocktail of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carigan and Cinsault, was another success from this decried vintage with its tangy savoury fruit with a degree of richness and body more than other 08s I have tried; 15.5/20 QPR.
CDR Les Arbousiers 2007 (€10), from Grenache 60% and Syrah 40%, was medium/full bodied and showed sweeter and meatier aromas than the previous with rounder and richer fruit with liquorice touches; 15.5/20+++ QPR. Sold out unfortunately.
CDR Les Génevriers 2007 (€14,50), also from Grenache 60% and Syrah 40%, was more subdued but showed greater finesse, structure and elegance than the previous in addition to the richness and body but needs a little more time for full expression; 16/20+ QPR.
Domaine Du Clos des Fées, Hervé Bizeul, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (“CdRV2”)
I managed to avoid a mauling by Hervé Bizeul’s sardonic tongue this time. I eschewed favourable reference to his neighbour, Gérard Gauby, and perhaps this helped. Some high, even very high, prices here.
CdVR2 Les Sorcières 2008 (€11), from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, showed nice pure and tangy fruit with nice fleshiness on medium/full body; 15.5/20 QPR.
CdRV2 Vieilles Vignes 2006 (€25), from Grenache and Carignan, showed aromas of pure fresh fruit and depth on the full bodied palate and a nice complexity with hints of spice, discreet liqueur and old books; 16/20+.
CdRV2 Le Clos 2006 (€50), from Syrah 40%, Grenache and Carignan, was aromatically more subdued but showed great concentration and power with notes of chocolate and old book coming through; give it more time but then 16/20++.
CdRV2 La Petite Sibérie 2007 (c. €200), from Grenache, was closed and tight but showed remarkable fruit density, concentration, tannic structure and power; some critics speak of undigested wood but I found it well covered by the remarkable matter; still in the awkward adolescent phase but shows great promise; potentially 17/20+.