1998 Muller-Catoir Mussbacher Eselhaut Riesling Kabinett Trocken
Not dead yet, in fact lively enough to go out for a walk & improve through dinner. Certainly austere upon opening, it broadened and deepened with air. Very fine.
1998 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken
Floral and citric on the nose. Balanced and perfectly mature on the palate. This is not going to get better, but it is in the perfect place right now. I am finishing the last half glass from the bottle now, and it's about as good as dry (now) Riesling has any right to be.
1998 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese
As good as the first two were, this was twice as good as both put together. We caught this bottle at peak, with lingering tropical fruit, emerging creaminess and an edge that gave it structural integrity. Fantastic. Laura's wine of the night (the only vote that matters
)And the extras:
2002 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese
Lots of creamy character in this wine, but air brings out more structure and more fruit. The balance is of course impeccable, but the Catoir still had the edge on this night.
2000 Chateau Lagrange
The obligatory red wine received little attention, but was excellent, as the youthful wood that Lagrange usually displays had been mostly integrated, and there was the beginning of some earthy/leathery secondary development. This bottle may have been a bit advanced, but it did not hurt it. Drinking very well now.
