Here are some wines consumed at home over the last ten days or so. Many of them are second looks sometimes with rather different impressions from the first look.
Beaune Marconnets 1990 – Albert Morot. I had a mixed dozen of this and Teurons 90, all of which have so far been very good to excellent but this one disappointed; a touch of cabbage in the aromas, slim fruit with a hint of varnish-like acidity and drying tannins. The cork was hard, its top mouldy with level down into the top of the sloping Burgundian shoulders so I am hoping that the remaining bottles will still be good; 13.5/20.
Now for three Grenache based wines with a couple from the same estate in the neighbouring 07 and 08 vintages –
I liked Terra Alta “Via Edetana” 2005 from Catalunya less than a few weeks ago; it showed rich sweet fruit and structure but, in addition to boiled sweet notes, I detected this time some residual dry caramel from its 12 months barrique ageing and found it somewhat clumsy; 14.5/20.
Côtes du Rhône Villages 2007 – Domaine Sainte-Anne, an excellent estate, was also sweet fruited, generous and rich but was more harmonious than the previous with attractive spice notes, more stylish tannic structure, a redeeming hint of fresh acidity and freedom from the contamination of barrique notes; 15.5/20++.
Côtes du Rhône 2008 – Domaine Sainte-Anne. It is fashionable to diss 2008, especially when compared to 2007, and Jancis R does it again in this week’s FT article http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/e38ec0e6-d567 ... abdc0.html but I have liked those which I have tasted so far for their fresh and pure fruity aromas and their tangy savoury, though comparatively light, palates with lively acidity. This one was no exception and I found it more quaffable than the weightier 2007 and a better tenant of the gastronomic slot for simple savoury fare; 15.5/20+.
And now for two Syrah based wines from different French regions-
In spite of coming from the Southern Rhône not far North of Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages “Géodisia” 2004 – Domaine Chapoton, 85% Syrah, could have been mistaken for a Northen Rhône with the purity its smoothly steely cherry fruit and its elegant linear structure; 16/20.
Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux “Côte Rousse” 2000 – Domaine de l’Aiguelière, Syrah dominated, is quite similar to the previous with perhaps a touch fuller body and more sweetness and depth in its fruit but also a residual caramel note from its barrique ageing which, for me, detracts from its purity and elegance; 16/20.
I tried Monterrei “Alanda” 2006 Quinta da Muradella (Galicia), from Mencia, Bastardo and Arauxa, at a recent tasting and was attracted by what I then described as “its unusual flavours of steely and tangy cherry with a lively medicinal hint”. On retasting at home I don’t think that “medicinal” is an adequate descriptor and now analyse it as a hint of brandy with a bitter liquorice tinge; combined with the steely and tangy cherry, lively acidity and decent structure, this is surprisingly attractive and went almost as well as Chianti was a pasta dish with parmesan gratings and tomato sauce. The importer says that this wine is non-commercial; what a pity; 15.5/20++.
Beaujolais Cuvée Traditionnelle Vieilles Vignes 2008 – Pierre-Marie Chermette, Domaine du Vissoux was a model of what basic Beaujolais should be but rarely is; savoury stewed plum fruit with lively acidity and minerals and robustly mouth-filling; not complex or sophisticated but eminently quaffable and moreish; 15/20++.
Finally two very good whites –
Grüner Veltliner Zwirch, Ried Zwirch Inzerdorf, 2004 – Neumayer, Traisenthal was a lovely combination of zesty and mineral acidity and creamy white fruit which made it an excellent white Burgundy substitute to accompany sole, scallops and scampi; 16/20+.
When I tasted it at the estate, I liked Orvieto Superiore “Lunata” 2008 – Tenuta Le Velette for its fresh and lively fragrance combined with smooth and quite rich fruit and lovely oriental spices. Although I have read that Orvieto does not travel, I can confirm that it was just as good, if not better, with the typically Belgian “moules marinières” at home; 16/20++.