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Subtlety

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Florida Jim

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Subtlety

by Florida Jim » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:03 am

It’s been awhile since I was really excited by a wine purchase. I’ve had lots of exciting wines but buying has been pushed aside in favor of trying to get a business started.

A nice price on the 2007 Edmund Vatan, Sancerre Clos La Néore got me to take the plunge (how often do you see this stuff discounted?) and I bought a case. It arrived yesterday.

I knew what I would do – the box hadn’t been in the house ten minutes before a bottle was opened. I’ll grab out one or two more bottles to take with me back to FL but the remainder will go into storage here (where I can’t get at it until I’m back out – one way to be ‘disciplined’).

The wine is the epitome of grace and subtlety. It is not big, powerful, acidic or explosive – it is perfectly balanced, complex, very precise and beautifully scented and flavored.

Several sauvignon blancs I drink and like (especially those from CA) are more voluptuous, more viscous and more intense. But none weave a spell like Vatan.

But then, I remember a time I was quite taken with “Bay Watch.”
Now, I prefer “It Takes a Thief.”

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Ian Sutton

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Re: Subtlety

by Ian Sutton » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:17 am

Jim
I've not tasted the wine, but I'm very much a believer that the measure of a wine's quality goes beyond intensity alone (though I might retract that with some stickies, where I seem drawn to eye-watering intensity). Aspects such as complexity, balance, charm, etc. are also very important for me.
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Ian
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Subtlety

by David M. Bueker » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:26 am

Ian Sutton wrote:Jim
I've not tasted the wine, but I'm very much a believer that the measure of a wine's quality goes beyond intensity alone (though I might retract that with some stickies, where I seem drawn to eye-watering intensity). Aspects such as complexity, balance, charm, etc. are also very important for me.
regards
Ian


One of the valuable lessons I have learned from Terry Theise is the difference between intensity and volume. Wines like Vatan's have an intensity of flavor that is not caused by sheer size.
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Rahsaan

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Re: Subtlety

by Rahsaan » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:33 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Wines like Vatan's have an intensity of flavor that is not caused by sheer size.


Does that mean you can appreciate (and even like!) this wine? An honest-to-goodness sauvignon blanc! :wink:
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Subtlety

by David M. Bueker » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:36 am

Rahsaan wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:Wines like Vatan's have an intensity of flavor that is not caused by sheer size.


Does that mean you can appreciate (and even like!) this wine? An honest-to-goodness sauvignon blanc! :wink:


I can appreciate its quality. I am not fond of it.
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Rahsaan

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Re: Subtlety

by Rahsaan » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:42 am

David M. Bueker wrote:I can appreciate its quality. I am not fond of it.


Well, you're a good man for at least appreciating the quality.

I love these Vatan wines and get as enthusiastic as Jim does about them.
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Re: Subtlety

by Jenise » Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:14 pm

When intensity and subtlety can be discussed in the same sentence and not be contradictory...well, that's my kind of wine. Never had a Vatan, but will be looking for them now.

Jenise
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Florida Jim

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Re: Subtlety

by Florida Jim » Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:29 pm

Jenise wrote:When intensity and subtlety can be discussed in the same sentence and not be contradictory...well, that's my kind of wine. Never had a Vatan, but will be looking for them now.

Jenise

Jenise,
FWIW, there are a number of Vatan's making Sancerre; only one Edmund.
They are normally quite expensive but Flickinger had them for $35/bottle (which is almost half price) so I went long.
BTW, they age for decades and can develop into something other-worldly (as very few sauvignons can).
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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