2007 Knoll Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd
Biggish and rich-ish but salty rocky minerally and ‘fresh’. It gains some golden firmness with air and I would never go so far as to call this sloppy or blowsy. But it remains just a tad too loose for my bells to really ring. (Is that the vineyard? Aging curve? Vintage?) Still, I had no problem finishing the bottle.
2007 Lapierre Morgon
This ‘S’ bottling is much darker and rounder than the tart thin bottle I remember from March. But then it seems like the one thing people can agree on with this wine is that it varies. For the first few hours this is dark and round but unformed, ‘soupy’, and lacking focus. However, after a few hours it all comes together and shows the gorgeously silky Lapierre texture with a light fresh focused feel compared to 05 or 06. And of course it is a classic fragrant kaleidoscope of crystallized red berries, pomegranate seeds, whatever you want, there are nuances here. Me likes.
2007 Michel Guignier Morgon VV
I had never heard of this producer but after the Lapierre I was in a Morgon Mood so I gave this a try. Juicy and fun but structured and spicy and reminds me more of the Burgaud Morgon style than the Lapierre/Foillard/Thévenet style that so captures my heart. Nonetheless, with air this is quite attractive. It is dark and structured and shows the stalky side of gamay but it also has a gentle cushion-ey pillowy texture which redeems it for me. Still, I won’t be rushing out to buy more.