WTN: Non-conformists: Figeac & Rauzan-Gassies

Last week I attended the claret tasting at the Institute of Masters of Wine in London, an annual event which always looks at the vintage from four years before, so this year it was naturally the turn of the 2005 vintage. Strange, then, to find two interlopers in amongst all the other wines, which included Mouton, Lafite, Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Margaux, Cheval-Blanc and Petrus (so not a bad tasting to travel down to London for, even if it does mean a 4:20am alarm to do so).

I spotted the Figeac, which had been pulled from the line-up and was on a separate table, but it was only through the diligence of another that I spotted that the Rauzan-Gassies was the 2006. As to why these two estates chose not to conform top the theme of the tasting, I simply don't know. Perhaps (although very few of the other wines seemed awkward or closed down) they felt their 2005s not to be showing well at the moment?

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2006: Bright fruit and toasty oak here. Polished, slightly plump in style, but with appealing aromatics, smoky charcoal. The palate has less substance than a number of other wines especially at the second growth level (although to be fair this was tasted in a room full of other wines from the superb 2005 vintage), with a slightly juicy, loose-knit element to it. A ripe, gentle substance, slightly fleshy texture, and a good tannic core, this certainly shows the good results of recent efforts at Gassies, although it still lags behind its peers. Good grippy finish though. 15+/20

Chateau Figeac 2000: A very elegant nose, curranty, defined, stylish and rich, with a beautiful smoky, green peppercorn element to it alongside the crunchy dark fruit. The palate is surprisingly stark in terms of texture, not fleshy, but certainly full of character backed up by an appealing structure. Attractive iron and bloody meat flavours. This wine, although still showing a lot of structure, with good grip in the finish, already exhibits some very appealing and mature aromatic qualities, but there is more elegance and harmony due on the palate I think. The wise will leave this alone for a while yet...although it certainly gives pleasure now. 17.5+/20

We shared the Figeac 2000 last month with our neighbors in a roast javelina dinner and it was too raw for me--the green was there, though it was more bell / paisilla chiles, and mouth-puckeringly tannic. I grabbed the bottle out of the cellar at 56 degrees and it was opened immediately with no air time. It was gone before I had the chance to see what nose there was. Everyone but me loved it but even with the mishandling I’m guessing you’re right, another couple of years couldn’t hurt.

[David M. Bueker]

Figeac is a personal favorite for its old school style. Sadly it has new school pricing, so I don't get to drink it often.

IMO both Rauzans are much more elegant and subtle than most other classed growths. this endears them to me. at the UGC tasting of '06's i was particularly impressed with Gassies. apparently new and charming owners whom everyone in the area wishes well. good start i would say.

Chris,

Are these tastings that are open to the public? I'm in the London area quite a bit and would love to go to these things.

Mike

the UGC tastings are like other trade tastings - open to the trade only. i go to the one in chicago; but there is one in new york as well. can you become 'trade' somehow? this january the tasting will be of the '07's. last year there were about 100 chateau represented - mostly by owners.

the UGC tastings are like other trade tastings - open to the trade only. i go to the one in chicago; but there is one in new york as well. can you become 'trade' somehow? this january the tasting will be of the '07's. last year there were about 100 chateau represented - mostly by owners.

Many thanks David. I'm actually in the trade and have gone to other trade events like VinItaly and VinExpo and also many of the Napa event. These generally lead to local tastings by trade associations that I get invited to but I never seem to get invited to the UCG (i'll look on their website to see if I need to get on their list somehow). It never occurred to me to do that.

Many thanks
Mike

Hi Michael

As David wrote, the UGC tastings are trade/invitation only, so you need a contact to do that.

The tasting where I met these two wines though wasn't UGC but was hosted by the Imstitute of Masters of Wine, in London. It is an annual event and open to all, but ticket price is £100 (cheaper for MWs, MW students, etc). It is I think usually over-subscribed so best to get in early. Usual date is first week of November. You can locate the institute's website using Google easily enough.

Many thanks Chris and David! Much appreciate the information.