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WTN: A too old Alsation and a lesser Barolo

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Ian Sutton

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WTN: A too old Alsation and a lesser Barolo

by Ian Sutton » Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:59 pm

Actually, whilst technically a little too old, the Riesling was way better than two previous bottles and even if the final bottle is in bad shape, I'll not be unhappy with the overall deal. The Barolo was part of a multi-vintage auction purchase (96-99 vintages). Unlike the excellent Produttori del Barbaresco, this co-op has lagged behind. There's typicity, yet little charm or complexity. It is a Barolo, but that's perhaps all it is.

1983 René Muré Riesling Vorbourg Clos Saint Landelin - France, Alsace, Westhalten, Alsace Grand Cru AOC (11/12/2009)
Isn't it just the way... the worst looking cork, yet this very much better than the previous two bottles!

Golden in colour, with a very attractive honey-led nose, but with supporting peach and lemon.

On the palate, a slightly waxy feel, with the fruit more grapefruity (in contrast to the nose), some lemon and almond, with just a hint of the oxidation more prevalent in earlier bottles - at this level it could be accepted as added complexity. Acidity still strong, even a fraction too strong. A very good length finish of relatively light intensity, but with fine complexity.

Overall definitely a winner, but there's no doubt the gamble on such an old bottle is a risky one. An OK gamble if they're cheap (these were less than £6 each), but do have a back-up bottle ready!
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1996 Terre del Barolo Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/11/2009)
Visually showing some age, both in the body of the wine and at the rim - a little more than you'd see from a 1996 vintage from other producers, but not excessively so.

Not showing much on the nose, some low-key herby fruit with a suggestion of woodiness.

On the palate, somewhat austere yet balanced, tannins are firm but don't overly dominate the wine. The fruit is in the background but supported by nicely weighted acidity.

Overall, nothing special and I'm not sure the fruit will outlive the tannins. Perhaps safer to drink now or over the next 3-4 years.
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regards

Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster

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