Notes from last night's dinner at Cicou, the highlight of which was a '63 Taylor VP care of Jojo, who just got back from completing the NY marathon. There were lots of other goodies at the dinner so it was a bit tough keeping up with the seemingly endless stream of wines. While we usually just bring a bottle each for these events, some people couldn't help themselves and brought multiple bottles.
A note on the food - I've been to Cicou a few times and I have to say the food from the regular menu seems uninspired, which is surprising as Chef Cyrille is very talented. However, if asked to do a special menu, as what we had, the results are outstanding. Of particular note was the Duck liver ravioli, mushroom broth, and truffle sauce cappuccino. Easily the dish of the night. It was so good that Keiichi ordered an extra serving. Happily, a less ornate version of this dish is available on the regular menu.
Champagnes with a papilotte of smoked scallop, savoy cabbage, and salmon egg beurre blanc. A good dish but the presentation in the little cellophane bag which the staff had to cut open was weird.
Dom Perignon 1999 - Toasty, coffee, toasted nuts. Deep flavor. Fully mature to my taste. Fresh and not a lot of oxidative notes. A little peppery on the long finish. Complex. Perhaps not an ager but who cares as it's such a great drink now. An excellent DP and much better than the rather weak 2000 vintage of this wine.
Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Rare NV - Very fresh and young , medium-bodied Champagne with a bready, yeasty flavor underneath a great deal of fruit. Good depth of flavor although still rather primal. Lemon rind. Very clean, long finish. An excellent NV that would probably have no trouble aging a few years. On hindsight, this should have been served before the DP as it was a lighter wine.
White Burgundy served with Duck liver ravioli, mushroom broth, and truffle sauce cappuccino. I thought this was a neutral match for the whites but would have loved to try it with the Dom Perignon which, unfortunately, was gone long before this dish was served.
Domaine Chevalier Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2003 - Toasty oak. Very fresh and young. No need to air this as it was immediately approachable. Some nuts and tobacco notes as well. My favorite Burgundy at this dinner.
Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1996 - Subdued oak. While there was a good balance between the fruit and acidity at first, the fruit quickly faded and the acidity became a little harsh. Best to drink up, and quickly!
Louis Jadot Meursault Perrieres 2003 - Very soft, silky, gentle wine. This evolved very slowly in the glass and needed the better part of two hours to show itself and gaining power in the process. Some candy and caramel notes. Very good but could use more time in the bottle.
Since Vince was in town from Vancouver, he naturally insisted on opening a BC wine even if it wasn't part of the program:
Blue Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, Okanagan 2007 - Unmistakable, rather full, New Worldy Pinot. Smoke and strawberries. Medium-dry. Curiously hollow in the mid-palate. Maybe it just needs a little more time to come together.
Bordeaux with choice of duck, beef or lamb. I opted for the lamb fillet coated with herbs, fricassee of vegetables, mashed green pea and parsley foam.
Chateau Angelus 1989 - Very youthful, grainy tannins still apparent. Tobacco, sweet fruit. Not quite ready. This would have no trouble aging a bit more. Excellent now with more upside potential. It would be great to try this again in 3 to 5 years.
Chateau Pichon Lalande 1989 - Sweet, rich, soft, truffle, mushroom, a touch barnyardy. Complex and many-layered. A finish that won't quit. Virtually perfect now. Superb wine and my favorite among the reds.
Chateau La Serre 1994 - Leafy, spicy, quite sweet but it also has lots of acidity. Good wine but a little unbalanced by the acid.
Chateau Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse 1998 - Beautiful nose, like blackcurrant sour candy. Still quite young and unevolved. Not really giving a lot now. Better to try again in 3 years or so.
Chateau Langoa Barton 1997 - Sweet nose, spicy but unbalanced by the high acidity. Seems to lack fruit. Over the hill. Drink this up if you have it.
And a straggler from the Rhone:
Chateau Rayas 2004 - Strawberry and toffee. Really ripe, sweet fruit. Powerful stuff. Dried herbs, hot stones, garrigue. A welcome change after all the Bordeaux. Excellent wine that's showing quite well now but will no doubt continue to gain in complexity.
Port with Stilton, assorted nuts, dried fruit, and a small salad. We were expecting only one port but Bernie, president of the Manila branch of the International Wine and Food Society generously opened 2 additional bottles to the one Jojo brought.
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port1966 - Prune, milk chocolate, bitter chocolate, walnuts, Brandy de Jerez, coffee, dates, ultra sweet and smooth with a slight oxidation giving it a subtle tawny port character. Very complex and round. Brilliant stuff. Outstanding.
Taylor Vintage Port 1963 - Jojo's birth year. Not his birthday but he shared this bottle with us anyway, generous sort that he is. Lots of fruit, raisins, very fresh, grapey even. A hint of wet rag on the otherwise lovely nose. Classic plum and fig. Another outstanding port that hardly seems 46 years old. This could go on and on. I marginally preferred this to the Noval but both ports just great.
We ended with a chocolate fondant, vanilla ice cream and and strawberry and chocolate macaroons.
As the Christmas season approaches, I think we can expect more and more of these incredible dinners.