We tasted tonight (10/28/09) the New Qupe Syrahs:
1.
Qupe CentralCoast Syrah (12.5%) 1995: Med.light slight bricking color; attractive pencilly/cedary/old-
Zin-like slight Rhonish/funky very slight brett/horsecollar some old Syrah fairly complex nose; delicate/
light old-Zin/old Syrah/pencilly/cedary slight blackberry bit bretty/horsecollar/Rhonish slight metallic
complex flavor; med. some earthy/dusty/Rhonish/horsecollar some pencilly/cedary/old Syrah elegant/smooth
fairly complex finish w/ no tannins; still very much alive and a pleasure to drink. $14.30
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2.
Qupe CentralCoast Syrah (13.3%) 1996: Med.light slight bricking color; some old-Zin-like/old-Syrah/
cedary/pencilly bit more blackberry/Syrah clean/no-brett subdued/attractive complex nose; tart slight
bright/blueberry/Syrah slight metallic cedary/pencilly/old-Zin some complex flavor; med.long light/
elegant pencilly/cedary/old Syrah/old-Zin-like complex finish w/little tannins; more fruit and no brett
compared to the '95 but not quite as interesting; attractive old red. $15.00
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2a.
Qupe Syrah CentralCoast (13.5%) 2007: Med.dark color; some bretty/horsecollar clears somewhat to low-
key/blackberry/Syrah bit licorice/pungent some SouthernRhone/funky interesting nose; tart bit lean/tight
some bretty/funky/horsecollar/Rhonish pleasant licorice/blackberry/Syrah slight metallic/tannic/hard
pleasant flavor; med. tart/lean bit hard/tannic/tight some bretty/horsecollar/Rhonish/funky finish;
some brett but not out of hand; seems a bit tight/hard and needs a yr or two. $19.00
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3.
Qupe Syrah SBC (14.2%) 2006: Dark color; strong blackberry/Syrah rather spicy slight alcoholic attractive
straightforward Syrah nose; tart very attractive Syrah/blackberry/spicy restrained very light oak
pleasant flavor; fairly spicy blackberry/Syrah tart attractive finish w/ light tannins; a step up from
the CC Syrah and an attractive spicy/blackberry character; fairly priced at $20.00
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4.
Ethan Syrah CuveeLosAlamos/SBC (150 cs; 14.5%) 2007: Dark color; very attractive blackberry/Syrah/
blueberry quite spicy rather perfumed/fragrant nose; softer rather picy/blueberry/blackberry/Syrah
light oak flavor; fairly lng blueberry/blackberry/Syrah quite spicy light oak finish w/ modest tannins;
a pleasant 4-square Syrah at a good price. $25.00
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5.
Ethan Syrah RanchoSantaRosaVnyd/Sta.RitaHills (100 cs; 13%) 2006: Dark color; some smokey/oak bit Rhonish/
black pepper spicy strong blackberry/Syrah lovely nose; tart rather cracked black pepper/cold-climate/
bit Rhonish strong blackberry/Syrah/spicy light toasty/oak flavor; long very tart black pepper/Rhonish
very spicy/blackberry/Syrah finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs of age; a very good Syrah and
my favorite of the Ethans. $40.00
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6.
Ethan Syrah PurisimaMtnVnyd/SantaYnezVlly (75 cs; 14.5%) 2006: Dark color; very strong blackberry/
boysenberry/Syrah light toasty/oak big Syrah fruit slight earthy nose; softer strong boysenberry/
blackberry/Syrah light toasty/oak bit spicy/earthy flavor; long bit softer balanced/lush blackberry/
boysenberry/Syrah light toasty/oak finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; loads of lush/ripe
Syrah fruit. $40.00
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7.
Qupe Syrah NielsonVnyd/SantaMariaVlly (14.8%) 2006: Very dark color; very strong blackberry/Syrah plummy/
blueberry/black cherry quite spicy bit earthy nose; tart strong black cherry/blackberry/cola/Syrah slight
earthy/plummy quite spicy elegant/balanced flavor; very long tart/racy spicy/black cherry/blackberry/
Syrah finish w/ some tannins; the black cherry component resembles what I often find in the BienNacido
Syrah; a lovely/balanced/spicy Syrah. $35.00
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8.
Qupe Syrah StolpmanVnyd/SantaYnezVlly (14.6%) 2006: Very dark color; very bright/strawberry/blueberry/Syrah
vibrant/floral/perfumed lovely aromatic nose; softer bright/vibrant floral/strawberry/Syrah bit tannic/
tight/backward flavor; very long bright/floral/strawberry/blueberry/Syrah some tannic/tight finish; lovely
floral/strawberry/violets aromatics bit like NorthernRhone w/o the roasted character; needs age. $35.00
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9.
Qupe Syrah AlisosVnyd/SBC (14.6%) 2006: Dark color; strong blackberry/Syrah slight peppery quite spicy
fragrant nose; tarter some tannic/hard/tight peppery/blackberry/Syrah bit more structured quite spicy
flavor; long bit peppery strong blackberry/Syrah rather hard/tannic/tight structured finish; needs more
age but should be a good one. $35.00
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10.
Qupe Syrah PurisimaMtnVnyd/SantaYnezVlly (13.9%) 2006: Dark color; very strong blueberry/blackberry/Syrah
licorice/boysenberry bit smokey/pungent very lush/big Syrah fruit nose; softer big/ripe/lush blackberry/
Syrah/boysenberry ripe slight smokey/pungent flavor; very long softer lush/boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah
big fruit bit smokey/pungent/oak finish w/ some tannins; loads of lush/ripe Syrah fruit; needs age. $35.00
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11.
Qupe Syrah BienNacidoVnyd/SantaMariaVlly (14.0%) 2007: Dark color; strong blackberry/Syrah/spicy/black
cherry/cola slight menthol/spicy lovely nose; slightly tart black cherry/cola/blackberry/Syrah quite spicy
light tannic/oak balanced/restrained slight menthol flavor; long spicy/black cherry/cola/blackberry/Syrah
slight menthol finish w/ modest tannins; classic BN black cherry character; seems a bit tight & closed
and needs more age. $25.00
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12.
Qupe Syrah BienNacidoHillsideEstate (EB; 14.5%) 2005: Very dark color; intense blackberry/Syrah some
roasted/Rhonish/smokey/pungent/coffee some smokey/pungent/toasty/oak fairly complex aromatic nose; tart
lovely smokey/Rhonish/coffee some pungent/toasty/oak rather tannic very strong blackberry/blueberry/
Syrah complex flavor; very long/lingering very strong blackberry/blueberry/Syrah some toasty/oak rather
Rhonish/roasted/coffee fairly tannic finish; needs much age; lots of Rhonish character; terrific Calif
Syrah. Fairly priced at $45.00
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13.
Qupe Syrah BienNacidoHillsideEstate (EB; 14.5%) 2006: Very dark color; more intense blackberry/blueberry/
Syrah some smokey/pungent/toasty/oak less complex quite aromatic nose; bit softer more lush/blackberry/
blueberry/Syrah bit smokey/toasty/charred/oak some tannic/closed quite structured flavor; very long lush/
ripe/blackberry/blueberry/Syrah some taosty/charred/oak/smokey rather tannic finish; badly needs age;
more lush Syrah fruit and less of the pungent/Rhonish character of the '05; killer Syrah with some
age. $45.00
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14.
Qupe Syrah BienNacido X-Block "The Good Nacido" 25'th Anniv/25'th vintage (EB; 14.5%)
2006: Black color; more subtle/complex somewhat roasted/espresso/Rhonish some pencilly/toasty/Francois
Freres/oak restrained/floral/elegant/Syrah bit pungent/smokey complex/aromatic nose; smooth/polished/
elegant restrained spicy/blackberry/blueberry/Syrah some floral/perfumed pencilly/toasty/oak some roasted/
espresso/Rhonish/smokey balanced/elegant bit tannic flavor; very long/lingering roasted/smokey/pungent/
espresso/quite Rhonish complex/floral restrained/balanced strong blueberry/blackberry/Syrah finish w/
some tannins; a powerful perfumed Syrah w/ understated tannins and plenty of balance; an easy 10 yr,
probably 20 yr wine; lovely aromatics and Rhonish character. $100.00
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15.
Melville Estate SantaYnezVlly Estate Syrah (14.5%) 2000: Very dark color; intense ripe/blackberry/
framboise some floral/perfumed bit blatent/toasty/oak attractive nose; tart bit lean/hard/drying out ripe/
framboise/blackberry/Syyrah some toasty/oak somewhat tannic/hard flavor; med.long hard/tannic/drying out
ripe/framboise/blackberry/Syrah some toasty/oak finish; some pretty aromatics but rather hard/tannic
and drying out on the palate. Larry's mystery.
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The usual stuff from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. BienNacidoVnyd: It's interesting to take a look at the BNVnyd WebSite (
www.BienNacidoVineyards.com). It
contains a wealth of information...various blocks in the vnyd, what's planted in them, when they were
planted, what clones & rootstocks, all sorts of geeky stuff.
The X Block, the oldest Syrah block, was planted in '73, 14.2 acres, to Estrella clone on Geneva
DoubleCurtain, and is about the eastern-most block, planted on about a 10% slope nestled up against
the base of the hillside. The first of the HillsideEstate, the Z block, was planted in '91 & '95,
Estrella clone on VSP trellis, about 24 acres worth. Further North up the canyon is the Block 11b,
planted in '97 to Estrella and Clone 99, on VSP, almost 16 acres worth. And then there are a few other
scattered small blocks of Syrah on the vnyd.
It's interesting to do a Google.map on 4705 Santa Maria Mesa Rd, Santa Maria and take a look at the
satellite images of the vnyd. The big/white bldg mid-way up the canyon to the left of the road is the
ABC/Qupe winery. The Hillside blocks are up on the ridgetop just North and East of the wnry, but the
perspective from a gadzillion miles above makes it hard to discern the topology.
Bob thinks the X Block, being the oldest, produces the best Syrah but that eventually the Hillside
blocks, with further vine age, will surpass the X-Block. Apparently vine age trumps terrain in this case.
So....the whole story on Bob & BienNacido. X-Block 7-acres was grafted over to Syrah for Bob in '86,
with first crop coming in '87. That yr, the remaining 7 acres was grafted over to Syrah for Randall/
BonnyDoon. These two are the only wineries that have X-Block under contract. Only in '03/'04, 2 acres of
Bob's X-Block was sold to other wineries, including Summerland.
The original 5 acres of Z-Block (HillsideEstate) were planted for Bob in '92. It was added to in '93
for Ojai and Benzinger. In '95, it was added to for Jaffurs and JohnKerr. Benzinger and Kerr no longer
take from Z-Block; goes to SQN, Ambullneo, KenBrown, Bonaccorsi, and PaulLato.
The 11-Block was planted for Bob in '97; 14 acres of Syrah, 6 acres of Chard, and 6 acres of Pinot
for JimClendenan/ABC. 10-Block was in '97 w/ 5 acres Roussanne, which goes to his HillSideEstate Roussanne.
Two sections of the 11-Block go into CentralCoast, the other blended w/ X-Block to make the BienNacido
Syrah.
There is also 3 acres of Syrah in Block 17, next to the wnry, that goes into CentralCoast. The other
scattered Syrah plantings go to NicholasMiller, Sanguin, MaggieHarrison, and BonnyDoon; which are just
coming on-line.
From '87-'94, all of the X-Block went into the BienNacido Syrah. In '90, Bob started calling it his
BienNacidoReserve. In '90, he went back to the simple BienNacido (no Reserve), because he wanted the
HillsideEstate to be his reserve Syrah, which he started making in '94 from Z-Block.
Whew...things can get soooo complicated.
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2. CentralCoast Syrah: I was expecting both the '95 and the '96 to be pretty much shot. They were not. I
recall that during these vintages, Bob was adding a bit of Lodi old-vine Zin and Carignane to the CC
blend to keep the cost down. I always thought it gave the wines a bit of a funky Rhonish character and
the CC blend didn't have quite the purity of Syrah fruit that his VD Syrahs did. At any rate, both wines
spoke of old Calif red wine, maybe spoke...or whispered...of old Calif Syrah, and were still very much
alive...though more of intellectual interest than of hedonistic interest. Pretty good for a cheap btl
of Calif Syrah.
The '07 version had some brett/horsecollar character that gave it a bit of a Rhonish character.
I rather liked this wine but not sure how it's going to evolve.It seemed a bit tight and tough at this
point in time. This wine was annointed with a 79 by Parker. Seems rather on the low side to me....
but what do I know about Calif Syrah??
The first Qupe Syrah was the '82, labeled PasoRobles, and came from (formerly GaryEberle's) Estrella
RiverVnyds, out on EastSide Paso. It was a wine that drank well even 20 yrs out. This was the only
Syrah that Bob was making, and was eventually switched to the CentralCoast Syrah. He continued to get
these Syrah grapes (ERV was purchased by Beringer in '87, renamed Meridian) until about '89, plus the
Syrah grapes from Laura'sVnyd next door (owned by CliffGiacobine, now part of DerbyVnyds). In the '88-'91
time frame, Bob also got Syrah from ZacaMesaVnyd. In '87, he started getting Syrah from Ibarra-YoungVnyd
(then known as LosOlivosVnyd). He contracted w/ the Millers to plant 5 acres of Syrah in FrenchCamp/
Eastside Paso in '88, getting his first crop in '91. So Paso Syrah has always been an important part
of the CC Syrah. In the '91-'96 vintages, he started using some very good Lodi old-vine Zin and
Carignane, but it was a long way to truck grapes and more SBC Syrah became available.
Presently, the CC Syrah is about 70% SBC, the balance being from Paso; French Camp, CarriageVnyd/
Templeton, and now even Sawyer-Lindquist from EdnaVlly. The SBC vnyds include ColsonCnyn, Chabot/
LosAlamos, MesaVerde/SantaYnemaybe 15 or 20z, and LosAlamosVnyd, plus some from his single-vnyd
sources. At $17/btl, it remains one of the better Syrah bargins around.
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3. As mentioned in Take I, these two tastings were prompted by Parker's recent taking of BobLindquist to
the woodshed on the quality of his wines, given the winemaking talent. Those reviews gave scores in the
the 79-85 range, were for the unreleased '07 Syrahs, w/ this Hillside '06 getting an 89 and the X-block
'06 a 92. BobLindquist labeled the '06 and '07 vintage as quite similar and on the cool side, with his
personal favorite being the '06 vintage by a slight margin. Of these '06 Syrahs, I found them, across
the board, remarkably similar in style and quality; with the HillsideEstate '06 a bit bigger/intenser
and the X-Block a step up in intensity and extract from the other single-vnyd-designate Syrahs, which
showed more balance/elegance/finesse/less oak. But, we are assured, Parker doesn't have a "ParkerPalate"
and equally appreciates those qualities in a wine, other than alcohol/size/extract/power/oak. So those
abysymal scores for the VD Syrahs are a puzzle to me and it doesn't seem like BobLindquist belongs out
in the Parker woodshed, based on these '06 Syrahs. But he's in good company...SteveEdmunds has lived
there for over a yr now. Maybe it's a good place to be??
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4. SBC Syrah: This '06 SantaBarbaraCnty Syrah was a one-of production. Deselected barrels of SV Syrah plus
some barrels of CentralCoast Syrah...PurisimaMtn/ColsonCanyon/BienNacido. It was made originally for
Zachy's, but they didn't take it all...so some is being sold out of the Qupe/LosOlivos tasting room.
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5. EdnaVlly: On the Sawyer-Lindquist Estate in the EdnaVlly, across OrcuttRd from JohnAlban, are 40 acres
that are just coming into production for the Verdad wines (Albarino, GrenacheRose, Tempranillo). It
has 27 acres of Syrah, 6+ acres of Grenache, 3 acres Albarino, 2 acres Tempranillo, and small amount
of PinotNoir and Marsanne. Planted in '05, first crop into '08 Verdad wines. The terroir of Bob's
vnyd is (to my observation) much different from JohnAlban's across the road. It will be interesting
to see how those wines turn out, given the difference in terroir and winemaking style from JohnAlban.
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6. LosAlamosVnyds: This vnyd was planted in the late '70's, just North of LosAlamos, on the hwy to the
Vandenburg back gate (if you've ever seen a night launch from Vandenburg....it's an amazing sight to
behold. Got to see one coming back from TheHitchingPost/Casmalia w/ BobSenn one night...not sure how
much the consumed wine at HP contributed to the experience, though), by SamHale. He was a LosAngles/
SantaMinica attourney type. The wine was made in an old dairy barn there by MaryVigorosa, a slip of a
grandmotherly lady in her late 70's/early 80's, when I met her.
JimClendenan & AdamTolmach started AuBonClimat there in '82, and made their wine there until '88,
when Sam sold LAVnyds to Franzia/CorbettCanyon. It is now owned by SilveradoPartners. Bob only got
Syrah from there in '07, very good Syrah he thought, but it was grafted over to Pinot in '08. Bob, Jim,
and Adam moved into the wnry facility on BienNacidoVnyd in '89. Adam eventually left when he completed
his wnry down in Ojai.
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7. StolpmanVnyd: Way back when, when we were just starting to see Syrahs come out of the StolpmanVnyd;
I opined that I had not seen anything yet that would lead me to label Stolpman a "great" Calif Syrah
vnyd...but that I thought it had a lot of potential. TomStolpman came on-line and urged me to rethink
my position. After taking a lot more data points since that time, I guess I would not label Stolpman
a "great" Syrah. Not quite yet...but getting close.
Stolpman is one of the older Syrah vnyds in SantaYnezVlly. Farmed by JeffNewton....one of the very
best in the SYVlly. Planted primarily to Estrella and Durell clones, I believe. Just to the East of
SteveBeckman's PurisimaMtn vnyd. By and large, I really like most of the Syrahs that come from here.
They always seem to have a lot of aromatics and floral/strawberry character. That was evident, in spades,
in this Qupe version. SashiMoorman has been making some very/very good ones from this EstateVnyd under
the Stolpman label.
That said...I think maybe, down the road, Stolpman may be better known for...Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
Time will tell.
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8. Of the standard SingleVnyd-designate/non-Reserve Syrahs; I pretty much liked them across the board, but
for different reasons. The Stolpman for its perfume & aromatics, the Purisima for its lush/ripe Syrah
fruit, the Alisos for its more classic SantaBarbara Syrah/pepper character. The BN '07 was the least
interesting of the lot, but I suspect because of its younger age and it will evolve a lot.
These S-V Syrahs are not dramatic statements of power/oak and gobs of hedonistic fruit. They are
more about balance and elegance annd restraint. The conventional Monkton wisdom is that you need gobs
of hedonistic fruit, big tannins and extraction, lots of oak to withstand the test of time. My limited
experience w/ Calif Syrah suggests that balance is an unheralded component of a wine that is necessary
for long aging. Though these wines may be underwhelming now, compared w/ some SantaBarbara Syrahs,
based on my experience w/ Qupe Syrahs, these will be wonderful/beautiful/complex Syrahs ten yrs down
the road, maybe 15 or 20. I'll be there, fer sure, to report back.
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9. HillSide Syrahs: Of these two, the '05 was my clear favorite because of its stronger Rhonish character.
The '06 seemed a bit tight and closed and clearly needs more time. Hard to tell which will be the better
down the road.
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10. X-Block: Amazing wine. A classic Qupe Syrah w/ loads of NorthernRhone character. This is how they would
make Syrah in Hermitage if Chave took lessons from Bob. Though a big/powerful Syrah, t shows a lot of
balance and elegance and polish for such a young wine. There are very few Calif Syrahs in this price range
that I would buy. Based on the Qupe track record, I'm in on this one.
Tom