The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:29 am

Yesterday, the 4th November 2009, was Jay Labrador's birthday so he treated a bunch of the Usual Suspects to a wine lunch at a nice Japanese restaurant called Toki. We were 8 in all. Miguel and I arrived the same time as J-Lab, with Arnie, Keiichi (whose birthday it also was) and Greg close behind, so the celebrant started pouring us some palate-priming glasses of Piper Heidsieck Champagne Brut (a bubbly that I've posted notes on several times recently, so there is no need to repeat further)...

Image

...and offered a toast to J-Lab's continued health and happiness. For purposes of this post, unless otherwise indicated, the bottles were J-Lab's.

Image

Platters of assorted sushis and other appetizers started making their way to the table by the time Vancouver Vince arrived, including one I've never had before made of tamago and unagi - very nice, something I'm sure also my kids would like.

Image

This was an obvious hit with the group. Seeing how Arnie viciously attacked it, I'm certainly thankful I wasn't born an eel (or in an egg, for that matter).

Image

I ordered for myself a Platter of Sashimi...

Image

...an Ikura Chawan Mushi...

Image

...and a bowl of Hot Udon with Tempura (which I forgot to take a photo of). With all these and the others' repective courses, we enjoyed many wines, including a second champagne from our generous host which I enjoyed with my sashimi.

Image

Champagne Devaux Grande Reserve Brut NV - From the village of Aube, canton of Bar-sur-Seine, near Troyes, run by the large cooperative of growers called L'Union Auboise Des Producteurs De Vin De Champagne based in the late 19th century Domaine de Villeneuve, a protected historical building. As far as research goes, I understand that this non-vintage bubbly is 66% pinot noir and the rest chardonnay.

This bubbly shows its dominant pinot noir in its comparatively greater heft (vis-a-vis the Piper Heidsieck Brut NV) and much more pronounced, creamier apple and pear middle. Much less citrus in this, with nicely integrated, mildly toasty oak, and the mouthfeel is more generous and round. Very nice value champagne indeed.

We also enjoyed some 2008 Itsas Mendi Nº7 Txakoli from Miguel with the assorted sushi. We each gave J-Lab a bottle of this dry but slightly fruitier style of txakoli so he could share one during lunch and take the other home for another time.

Image
(File photo, since I also forgot to take a picture of the one yesterday)

Image

Image

1990 Domaine Paul Misset Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru - From Keiichi. A mature, few notches over medium-bodied Burgundy from a grand cru clos I know pretty well, and an excellent year to boot. It turns out that the Misset family, together with the Cheron family, used to be the long-term landlords (50 years) of at least part of Domaine Daniel Rion's exploited plots in Clos Vougeot until the lease ended in 1994, the particular parcel of which is situated mid-slope on the side of Vosne-Romanée (the best plots are higher up, near the Château du Clos de Vougeot).

The wine was still in quite good shape, expressive, showing off sous bois-infused sweetish-tartish cherry, raspberry, preserved tamarind over dark fruit, old violets, balsamico and woody notes. Good typicity. Though not particularly impressive, I truly enjoyed this wine - its flavors and texture stuck well in my mind.

Image

1998 Château Dassault - Greg's bottle, from St-Emilion and a generally stellar year for the right bank. The Dassault family also owns and runs the lesser-known La Fleur Merissac in the same appellation, as well as a large conglomerate with diverse business interests that include aircraft manufacture and art auction.

This wine was, to me, probably the best of the lunch. Softly earthy/loamy, comforting, halfway between medium and full-bodied, seemingly more dark fruit than red, plum, cedar, violets with submerged nuances of tobacco and pencil shavings. Comes off as masculine. Notable balance, good length. I could easily call this elegant. Liked it a lot.

Image Image

Image

2004 Maison Leroy Bourgogne - The négoçiant bottling, not the declassified higher crus of the domaine. I've had this before from the Stockbroker, with J-Lab, Miguel, Rene and PWX's Larraine Lim over lunch back in early April this year. Truth to tell, after the first 2 reds, this leaner basic bourgogne was a bit difficult to switch to. Thus, I leave you with my previous notes from the menioned lunch.

2004 Maison Leroy Bourgogne - The Stockbroker's bottle. For those not familiar with the maker, Maison Leroy (pronounced "luhr-wah") is a négoçiant firm owned and run by Burgundy's queen, Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy. Aside from Maison Leroy, she owns and runs, amongst others, Domaine Leroy, whose wines are the only real rivals, in terms of price, to those of the legendary Domaine Romanée Conti - the latter being partly-owned by Madame Bize-Leroy.

Typical of Burgundy reds, this is 100% pinot noir, and being from her négoçiant firm, the grapes were carefully selected and sourced from assorted growers/vineyards other than those owned by Domaine Leroy itself. This wine, after aerating in my glass for around 25 minutes or so, is light and lean, but with flavors that bely its body.

Somewhat straightforward raspberry, black cherry, touches of sour cherry, bit of wood, with a touch of dark spice and a faint, intriguing underlying nuance that vaguely reminds me of red champoy and haw flakes. Very entertaining and quite nice for a basic bourgogne (also available at Premium Wine Exchange for around P4000 more-or-less).

More bottles and more laughs...J-Lab then opened an aged Loire chenin blanc.

Image

1996 Domaine de la Charrière (Joël Gigou) - from the Jasnières/Coteaux du Loir (a little over 40 kms. north-northwest of Tours), the exact bottling of which is uncertain as the label was gone and J-Lab could no longer remember what designation this was. Bright, piercing/thrilling acidity balances off clean, whitely floral and minerally honeyed quince, pears with an underlying note of tarte citron. There is great purity in this wine, excellent focus and impressive length. I'd guess this is their Jasnières Clos St-Jacques bottling.

Image

2001 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile - I know I've had this before, but, as the song goes, I can't remember where or when, and I can't find the verve to dig through my notes. I must say I really like the way Trimbach does their rieslings much more than they do their gewürztraminers which are, so far, to me, never as interesting or compelling.

Another pure, clean, well-focused, minerally white, this displayed fresh, off-dry lemon and citrus with slight honeycomb and just the merest suggestion of the beginnings of goût de pétrole. A very good wine indeed now that has a long life and a lot of up-side development ahead of it.

I imagine the two, immediately above mentioned wines could have done nicely with the complementary fruit desserts the restaurant sent J-Lab and Keiichi. Of course, Greg none-too-subtly hinted that the dessert looked great, so Keiichi gamely passed the former some of his - which Greg, in fairness, shared with Arnie.

Image

It was an incredibly fun lunch with great food, wines and company - not to mention all the laughter. Many thanks, J-Lab, and, again, happy birthday. We all wish you many more to come.

Image
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10884

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:44 pm

Great post as always Noel. Two very good whites there imo, the Loire especially.
No Stockbroker this time around!

I found this for you......>

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/valduloir_gigou.htm
no avatar
User

Dave R

Rank

On Time Out status

Posts

1924

Joined

Sun Jan 27, 2008 3:07 pm

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Dave R » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:20 pm

As always, great notes and photos. Your sashimi looks wonderful. What is the stuff behind the lemons that looks like peanut butter?
Conjunction Junction, what's your function?
Hooking up words and phrases and clauses.
Conjunction Junction, what's your function?
Hooking up cars and making 'em function.
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:27 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Great post as always Noel. Two very good whites there imo, the Loire especially.
No Stockbroker this time around!

I found this for you......>

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/valduloir_gigou.htm


Thanks, Bob. The Stockbroker is in NYC now, he ran in the recent marathon. I just wish I knew for sure which bottling that '96 was.
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

9717

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:20 pm

Location

New York, NY

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Rahsaan » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:29 pm

Dave R wrote:What is the stuff behind the lemons that looks like peanut butter?


Looks like uni/sea urchin.

Nice meal and nice selection of wines. Especially the Gigou. Not a common wine. Glad it was drinking well and sounds delicious.
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:32 pm

Dave R wrote:As always, great notes and photos. Your sashimi looks wonderful. What is the stuff behind the lemons that looks like peanut butter?


Thanks, Dave. That is uni (the edible part of the sea urchin) behind the lemons.
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:42 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Dave R wrote:What is the stuff behind the lemons that looks like peanut butter?


Looks like uni/sea urchin.

Nice meal and nice selection of wines. Especially the Gigou. Not a common wine. Glad it was drinking well and sounds delicious.


Hi, Rahsaan.

Thanks. Yes, uni, you beat me to it. It was a very good lunch indeed! Definitely the Gigou is not easy to find. I've been looking for more of vintage '96 and haven't had any luck so far.

N
no avatar
User

Jay Labrador

Rank

J-Lab's in da house!

Posts

1352

Joined

Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:34 am

Location

Manila, Philippines

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Jay Labrador » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:47 pm

Noel,

Thanks for taking the notes. You may have noted I wasn't writing in my notebook as I was enjoying myself too much. You noted the off-dry and honeycomb on the Trimbach. The little white decal on the front came off, but this was a Vendange Tardive. It's also noted on the back label.

Jay
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
no avatar
User

Mark Lipton

Rank

Oenochemist

Posts

4595

Joined

Wed Mar 22, 2006 1:18 pm

Location

Indiana

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Mark Lipton » Thu Nov 05, 2009 3:45 pm

Thanks very much for the notes and photos, Noel, and Happy Birthday, Jay! I must say that you gents certainly know how to have a good time there in the Philippines. I've got to figure out a way to get out there some day.

Mark Lipton
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

9717

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:20 pm

Location

New York, NY

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Rahsaan » Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:33 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:I must say that you gents certainly know how to have a good time there in the Philippines. I've got to figure out a way to get out there some day.


Especially given the foundational aspect of the cuisine :wink: (Inside joke, sorry folks)

But, on a more serious note, can you suddenly develop a reason to study unique chemicals only found in the Philippines? Or do chemicals not work that way!

After learning Wolof and doing his first book on democracy in Senegal, one of my colleagues decided that he wanted to study election monitoring in the Philippines. So in his late 30s he taught himself Tagalog and has been going there consistently for the past few years. Writing a few books and such. He claims he's not very good with languages, but I suppose it's all in the motivation.
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:48 pm

Jay Labrador wrote:Noel,

Thanks for taking the notes. You may have noted I wasn't writing in my notebook as I was enjoying myself too much. You noted the off-dry and honeycomb on the Trimbach. The little white decal on the front came off, but this was a Vendange Tardive. It's also noted on the back label.

Jay


Well, there you go. I didn't notice that you weren't scribbling away as you do usually, but I figured that out since you haven't posted any notes yet.

Re: the Trimbach, I just copied what was on the label. Actually, I magnified the picture of the label but couldn't find any indication of VT. I suspected as much because of the sweetness, but, in such cases, i really just rely on the label. Not seeing any VT indicator, I just copied as-is. I knew you wouldn't have served a dry riesling for dessert anyway, that goes without saying really.

It was a very fun lunch, buddy. Many thanks again. You must tell me how you survived dinner a few hours after.

Mark Lipton wrote:Thanks very much for the notes and photos, Noel, and Happy Birthday, Jay! I must say that you gents certainly know how to have a good time there in the Philippines. I've got to figure out a way to get out there some day.

Mark Lipton


You must make sure to let us know if ever you find your way here!

Rahsaan wrote:Especially given the foundational aspect of the cuisine :wink: (Inside joke, sorry folks)

But, on a more serious note, can you suddenly develop a reason to study unique chemicals only found in the Philippines? Or do chemicals not work that way!

After learning Wolof and doing his first book on democracy in Senegal, one of my colleagues decided that he wanted to study election monitoring in the Philippines. So in his late 30s he taught himself Tagalog and has been going there consistently for the past few years. Writing a few books and such. He claims he's not very good with languages, but I suppose it's all in the motivation.


He wants to study election monitoring here? Hoo boy. He'll be in for a surprise. I actually did a bit of that for a friend when he ran for congress many years ago. It's pretty wild. Good luck to your friend.

Best to all,

N
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

9717

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:20 pm

Location

New York, NY

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Rahsaan » Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:54 pm

Noel Ermitano wrote:He wants to study election monitoring here? Hoo boy. He'll be in for a surprise.


Well, he actually chose the Philippines because of the ways in which election monitoring (and other electoral reforms) have led to worse democratic outcomes. And unlike myself and Mark who might be motivated by the food, he chose the Philippines because apparently they are one of the classic cases of this problem.

Here is the first book he wrote on the topic:

http://www.cornellpress.cornell.edu/cup ... ti_id=4839
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:07 am

Rahsaan wrote:Well, he actually chose the Philippines because of the ways in which election monitoring (and other electoral reforms) have led to worse democratic outcomes. And unlike myself and Mark who might be motivated by the food, he chose the Philippines because apparently they are one of the classic cases of this problem.

Here is the first book he wrote on the topic:

http://www.cornellpress.cornell.edu/cup ... ti_id=4839


Next year is an election year here and we have been slowly moving towards full computerization of the process. This year, during recent registration/re-registration (related to the move to computerization), there were a lot of complaints of disenfranchisement anew (it always happens). What was funny was that, in some news reports, complaints ranged from early closure of registration/re-registration stations to certain stations charging people for the reg forms (which they are not supposed to do). The circus starts early this year....
no avatar
User

Jenise

Rank

FLDG Dishwasher

Posts

44978

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:45 pm

Location

The Pacific Northest Westest

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Jenise » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:42 am

Great notes. Re the Gigou--yes the label's missing, but more than that, the place where the label was looks quite scarred and grimey. Is that just what happens in the humidity down there?

Happy birthday to Jay!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
no avatar
User

Jay Labrador

Rank

J-Lab's in da house!

Posts

1352

Joined

Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:34 am

Location

Manila, Philippines

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Jay Labrador » Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:22 am

Jenise wrote:Great notes. Re the Gigou--yes the label's missing, but more than that, the place where the label was looks quite scarred and grimey. Is that just what happens in the humidity down there?

Happy birthday to Jay!


Thanks! The bottle was kept in a Eurocave for about 10 years. I have no idea why the label disappeared but yes, the humidity isn't kind to the labels. I've got a couple of Penfolds (389, 707, St Henri, Grange) all with deteriorating labels.
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
no avatar
User

Kyrstyn Kralovec

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

616

Joined

Mon Nov 20, 2006 3:50 pm

Location

Washington DC, Oregon bound

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:33 pm

Very nice notes and beautiful pictures! Happy Belated Birthday, Jay:-)
I swear, by my life and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine. ~John Galt
no avatar
User

James Dietz

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1236

Joined

Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:45 pm

Location

Orange County, California

Re: Jay Labrador's Birthday Wine Lunch.

by James Dietz » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:39 pm

Great report.. and it's clear you guys enjoy drinking and eating (and doing both very well!!) together.... bravo!!
Cheers, Jim

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot, Amazonbot, Apple Bot, Babbar, ByteSpider, ClaudeBot, Google AgentMatch and 0 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign