by Michael Malinoski » Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:58 pm
David, thanks for the thoughts on 3 very nice '98's. I've had a chance to drink each of them over the past year or so, and I agree with your thoughts. One minor thing I might say is that, based on my own observations only, I might put the Vieux Donjon ahead of the Beaucastel in terms of being the most brooding. The Beaucastel in my experience seems to be coming around the last two times I've tried it after several tough showings before that. Obviously, they both need more time, which I think is probably the main point. The Bosquet des Papes ought to be drunk pretty soon, though, as you suggest, since it is so lovely and ready to be enjoyed now. I can still remember the flavor and personality of that wine 18 months later...
Just some notes for context:
1998 Bosquet des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape. (From March 2008) Sporting the lightest color of the flight, this wine features a pretty, elegant and moderately mature nose of soft leather, violets and powdery spearmint countered by notes of beets, dried blood and meat lurking deeper down. It seems traditionally-styled as it folds in aromas of mulled orange peel, soft caramel and persimmon. I really like the complexity and maturity this is showing on the nose. In the mouth, it doesn’t have the weight or the concentration of fruit of the previous two wines and is probably showing a bit more mature than its vintage date. The fruit is clean and tangy, with cranberry, black raspberry, tea and chalky flavors. The tannins are well-resolved through the middle, but still gently coat the palate toward the finish. Overall, it is drinking well now but seems to be on a relatively fast track.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape. (From March 2008) This should have been given a more aggressive decanting—my bad. Still, it shows great promise and could use another 10 years in the cellar. The nose is like a black hole of dark berries, black currants, smoke, black shoe leather and black earth, with just a hint of bell pepper and dried stems. This heart of darkness theme carries into the mouth, where it is dark and brooding and dense. The gorgeous texture is like a velvet-covered easy chair on the palate, especially when married to the pillowy tannins that come on strong as the evening moves along. It really fills the mouth with its black fruits, lava and spice flavors. The finish is very long and spicy and really leaves a promising impression.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape. (From June 2008) The nose is brooding and introspective for the most part, offering glimpses of meaty plums, roasted dark fruits, bridle leather, dark caramel and a bit of earth. In the mouth, it is pretty intense, with a big hit of spiciness and lush fruits. However, there is a hint of alcoholic warmth throughout for me, and the wine seems to shut down a bit on the finish, where soft tannins tickle the tongue. To me, this was drinking very tight and not showing much. I may have been alone in this assessment, but I was left wanting more. Regardless, it seems clear that this needs at least another 5 years in the cellar.
1998 Château de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. (From March 2009) I’ve had some poor experiences with this vintage of Beaucastel in the past, but this bottle was the best I’ve experienced to date. It features an excellent bouquet of fresh strawberries, macerated cherries, orange peel, aged bridle leather, soy and balsamic notes that come together in a pretty sexy package that also hints at some fine barnyard funk. In the mouth, it is seamless and richly-fruited, with soft sweet raspberry and chocolate flavors surrounded by fruitcake spices and oak accents. The oak is a bit strong and the tannins are definitely present, but the wine is giving and richly characterful.
