. The other bottles opened varied from very acceptable to good, with particular mention of chameleon type showing of the white Burgundy, Saint-Romain, according to the pairings.Coteaux du Languedoc “Les Cailloutis” 1995 – Mas Jullien – Alc.13.5% -surprised me by its relative lightness, puzzling in a usually quite full bodied and structured vintage; having got used to the slim line, however, I greatly enjoyed its lightly complex aromas of cherry, anis and Southern herbs and long, harmonious shape on the palate; 16/20. The superb 1989 was much fuller bodied and more complete.
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico “Casal dei Cavalieri” 2008 – Umani Ronchi – Alc.12% had some of the usual Verdicchio CdJ white floral aromas, white fruit and tender meatiness together with lively acidity, minerality and a gently saline finish; the back label talks of almonds which I didn’t get but their salt was there; very nice 15.5/20++.
Savennières “L’Enclos” 2006 – Éric Morgat – Alc.14% was my first bottle from this estate (other than sips and spits) but I hope far from my last. There were aromas of burnished pear and quince with mineral touches and the palate was dry but not bone dry giving the opulent impression of a sweet wine trying to burst out; fruit substance was rich, complex and somewhat burnished but with enough acidity and minerality for balance, body was quite full, mouth-fill was impressive and the finish had backbone and was long; this is a great success for a difficult year and I am now keen to taste what he achieves in a year with livelier acidity like 2007 and 2008; 16.5/20++.
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie – Canon Fronac – 1999 – Alc.12.5%, usually at excellent Saint-Émilion ringer, should, I think, have been drunk two or so years ago; quite full bodied and deep, smooth textured, dark fruited and chocolatey but short on minerality and freshness without yet the compensation of secondary development, e.g. forest floor aromas; it might, though, have been better with a more gamey dish than the chicken which we served; 15.5/20.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Clos de la Pucelle 1996 – Domaine Jean Chartron was badly premoxed (sherry aromas) and was thin and acidic to boot; undrinkable and even useless for cooking.
In reserve for just this eventuality was Saint-Romain 2001 – Henri Boillot (W) – alc. 13%, which was fortunately free of premox, but was unexciting with its delicious “barbue” (flat fish) pairing showing some nice white fruit but a rather coarsely creamy vanilla type of fleshiness, which verged on cloying, and muted minerality; with goat cheese, however, it sprang into life with much better balance, the creaminess receding and the minerality enhanced. This was a fascinating illustration of how pairings can change perceptions; hardly 15/20 with the fish; 16/20 with the cheese.
