2007 Margerum 'Sybarite', Santa Ynez, California
Named for the luxury-seeking ancient Greeks of Sybaris, this opulently flavorful Sauvignon Blanc, blended from four Santa Ynez vineyards, stunned us both with its ability to be so excellent while not being anything either of us normally expects, wants or would have thought to ask for from this grape. It New Zealandish, but not quite. It's Pur Sangish, but not quite. It's even chardonnayish, but not quite. Everything about it is intense, almost over the top--but again, not quite. There's the New Zealand tangerine thing, there's the bracing minerality of a good Pouilly Fume, there are the green apples and slate of white burgundy, yet there's slightly-underripe mango and pear and tonic water and I don't think, blind, I'd have ever guessed what I was drinking. What a wine!