WTN: 1998 Roagna Barbaresco Pajé

1998 Roagna Barbaresco Pajé DOCG 13.5%
This is selling for $40 at Chambers, irresistible for a cru Barbaresco with this amount of age, from a traditional producer whose nebbiolos tend to be undrinkable young due to fierce tannins, the result of inordinately long macerations (in some cases up to 100 days). At age 11, this should be entering drinkability, but I found this to need more time, perhaps much more. After a nearly four hour decant, aromas are muted, with some cherry and eucalyptus on a mist of alcohol. Before food, very tannic, but not excessively so. Surprisingly hot, since 13.5% is not that high; alcohol not yet well integrated. Good density, acidity and sweetness in balance. The taste is suggestive of stems, so it's easy to surmise whole cluster fermentation. After some melted camembert with herbs, the tannins are smothered and it becomes almost sweet. As the palate adapts to the cheese, the tannins make a gritty comeback. In short, nowhere near as pleasing as the 1996 Barolo La Rocca e Pira from a few weeks ago. The primaries have dwindled and the secondaries have yet to bloom.

At age 11, this should be entering drinkability...

Really? Says who? I'm no expert but what I've tasted from this producer has not exactly been forward.

I don't have much Roagna experience, some 93s and 95s when there was the distributor closeout couple of years ago. Those were drinking well, seemed traditional, had life left. For me, the only 98s I am drinking are from more modern styled producers- I have no Roagna, but don't plan on looking at my Marcarinis for a few more years. For me, the Piedmont vintages of 90s that are for drinking now are 93 & 95 (and the rare good 91 like Bartolo M), I'll probably go for 97 next, then 98, then 99 & 96. All generalizations of course, within every vintage there's a spectrum.

Oswaldo and or Dale, do either of you have much experience with the 1996's from the Produttori del Barbaresco? I have 1 -2 each of the single vineyards Asilli, Rio Sordo, Pora, and Monetstefano. I opened one a couple years ago at Mo'Cool and while tight it was more than simply drinkable. I have little experience with the better Barbaresco wines so am wondering how long the 96's will go. Thanks.

At age 11, this should be entering drinkability...

Really? Says who? I'm no expert but what I've tasted from this producer has not exactly been forward.

Their 96 Barolo La Rocca e Pira was singing (for our supper) three weeks ago, so I figured a Barbaresco two years younger from the same producer (and from perhaps a slightly less stellar vintage) might be at a similar point now.

Oswaldo and or Dale, do either of you have much experience with the 1996's from the Produttori del Barbaresco? I have 1 -2 each of the single vineyards Asilli, Rio Sordo, Pora, and Monetstefano. I opened one a couple years ago at Mo'Cool and while tight it was more than simply drinkable. I have little experience with the better Barbaresco wines so am wondering how long the 96's will go. Thanks.

I really like the 96 Produttori wines, but only one I have in the Montestefano Riserva. Personally I was planning on waiting several more years. That said, the most recent CT note says "fully mature and no tannin" which surprises me (and one a few months before says tight and needs at least 3-5 years). Between bottle and taster variation, not much help there!

Oswaldo and or Dale, do either of you have much experience with the 1996's from the Produttori del Barbaresco? I have 1 -2 each of the single vineyards Asilli, Rio Sordo, Pora, and Monetstefano. I opened one a couple years ago at Mo'Cool and while tight it was more than simply drinkable. I have little experience with the better Barbaresco wines so am wondering how long the 96's will go. Thanks.

No experience, but I'll try to remember to ask when I'm there a week from tomorrow.

Their 96 Barolo La Rocca e Pira was singing (for our supper) three weeks ago, so I figured a Barbaresco two years younger from the same producer (and from perhaps a slightly less stellar vintage) might be at a similar point now.

Ah. The joy of wine

Enjoy your trip to Piedmont, there should be a lot more of this over there!

At age 11, this should be entering drinkability...

Really? Says who? I'm no expert but what I've tasted from this producer has not exactly been forward.

Well, not producer related (the only Roagna's I've had have been from 2004 and they all seemed 'rough' and old-school to me, in not the best way...), but the few 1998 Piedmont's I've had have been very open and accesible. Out of all the vintages from 1996-now, I've felt this has been the most drinkable (mind you, I don't really 'do' 97's, oo's or 03's, all of which could easily qualify as well).

Oswaldo and or Dale, do either of you have much experience with the 1996's from the Produttori del Barbaresco? I have 1 -2 each of the single vineyards Asilli, Rio Sordo, Pora, and Monetstefano. I opened one a couple years ago at Mo'Cool and while tight it was more than simply drinkable. I have little experience with the better Barbaresco wines so am wondering how long the 96's will go. Thanks.

Hi, Bob, I asked Luca Cravanzola at Produttori and he said the 1996 single vineyards should peak at 13 to 18 years of age, after which tertiaries ("truffles and mushrooms") will become prominent up to the age of 30.

Hi, Bob, I asked Luca Cravanzola at Produttori and he said the 1996 single vineyards should peak at 13 to 18 years of age, after which tertiaries ("truffles and mushrooms") will become prominent up to the age of 30.

Oswaldo,

Thank you for checking this out for me. and for going to the top for the information. Looks as if I will be holding on to what few I have of the 96's. I suppose you were able to taste some of Prduttori wines while you were there? I see some of the 2000 Mocagatta, locally priced at $45 per, and I will probably pick up a couple of them. The only problem for me is that at my age, I might have to drink them before they reach their apex. But what the heck, that isn't a huge problem, now is it?

Hi, Bob, I asked Luca Cravanzola at Produttori and he said the 1996 single vineyards should peak at 13 to 18 years of age, after which tertiaries ("truffles and mushrooms") will become prominent up to the age of 30.

Oswaldo,

Thank you for checking this out for me. and for going to the top for the information. Looks as if I will be holding on to what few I have of the 96's. I suppose you were able to taste some of Prduttori wines while you were there? I see some of the 2000 Mocagatta, locally priced at $45 per, and I will probably pick up a couple of them. The only problem for me is that at my age, I might have to drink them before they reach their apex. But what the heck, that isn't a huge problem, now is it?

I hope to post my trip report later today or tomorrow and you'll see that we had some disappointments with "middle aged" nebbiolos. A 99 Produttori Pajé, a 99 Moccagatta Basarin and a 2000 La Spinetta Starderi were all too young. I got the general sense that either one should drink them for the primaries (2003/4 or more recent) or older than 1996. Luca Roagna said that 96 in half bottle should be fine but not 96 in full bottle. Argh!