Espace Vin Pirard, our nearest serious wine merchant, prides itself on its value for money (QPR) range. I present some highlights from its Autumn tasting. A lot of the reds were from the 2007 and those from the Atlantic side of France tended to be more angular and slim-line than usual but also refreshing and approachable for early drinking; 2007 and 2008 whites mostly appear to be excellent.
Domaine de La Meulière, Chablis
The owners are called Laroche but “nothing to do with Michel Laroche” he hastened to add and “you haven’t missed anything by not having met him” as he went on to talk with relish about Michel’s financial problems (denied in a ML blog). This Laroche is a believer in “lutte raisonnée” and one of the few remaining Chablisien growers to practice manual harvests; he goes as far as to attribute premox to mechanical harvesting which IMO is debatable; for example my brown Fourchaume 96s from Boudin were made at a time when he was still practicing manual harvesting.
As this was my first table approached with sweet breakfast after-tastes still in my mouth disturbing my appreciation of balance, I don’t rate these wines but perceived subtle variations of good acidity, white floral aromas, minerals and saline touches with some rawness on the first.
Chablis 2008 (€11)
1er cru Mont de Milieu 2007 (€19)
1er cru Fourchaume 2007 (€19)
Domaine de Courteillac, Ruch, Bordeaux Supérieur
This is a dependable estate which regularly producers Saint-Émilion ringers, 70% Merlot, 20% CabSauv, 10% Cab franc, punching well above the weight of their price point and appellation. I had a disagreement on vocabulary with owner Dominique Meneret who objected when I described the 2007 as more angular and less round than the 2006; I discovered that where I say “round” (rond) he prefers “dense” and “angular” (anguleux) implies for him tannins with which 2006 more endowed albeit riper and better covered. I persist with my vocabulary.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2007 (€10) showed more acid edge to its aromas that usual and slimmer body but the fruit is expressive, acidity good and tannic structure present though lighter and more angular than the next; 14.5/20++.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2006 (€10) was rounder, richer and denser with fine fruit opening up and well covered tannic structure; 15.5/20++ QPR!
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie, Fronsac
This is another estate producing reliable Saint-Émilion ringers on a slightly higher level (and price) than Courteillac. Varietal composition is Merlot 95%, Malbec 5%.
Canon-Fronsac 2004 (€15) showed rich fruit aromas with a touch of jam and medium/full body with dark fruit, good acid freshness and structure with just a hint of greenness; still needs more time; 15.5/20 now.
Canon-Fronsac 2005 (€17) had aromas which were richer and more complex but also less jammy than 2004’s; it was unfinished business to open up on the palate which was clearly better balanced, deeper, more structured, longer and without the green touch of its predecessor; 16.5/20 QPR.
I am planning to open a 1999 for dinner this evening.
Clos des 4 Vents, Margaux
Luc Thienpont is a regular at these events; sadly he had to sell his excellent Château Labégorce-Zédé for family reasons. He retained the following which are also pretty good at their price points.
Bordeaux “Z” de Luc Thienpont 2007 (€8) is a reliable QPR Merlot dominated blend which in this vintage is more slim-line and acidic than usual but still enjoyable; 14.5/20.
Villa des 4 Soeurs, Margaux 2007 (€17), 50% CabSauv, balance Merlot, Cabfranc and PV, was rounder and meatier than the previous but still showing some undernourishment compared with my memory of 2006; 14.5/20++.
Clos des 4 Vents, Margaux 2007 (€39) seemed to rise above the vintage’s limitations showing a density and concentration allied to a delicate fragrance and structure which allowed it already to dominate its 100% new wood; should become very good 16/20++.
Domaine des Roches-Neuves, Varrains, Saumur-Champigny
The estate was represented by the enthusiastic and articulate Thierry Germain. The estate has changed its philosophy completely to privilege minerality and fruit purity; the last vintage to see new wood was 2004. The first wine is Saumur from Chenin blanc and the rest are Saumur-Champigny from Cabernet franc.
(W) L’Insolite 2008 (€14) was a miracle of freshness, fruit purity (some citrus) and minerality with excellent length; 16.5/20++ QPR!!
Domaine des Roches Neuves 2007 (€9), the basic cuvée, followed the pattern of being more slim-line than my memory of 2006 but showed attractive freshness of fruit and minerality; 15/20+.
Terres Chaudes 2007 (€17) showed somewhat reductive aromas on the nose but was more floral and ample on the palate than Roches Neuves; if the reduction dissipates 15.5/20.
La Marginale 2006 (€25) was on a different level of elegance, depth, structure and complexity with an almost creamy touch to its fruit and fine minerality; needs more time for full expression 16.5/20.
Domaine de Beaurenard, Châteauneuf du Pape
This estate is classed as a modernist but I like their wines and find them very reliable. As usual the wines were presented by M. Coulon. They are all Grenache dominated to varying degrees.
Côtes du Rhône 2006 (€8) is a fine generic with lovely aromas of tangy prunes and raspberry and a generously full-bodied palate with good grip; 15.5/20++ QPR!
CDRV Rasteau 2007 (€12); I have already written enthusiastically about this wine for its spicy and deep tarry generosity; I did notice that on hot summer evenings a certain candied undertow developed but there was none of that here; 16/20++ QPR!
CDRV Rasteau “Les Argiles Bleues” 2006 (€19) was more complex with additional minerality, herbal notes and freshness (I understand the hype about 2007 but the 2006s here score by greater freshness); 16.5/20.
Châteauneuf du Pape 2006 (€23) showed a touch of reduction and more closed aromas than the previous; there is depth and substance but the the Argiles Bleues sing more harmoniously at present; 15.5/20 ++ with ? potential.
Châteauneuf du Pape Boisrenard 2006 (€40) was already more open aromatically than the previous with notes of raspberry and tar and the palate was somewhat tight at present but showed great depth, concentration and structure; great future, I guess; potentially 17/20+.
Le Mas des Anges, Montauban
This is a new one for me both as a region (situated between Cahors and Toulouse) and as an estate. It is produced by two flamboyant Belgians with quality ambitions and the gift of the gab for marketing. Varietal composition is Merlot 67%, CabFranc 21%, Tannat 12%.
VdP des Coteaux et Terrasses de Montauban 2008 (€10) had a tangy vigour with leather and tar which belied the high proportion of Merlot which was only perceptible by a supple and round undertow with no jamminess; a promising venture; 15.5/20+ QPR.
Château Jolys, Jurançon
I am a fan of Jurançon but think that Charles Hours and Lapeyre do better; these nevertheless are QPRwines. I was informed that the estate had increased the proportion of Petit Manseng in their wines to the detriment of Gros Manseng in order to increase suppleness and reduce minerality. Fortunately for my palate the additional acidity and minerality of the 2007 vintage more than compensated for this change on the first two.
Sec 2007(€8) was mineral and bright with good underlying flesh; 15/20+.
Vieilles Vignes moelleux 2007(€10) had a mineral brightness which was lacking in the 2006 and was invigorating leaving little subjective impression of sweetness; 15.5/20.
On the other hand Cuvée Jean moelleux 2006(€13)(100% Petit Manseng) though richer and sweeter than the previous with pineapple notes seemed comparatively flabby and less complex and bright than the 2004 shown last year; 15/20.
Champagne Philipponnat
The wines were served too cold for me to be able to make a confident judgement about their subtlety and complexity; it was like gazing through the mist so I haven’t rated them. What I was able to perceive, however, looks promising. The comparison of the first two wines was particularly interesting because the only difference between the two cuvées was 8% dosage on the first and no dosage on the second and it was a real treat to get a look at Clos des Goisses which wasn’t on the tasting list.
Royale Réserve Brut (€30), 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier, was tangy with a forceful bubble and a certain aggressiveness in its backbone.
Non-dosé Brut (€30), same varietal composition, was surprisingly purer, more biscuity and subtle with a finer bubble and less obtrusive backbone. Is dosage really the only difference between this and Royale Réserve? I may buy some of this for Christmas but need to try it again before deciding whether it is not too structured as a starter.
Rosé brut (€36), 100% Pinot Noir, was fuller, more vinous and creamy with tang and structure. A nice pink, I think.
Clos des Goisses brut 1999 (€111), made from 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay in a steeply sloping single vineyard overlooking the Marne, was deep and fleshy (gras) showing vinosity and surprising structure. What a shame about the excessive cold! A food wine and probably great.