WTN: Prestige Italians Part 1 (excl. Tuscany and Piedmont)

The tasting at Licata Vini is always a high spot in the wine tasting calendar because they distribute the wines of many Gambero Rosso 3 bicchieri producers, the event is always admirably organised, they seem nice people and there is always a good dialogue with the producers present; the only fly in the ointment is full prices. Last year I complained about a certain sameness in the reds which mostly seemed to respond to a full sweet and quite heavily oaked formula. I was less conscious of this on this occasion; vintage shift may have had something to do with it but with hindsight I think that part of the problem last year was excessive heat in the tasting hall; this year I did not sweat in my pullover and the wines seemed better differentiated even though there was still no shortage of wine with fragrant boiled sweet (“bonbon”) aromas and ugly dry caramel towards the finish.

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige
The whole of this range is striking for its crisp acidity and marked minerality.
Vogelmaier Moscato Giallo DOC 2008 (€15) was most attractive; quite full with the typically grapey and spicy aromatics enhanced by lively minerals; 16/20.
Pinot Bianco DOC 2008 (€10); I am not a fan of this grape generally finding it a bit bland but the lively tangy acidity make a good case for it; 15/20.
Pinot grigio IGT 2008 (€12) showed the flesh and aromatics of the grape allied to nicely tangy minerals and good grip; 15.5/20.
Chardonnay/Pinot grigio IGT 2008 (€15) added extra amplitude and generosity to the mineral and grippy basis; 15.5/20++.
Haberle Pinot bianco DOC 2008 (€14) almost convinces me about the grape with its generous fleshiness, structure allied to the usual minerality; 15.5/20++.

Krafuss Pinot Nero DOC 2008 (€30) showed nice suave and pure fruit with marked cherry allied to lively acidity; 16/20.
COR Römigberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (€43) showed good fragrance, depth and structure with dark fruit, black currant and cedar notes; 16.5/20.

Leonildo Pieropan, Soave
An always good range presented by one Leonildo’s sons. Smoother wines here than from Lageder. The whites are dry and are made from Garganega (all three) plus Trebbiano di Soave (the first two).
Soave classico 2008 (€10) showed nice fresh fruit with meaty aromas; quite simple; 14.5/20.
Soave Calvarino 2006 (€16) from volcanic soil was more complex than the basic with fragrance, minerality and a salty finish; 16/20.
Soave La Rocca 2006 (€23) from clay soil was richer, fruitier and more ingratiating; some people complain of wood on this but it did not trouble me; I remarked to Pieropan that Calvarino was Chablis compared to La Rocca’s Côte d’Or and he told me that up to the 30s the Calvarino area used to be known as Petit Chablis; 16/20.

Ruberpan IGT 2004 (R) (€20), made from Corvina Veronese, Rondinella corvinone and croatina Veronese, was an elegant medium weight red with nice tangy red fruit and lively acidity; 16/20.

Feudi San Gregorio, Campania
I have always enjoyed the brightly fresh whites here but the reds have sometimes seemed heavy and oaky. The presenter told me that the estate was moving away from new barriques and using far using far more large barrels then reducing the wood contact. I still found notes of dry caramel on the reds, which are made from Aglianico.
Albente IGT 2008 (B) (€9), made from Falanghina, Coda di Volpe and Fiano, was fresh and generously fruited but a bit simple; 14.5/20.
Fiano di Avellino 2008 (€14) was smoother, more aromatic and fuller than the previous with attractive minerality; 15.5/20++.
Greco di Tufo 2008 (€14) had a more ample, ingratiating and spicy character with good minerality; 16/20.
Greco di Tufo Cutizzi 2008 (€17) was richer, smoother and silkier preserving minerality but with just a touch of bonbon aromas detracting from the whole; 16/20.

Rubrato 2007 (R) (€12) showed nice dark fruit and tar but strongly laced with dry caramel; 13/20.
Taurasi 2005 (no price given) showed much greater finesse in its fruit as well as power and structure but some dry caramel still lingered on the finish; 15/20.
Serpico 2005 (€50); I liked this better than last year; the whole seemed better integrated, more refined and structured with less dry caramel than noted then; passage of time, fresher bottle or more congenial temperature? 15.5/20.
I have had better experience with more mature reds from my cellar which leads me to think that the dry caramel notes may recede with time justifying better ratings then.

Palazzone, Orvieto, Umbria
Orvieto Classico Superiore Terre Vinearte 2008 (€10) was much smoother, slightly sweeter and more sophisticated but less fragrant and less wildly burgeoning with fruit (and more expensive) than the basic offering of Le Velette which I drank with relish in Umbria;13.5/20.
Viognier l’Utima Spiaggia 2008 (€15) was pleasantly peachy but left me rather indifferent; 13.5/20.
Orvieto Classico Campo de Guardino 2005 (€14) was much more concentrated and complex with good acidity and minerals; 15.5/20.

Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco, Umbria.
I was interested to compare the range of this famous grower with that of Adanti whom I visited. In general I find the wines here more powerful but less elegant. Very good quality with oaking skilfully handled; no dry caramel.
Montefalco Rosso 2006 (€18) (70% Sangiovese) showed plum, leather and a nicely tangy with tannins better balanced than Adanti at present; 15.5/20++.
Montefalco Rosso Risereva 2006 (€40) was similar with more fragrance, fruit and roundness; 16/20.
Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano 2004 (€40) was powerful, tarry, tannic and long with dark fruit and a fine after-taste; classy potentially 17/20.
Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni 2004 (€70) was several notches up in density and tannic structure; needs ten years at least, then 17/20++ probably.

Fattoria Le Terrazze, Numana, Marche
Rosso Conero 2006 (€12) was round fruit, leather and good structure; 15/20+.
Rosso Conero Sassi Neri Riserva 2005(€32) was much better than the drying 2003 opened at home recently; more fruit, concentration and elegance and without obtrusively dry tannins; 16/20.

Li Veli, Cellino San Marco, Puglia http://www.liveli.it/eng-masseria.htm
This is an unfamiliar estate. The attractive and competent young lady presenting its wines was also covering for Le Terrazze so I naturally tasted them.
Orion IGT 2008 (€8), 100% Primitivo, was round, juicy, tangy and spicy; yum; 15.5/20++ QPR!
Salice Salento Pezzo Morgana 2005 (€15) showed attractively spicy and soft red fruit with an elegance which was cancelled out by touches of dry caramel lurking on the finish; will this recede with time? 15/20.

Cantina del Notaio, Basilicata.
This is a biodynamic estate. The wines were ably presented by Mr. Licata, the owner of Licata Vini.
IGT Il Preliminare 2008 (W) (€12), from Aglianico, Moscato, Chard and Malvasia, was attractively aromatic and grapey; 15/20.
IGT La Raccolta 2008(W) (€22), from Aglianico, Sauvignon, Fiano and Chard, was spicy, more complex and exotic in fruit (some pineapple) with good fresh acidity; 15.5/20++.
IGT Aglianico del Vulture Rosato Il Rogito 2006 (€14) was an unusual rosé with strong spicy notes, dark fruit and tannic structure; blind, would have taken it for red and a good one; 15.5:20++.
IGT L’Atto 2007 (€13), from Aglianico, was spicy and structured with a liquorice note; 15/20.
Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio 2006 (€18) is the real thing; full bodied, fragrant, meaty with dark fruit, tar and firm tannins needing more time; rustic class 16.5/20.
Aglianico del Vulture La Firma 2006 (€33) sees a lot of new wood but it only shows itself in a well integrated patina; the fruit was silky, there was still tar and a firm tannic structure but the impression is more refined and approachable than the previous; 16.5/20++.

Terre Nere, Randazzo, Sicily
I enthused about this estate last year when the elegance of these Sicilian wines came as a pleasant shock to me. The vines are grown on the volcanic soil of Mount Etna at an altitude which brings relative freshness. This year the excellent QPR entry level wines were not on show.
Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche 2007 (€21), from Carricante, was smooth, fruity and round but I remember more minerality from last year; 15/20.
Etna Rosso Calderata Sottana 2007 (€30), from Nerello Mascarese 98% and Nerello Cappuccio like the next, showed surprising finesse in its round fruit for its latitude and generous body; 16/20.
Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2007 (€30) was focussed and mineral with Burgundy like cherry fruit but with touches of wood showing through; 16.5/20 when wood integrates.

Elisabetta Foradori, Mezzolombardo, Trentino
I was pointed in the direction of this unfamiliar estate by a Liègeois wine pal and I am glad of the tip. The wines were presented by the charming and competent owner.
Myrto IGT 2007 (€16), from Sauvignon blanc 60% and Incrocio Manzoni 40%) was fresh, aromatic, soft and fruity; 15/20.
Teroldego Rotaliano 2006 (R) (€15), from the Teroldego grape, was spicy and mineral with lively red fruit; 15.5/20++.
Granato 2006 (R) (€40), also from Teroldego, showed similar qualities together with greater density, structure and complexity; 16.5/20++;

San Leonardo, Avio, Trentino
The well known wines of this estate were being exhibited at the same table so I went on to taste them. They are made from Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Cabernet franc 30% and Merlot 10%. IMO they punch to the same weight as good Médoc 2ème Grands Crus Classés.
San Leonardo 2003 (€43) immediately showed refreshing Bordeaux type aromas with a nobly green edge to black currant influenced fruit; the problems of 2003 heat seem to have perfectly overcome on the rich, deep velvety palate showing a lovely freshness without a trace of candied over-ripeness; 17/20+.
San Leonardo 2001 (€44) was less opulent with firmer tannic structure but purer, more elegant, better balanced and, I think, with more ageing potential; 17.5/20.

Tuscany and Piedmont follow in Part 2.

Elisabetta Foradori, Mezzolombardo, Trentino
I was pointed in the direction of this unfamiliar estate by a Liègeois wine pal and I am glad of the tip. The wines were presented by the charming and competent owner.
Myrto IGT 2007 (€16), from Sauvignon blanc 60% and Incrocio Manzoni 40%) was fresh, aromatic, soft and fruity; 15/20.
Teroldego Rotaliano 2006 (R) (€15), from the Teroldego grape, was spicy and mineral with lively red fruit; 15.5/20++.
Granato 2006 (R) (€40), also from Teroldego, showed similar qualities together with greater density, structure and complexity; 16.5/20++

Glad you enjoyed the wines. As you no doubt discovered at the tasting, Foradori is one of the top names for Trentino Teroldego. But I've never had their white wine. Sounds interesting. Have you ever had a 100% Incrocio Manzoni? What is the grape like? Given my proclivities for mono-cepage wines and indigenous varieties, I might like to try that without all the sauvignon blanc mixed in!

What a wonderful line up of wines, Tim. Some lovely and concise descriptors.

Re the Greco Cutizzi---you used the descriptor "bonbon". Could that possibly be a touch of oak? Does San Gregorio use oak in that Greco?

Re the Pieropan Soaves (and Soave in general): agreed Pieropan makes some good and intriguing Soaves, and that the volcanic and granitic soils through the hills of Soave---where the original Soave came from before they stupidly expanded the DOC down to the plains---are distinctive. And even though I'm not an advocate of wood---well, new barrels anyway---I can honestly say I've had some Soave that has handled wood well, much to my surprise.

Wow, that's some part I, can't believe there's a part II!

Glad you liked the Foradori wines. Their regular Teroldego has never impressed me that much, though reasonably good, but the Granato has long been a favorite from trips to Venice.

Tasted the 08 Pieropan Classico in Italy a few weeks ago and found it: Muted aromas of citrus and white flowers. No oak. Nice and dry, quite acidic. Simple, but functional.

I found the Caprais a bit too "industrial" and anonymous (somewhat international in ripeness and acidity) at a tasting I organized a few weeks ago, but perhaps they just need time.

Re the Greco Cutizzi---you used the descriptor "bonbon". Could that possibly be a touch of oak? Does San Gregorio use oak in that Greco?

By "bonbon" I mean a rather synthetic seeming fragrance which reminds me of the English boiled sweets which I consumed during my childhood. "Bonbon anglais" is a common descriptor in French which means the same thing, the "anglais" part being especially pejorative Cutizzi does see some new oak and I wonder whether that does not contribute in some way to bringing out this feature.

Re the Greco Cutizzi---you used the descriptor "bonbon". Could that possibly be a touch of oak? Does San Gregorio use oak in that Greco?

By "bonbon" I mean a rather synthetic seeming fragrance which reminds me of the English boiled sweets which I consumed during my childhood. "Bonbon anglais" is a common descriptor in French which means the same thing, the "anglais" part being especially pejorative Cutizzi does see some new oak and I wonder whether that does not contribute in some way to bringing out this feature.

Ah, okay, got it. Thanks for the clarification...my problem was in the cultural significance of your "bon bon". I don't think of bon bon as a boiled sweet (I'd say hard candy, I think, or just 'candied'). Glad I asked for clarification. as it is a totally different sensory idea than what I mistakenly thought you were conveying. And, yes, I can certainly see where some Grecos might exhibit that kind of characteristic.

Again, thanks, and super tasting.

The tasting at Licata Vini is always a high spot in the wine tasting calendar because they distribute the wines of many Gambero Rosso 3 bicchieri producers, the event is always admirably organised, they seem nice people and there is always a good dialogue with the producers present; the only fly in the ointment is full prices. Last year I complained about a certain sameness in the reds which mostly seemed to respond to a full sweet and quite heavily oaked formula. I was less conscious of this on this occasion; vintage shift may have had something to do with it but with hindsight I think that part of the problem last year was excessive heat in the tasting hall; this year I did not sweat in my pullover and the wines seemed better differentiated even though there was still no shortage of wine with fragrant boiled sweet (“bonbon”) aromas and ugly dry caramel towards the finish.

Tim,

the 'many 3 Bicchieri producers' and 'bonbon aromas' are unfortunately often found together. For some reason the Gambero Rosso/Slow Food partnership has ended up promoting this kind of wine.

Happily this is not the general trend in Italy, if anything I would say people are moving away from this style.

the 'many 3 Bicchieri producers' and 'bonbon aromas' are unfortunately often found together. For some reason the Gambero Rosso/Slow Food partnership has ended up promoting this kind of wine.

Happily this is not the general trend in Italy, if anything I would say people are moving away from this style.

I wonder if Gambero Rosso is not also changing, at least with regard to oak treatment. When researching Romagna, I came across this critical note on a change of direction in the Castelluccio winery of a sort which cannot imagine having read 5 years ago -

Stripped of their agile complexity, multi-layered aromas and slow almost austere development on the palate, today's wines are a response to more international tastes, offering prominent toastiness where the fruit struggles to emerge and achieve sufficient balance.

Tim,

for some years now the GR has been awarding prizes to the classic traditionally made wines as well as the oaky non-native fruitbombs, perhaps because it became too embarrassing not to, but in my experience a Tre Bicchieri tasting is an awkward combination of the two styles. Aside from the Gambero Rosso Guide, though, I would say the clear tendency in Italy is to prize indigenous varieties and a more transparent winemaking style, and this has been true for some years.

Many wineries sort of wear both hats, having a range of good honest wines and then a top 'points' cuvee.

Castellucio is an interesting case; when it was owned by the founding family, it used to be one of the best wineries in Romagna, then it was sold to Vittorio Fiore, a Tuscan enologist. Don't know what's going on now (I imported the wine, back in the old days.) The web says that their oak regimen for their big Sangiovese is 40% new barrels of 350L, not completely Bordeaux but not traditional either.