Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2002: I have slowly worked my way through more than half a case of this wine now, and it has developed remarkably slowly during that time. An attractive nose today, with very dense, perhaps slightly tense fruit, with elements of leaf and nettle tempered by a harmonious, honey-cream edge. It seems a little lactic, and there are fleeting aromas reminiscent of yoghurt and cereal. Fresh on the palate, pure and cottony in texture, weighty and a touch smoky, with lots of substance and grip. Fine, gritty, with tinges of oatmeal and pineapple, and good length, this is a very good wine indeed. 17/20
The second wine is from the grand cru Vaudésir, so it perhaps goes without saying this is another right bank wine. Vaudésir sits behind Grenouilles towards the back of the grands crus, and is pictured here, the vines in the very foreground being Vaudésir, up over the slopes on the right would be Grenouilles, to my right out of shot would be Les Preuses:
Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2000: Perhaps rather early for my palate to be opening Grand Cru Chablis, but I have a few of these so it is time to see what they are up to I think. A pale straw in the glass, fresh and bright. The nose is full of promise, the fruit clean and vaguely crystalline. There is an autumnal quality to it, rich with notes of soft, golden dessert apples and dried fruits, with nuances of almonds and vanilla. Later, little notes of orange peel and even cardamom come to the fore. The palate is rounded and fresh, full-bodied but nicely defined, firm with a bitter, mildly tannic grip beneath it all. Still very early on in its drinking window. Very good. 17+/20