This was the first of the big Autumn tasting which I have attended this year. Le Palais du Vin is mainly an importer of substantial and reputable producers/négotiants like both André and J&F Lurton, Louis Jadot, Bouchard P&F, Perrin and Frescobaldi and prices tend to be full. Unfortunately Jadot and Bouchard were showing much more limited ranges than last year so I lingered less choosing mainly different producers from last year.
Château de Pennautier, Cabardès
Cabardès is located at the watershed between the Atlantic and Mediterranean basins and the wines reflect this in their varietal composition and taste. I asked M. Lorgeril to propose a wine to perform the function of mouth-wash to remove the sweet after-tastes of breakfast. He chose L’Orangerie – Sauvignon VdP de l’Oc 2008 (€5), which performed the function admirably and showed refreshing apple and gooseberry notes and a nice crispness; 15/20.
Château de Pennautier Cabardès rouge 2007 (€7) is reliably fruity and structured QPR wine with a fresh Bordelais edge to its fruit and a warm Mediterranean undertow but I found this 2007 slightly more raw and dry in its tannins than usual; 14.5/20++.
Château de Pennautier “Terroirs d’Altitude” Cabardès 2005 (€10) sees some new wood and was deeper, richer and more complex than the previous with touches of leather and unobtrusive vanilla; 15.5/20.
L’Ésprit de Pennautier Cabardès 2001 (€24) was matured in 100% new oak but it had integrated it very well into the deep substance with red fruit, rose and garrigue aromas and good length; 16/20.
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi
The leitmotif in all these wines were fragrant boiled sweet (“bonbon”) type aromas on the nose and in the mouth which I felt owed more to selected cultured yeasts than to the grapes and terroir; the presenter seemed to confirm this. Technically they were well made with sweet fruit and decent structure and I would drink them at a restaurant which had nothing more interesting but, blind, I would have had a hard job identifying them as coming from Sangiovese. The following conform to this broad description with additional weight and structure appropriate to their price points –
Remole IGT Toscana Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvigon 2007 (€9); 14/20.
Chianti Castiglione Sangiovese/Merlot 2007 (€11); 14.5/20.
Chianti Rufina “Nipozzano” Riserva 2006 (€18); somewhat less bonbon and more structure here; 15.5/20.
Brunello di Montalcino 2004 – Castelgiocondo (€43); I have liked some previous vintages of this but this one fell into a similar pattern to the others; 15.5/20.
Mormeto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (€55) added some unpleasant notes of dry caramel to the same recipe; 13/20.
The exception to this pattern was Chianti Rufina “Montesodi” 2005 (€44) which was absorbing its 100% new wood very successfully and showed discreet aromas right now but great substance, concentration and structure; with time 16/20+.
William Fèvre and Bouchard Père et Fils
The same authoritative lady as last year presented the wines. She said confidently that since the 2000 and 2001 vintages they have been having no trouble with premox on the whites but a contributor on another site disputes this statement with regard to William Fèvre. All the wines below carry the Bouchard P&F label (new design) except the first (William Fèvre).
Whites
Sauvignon de Saint-Bris 2008 (€12) was crisp and fresh with gooseberry notes; more zesty than the Pennautier; 15.5/20.
Saint-Véran 2008 (€15) was round and flowery but lacking the focus and punch of Chablis and the greater complexity and minerality of producers like Rijckaert; 14.5/20.
Montagny 1er cru 2007 (€18) was much more complex and interesting with fine mineral, grilled meat notes and lively acidity; 15.5/20++.
Meursault 2007 (domaine) (€36) was as expected more opulent, ample and creamy and also with nice grilled meat and mineral notes and lively acidity; 16/20.
Reds
Monthélie 2007 (domaine) (€23) was quite pale and light in body but showed attractive notes of sharp cherry with minerals and a certain elegance; 15.5/20.
Chassagne-Montrachet 2007 (€32) was meatier and more structured but was displaying angular and slightly bitter tannins; more time needed; 14.5/20.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru “Les Lavières” 2007 (domaine) (€28) was similar with more discreet nose and greater concentration; 14.5/20++.
Beaune 1er cru “Teurons” 2007 (€36) was a cut above the two previous with greater roundness, sweeter cherry aroma, length and better covered tannins; potentially 16/20.
Delas Frères, Tournon, Northern Rhône
A good standard and some decent QPR here from this respected producer/négotiant, if little really exciting. Delas is controlled by the Champagnes Roederer group which is a quality reference. The first two wines are Grenache dominated and the rest nearly or absolutely 100% Syrah.
Côtes du Ventoux 2006 (€6) showed tarry dark fruit and good degree of richness; 15.5/20 QPR.
Coteaux du Tricastin 2008 (€6,50) showed pretty fresh fruit aromas and a refreshing dark fruited body with dashes of pepper; 15.5/20 QPR.
Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit 2007 (€8) had a nice fragrantly cherry laced Syrah nose with quite good depth and structure; 16/20 QPR!
Crozes-Hermitage “Les Launes” 2006 (€14) showed steely cherry aromas and quite dark fruit and body; 15/20+.
Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine du Grand Chemin” 2006 (€18) showed a silkier mouth-feel, sweeter cherry aromas and good complexity; 16/20.
Crozes-Hermitage “Le Clos” 1999 (€29) disappointed with tired fruit and a pasty mid-palate; subliminal TCA? 13/20.
Crozes-Hermitage “le Clos” 2004 (€32) was refined in aroma and structured, long and elegant on the palate again with cherry notes; 16/20+.
Saint-Joseph “Les Challeys” 2006 was a shade rustic after the Crozes but showed good Nothern Rhône typicity with steely cherry, minerals and good body; 15/20+.
Saint-Joseph “François de Tournon” 2001 (€21) showed a return to refinement with slightly candied aromas and a well integrated and deep palate; 16/20.
Cornas “Chante Perdrix” 2005 (€37) was several notches up in power showing liquorice notes in its dark fruit aromas with the addition of tar and leather on the deep and structured palate; maybe some excitement here in a few years; potentially 17/20.
Léon Beyer, Eguisheim, Alsace
This house was represented by Marc Beyer, a very big man like quite a few Alsatian growers. It showed a wide range. Beyer claims that his range is the most reliably dry in Alsace (with the exception of his VTs and SGNs). We discussed the proposal before the INAO promoted by Marcel Deiss whereby varietal mention in GC and perhaps other appellations should be abolished; Beyer did not mince words about the proposal and its proposer and said that it has been buried.
Alsace “Cuvée Léon Beyer” 2005 (€8) was a pretty and fresh entry level wine with good acidity; 14.5/20.
Riesling 2008 (€13) was crisp and flowery with good acidity and a lively touch of bitterness on the finish; 15.5/20.
Riesling “Les Écaillers” 2004 (€25) showed similarly crispness and added depth and complexity with mineral notes and a hydrocarbon touch; 16/20.
Pinot Gris 2007 (€15) was one of the driest and more crisp in my memory; 15/20+.
Pinot Gris “Comtes d’Eguisheim” 2005 (€34) was disfigured by slightly curdled cabbage and smoky notes (oxidation?) was there was a burnished richness which could be attractive on a fresh bottle; NR.
Gewurztraminer 2007 (€15) was unusually dry and crisp for the grape variety but showed the spice and lychee qualities; I could use this more easily than the typically sweeter versions though Trimbach’s a tad sweeter classic is also excellent; 15.5/20++.
Gewurztraminer “Comtes d’Eguisheim” 2000 (€34) was another one showing cabbage-like oxidative notes disfiguring evident richness and complexity (Marc Beyer tasted and agreed about the oxidation muttering about bottles open too long; I wonder?); NR.
Gewurztraminer “Blason d’Alsace” Vendanges Tardives 2000 (€36) redeemed the faults of the previous with a bright fresh acidity which balanced perfectly the refined sweetness and complex Gewurz aromatics; 16.5/20.
Gewurztraminer “Sélection des Grains Nobles” 1998 added burnished depth whilst still retaining good acidity for balance; 17/20.