Malbec Hounds....this one is for you!!

"This one is for you, wherever you are"..Barry Manilow song.

WTN: `06 Achaval-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza.

Cellared 2 yrs, $26 Cdn, entry level wine from a true traditional house. 13.5% alc, decanted for an hour, some sediment noted, good natural cork.

Color. Black/inky/opaque/light purple on rim.
Nose. Floral/violets/blackberries/raspberry/savoury/meaty/lots going on.
Palate. Initial entry thoughts are dry/soft tannins/smooth/expressive/blueberry."I was fortunate to taste the recently released `08, this one has more structure" fellow taster thought. I found some coffee, leather, thought full-bodied, excellent acidity, lengthy. This wine has some soul folks, terrific. Cocoa on day 2, alas my only bottle.

Thanks, Bob. Sounds like a winner.

What do you all think about Luigi Bosca Malbecs? I have a 2004 basic bottling that I probably need to drink. I really liked their higher end label.

Hi, Bob, not sure I'd call AF true traditional. They were founded just 10 years ago and epitomize (the best of) the modern style of malbec.

Examples of true traditional wineries would be Weinert and Montchenot.

One might call Catena Zapata "false" traditional in that they have tradition as a firm, but their wines are very modern.

Brian, IMHO, with most Argentine modern wineries (including La Linda), less is more. The reservas just get more oak, riper grapes, higher alcohol, less natural acidity, higher prices, etc., etc. A positive exception is AF, which is good throughout the range (for those who appreciate modern). A negative exception is Catena Zapata and Suzana Balbo, whose entry level Alamos and Crios bottlings are, for the most part, to be avoided.

Thanks Oswaldo, my use of 'traditional' was not well chosen. I was trying to relate to the "pure malbec" style, not the "international" one (wipes brow).

I cant but disagree with most of what Oswaldo posts above. More is not always less.... mostly because most of the higher wines from Argentina need to be properly cellared and be given the required time to show what they have to offer.

While its true that not all wines improve with cellaring... its IMO a gross exaggeration to write off all (or most) of the higher-end wines from Argentina simply because one does not like bigger wines. Lets give the folks out there that like a bolder and more structured approach to wine the chance to consider what Mendoza and the rest of Argentina has to offer.

For those that want less power, I suggest looking away from Salta and closer to Patagonia, and while in Mendoza leave the traditional premiere zones and look at producers that are making wine with fruit from the higher altitude regions (cooler climates).

Hi, Bob, not sure I'd call AF true traditional. They were founded just 10 years ago and epitomize (the best of) the modern style of malbec.

Examples of true traditional wineries would be Weinert and Montchenot.

One might call Catena Zapata "false" traditional in that they have tradition as a firm, but their wines are very modern.

Brian, IMHO, with most Argentine modern wineries (including La Linda), less is more. The reservas just get more oak, riper grapes, higher alcohol, less natural acidity, higher prices, etc., etc. A positive exception is AF, which is good throughout the range (for those who appreciate modern). A negative exception is Catena Zapata and Suzana Balbo, whose entry level Alamos and Crios bottlings are, for the most part, to be avoided.

If you want traditional producers... you should include - just to name a few:

- Bianchi
- Trapiche
- Etchart

Also... saying that some names have little or a short tradition can be misleading... since the family behind many "new" Argentine wine firms have been making wine (and selling it throughout Argentina) for generations...... some examples are:

- Catena
- Benegas
- Yacochuya
- Rutini

Furthermore.... Montchenot is not a producer. Its a brand, that belongs to Bodegas Lopez. Montchenot is however a long time classic of a Bordeaux type blend in the Argentine market.

Might as well use this heading for my `03 Balbo which was found the other night at the back of the cellar. Quite a highly rated domaine and some general good notes here on this forum. Not sure this was meant for putting away so lets see!

WTN: `03 Susana Balbo Malbec, Mendoza.

Color is almost opaque, thick purple rim with no sign of age.
On the nose, spice, black pepper, black fruits, hint of leather one can find in horse barn. "Quite Bordeaux-ish" from across the table. I can see that.
Nice mouthfeel on entry but has an aged quality about it with secondary flavors. Brambleberry, hint of licorice, ripe-ish fruit without being too sweet. Soft tannins, quite fruit forward but might be a struggle to finish this bottle? I usually prefer my Malbec in a fresher style and not sure about the track record of an elderly entry-level malbec. Guess a tad confused eh.

Lots of blueberry on day 2 whilst watching Iditarod finale.

I can sort of understand calling Achaval-Ferrer "traditional," in the sense that their goal is Bordeaux-style wines. But they are about as far as you can get from "traditional" Mendoza wine-making. They don't use nets on their vines (retain too much moisture), they often pick earlier (freshness and acidity favored over physiological ripeness, which is heresy in Mendoza), and ferment at higher temperatures (keeps alcohol levels reasonable). And Santiago Achával, the modest vineyard owner with the Harvard MBA, is not exactly a traditional Mendoza type, either.

I can sort of understand calling Achaval-Ferrer "traditional," in the sense that their goal is Bordeaux-style wines. But they are about as far as you can get from "traditional" Mendoza wine-making. They don't use nets on their vines (retain too much moisture), they often pick earlier (freshness and acidity favored over physiological ripeness, which is heresy in Mendoza), and ferment at higher temperatures (keeps alcohol levels reasonable). And Santiago Achával, the modest vineyard owner with the Harvard MBA, is not exactly a traditional Mendoza type, either.

Excellent points. I wonder why their example hasn't spread.

Thanks to all for pointing out my "traditional" remark. I hand sell /rec. A-F when downtown helping out and try to imply that their style of wine is not the "modern fruit bomb" one should be wary of. That does not imply traditional of course, just my way of explanation. Maybe not the choicest of words I guess.

Mi cucharra en esta olla:

Although you can count me in the league of the ones who like "traditional" wines i.e. fresh, light and bright in colour, no residual sugar, low alcohol, consistent acidity and tannins with character (protoype been Chateau Musar) I have to recognise that Achával-Ferrer and Catena Zapata make some wines that are not fruits bombs nor old style. Quimera and Angelica Malbec Alta are two of the best wines of Latin America, to my palate. These wine resemble Bordeaux style but are very, very, modern in the sense of equilibrium and no excess or faults, including Volatile Acidity and Brett, so common in Lopez and Weinert (which I like very much).
I agree too with Alejandro that people, specially outside Argentina, tend do drink wines that have not yet settle down. Angelica gets great at the age of ten and Quimera, dependig upon every year, between 5 to 8. Usual well made argentinian cabernet and malbec gets , IME, better at 4 or 5 years.This phenomenon is similar , in my experience, with well made uruguaian wine like Cuna de Piedra, Adagio, Casa Luntro (no longer exists) that become excepcional at age 8 to 10. Chilean wine follows the same pattern: Almaviva 10 to 15 years, pre-Parker Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas, 10 to 20 years, and even lesser wines like Castillo de Molina should be drank after the fifth year, and you wil not find them so harsh and oaky.

Just my personnal taste, of course.

I was going to create a new topic but will instead use this existing heading.

While taking an afternoon off to go bicycling (60s and 70s here this week), I stopped at the small wine shop in downtown Alameda. The owner recommended a Malbec that I found quite delicious:

2008 Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Mendoza

I don't know if Altocedro is considered "modern" in style or not, but this vintage at least was not goopy, "sweet," or oaky at all. (The owner did opine that the 2007 vintage was overoaked)

Alcohol is restrained (13.9%). Reviews mention a powerful nose of violets, which is definitely there. Winebuyer.com also mentioned "nervy acidity" which was my favorite element of this wine...it is very slurpable and palate cleansing. what really stood out ot me, though, was an almost saline savoryness...and a lot of meaty elements that I thought for a moment might even be brett but is probably just that savory goodness. Fantastic QPR here: $15 for a wine that is slurpable by itself but would go very well with food.

This small shop, next to the movie palace off Park Avenue, is a great little shop with an animated and appealing owner who seems to have a first class palate! Made a very nice stop on my bicycle ride. She also turned me onto a fantastic Lacrima de Mora from Italy that was a mouthful of mulberries (it had to be mulberries) and earth and a bitter note that was appealing. Yum!

I worry about the artifical acidity of so many of these, what it does to the sense of integration today, and what it does for the prospect of graceful ageing tomorrow. In a recent post, I quoted from a Parker interview in which he says something about new world chardonnay that I have found to be generally true of Andean reds as well, and that I found quite surprising, coming from an esthetic that has basically put these wines on the map:

The preponderant number of new world Chardonnays must be consumed within 2-3 years after the vintage. As enjoyable as they are, they often have all their components playing against one another rather than in complete harmony. Perhaps because most new world Chardonnays must be acidified, when one tastes them, the overall perception is one of separate but equal building blocks of acid, structure, fruit, and wood.

If both Greeks and Trojans agree on something, could it be true?

I'm not sure the acidity is that "artificial," though Oswaldo. The grapes were def. not picked over ripe and the fruit bomby character is not here. Hmmmm, and I don't recall other Malbecs having obvious acidity added artificially????...

I've found this problem of acidity sticking out more in some Aussie Shiraz.

I take it that was their regular Malbec.

I have heard good things about their considerably more expensive Mirador, but would like to know if it is worth the significant dollars before buying!

Yep... $15 retail. I think it is a great deal!

There is a meaty, funky character to this wine, so if you are looking for the softer, fruit-forward type of Malbec...not sure this is it! But I loved it!

Altocedro...a new name for me. Website is not the greatest one out there. Thanks for note.

After that special `06 from Achaval-Ferrer that I posted on earlier, I found an `05 so here goes.....>

WTN: `05 Achaval-Ferrer Malbec, Mendoza.

Good natural cork, nicely stained. $26 Cdn, 13.5% alc, opened one hour/not decanted. Slight trace of sediment on day 2. I served just very slightly chilled but no real benefit I think?

Color. Deep purple rim, no age, black center.

Nose. Blueberry, violets, spice, black fruits, harmonious perfume, raspberry after an hour. "No oak domination here" from across the table.

Palate. Initial thoughts...off-dry, soft tannins, lengthy finish, v gd acidity. Almost velvety, juicy, medium-bodied. Definately a winner here!! It is not that ripe but very nice. "Rich fruit forward" from other taster. Blackberry on day 2, not much change, great as it was yesterday!
My commitment to this house is confirmed.

Good discussion from a few months ago! Just about to open a `06 A Lisa Malbec from Patagonia so stay tuned. From Bodega Noemia with 10% merlot blended in.

Change of pace from the usual suspects, how about this delicious Guentota....>

WTN: `07 Belasco de Baquedano AR Guentota Malbec, Mendoza.

Juan Palomar was in town last week and I managed to go downtown and taste some of his portfolio from BdeB.

Bright color, 13% alc, $30 Cdn. 6 months in new oak, more of a peppery nose than the Old Vine tasted previously. Black fruits, plum, others found dark berries, hint of chocolate. Good depth here, serious malbec, old world style. Pepper finish with some cold cuts, yum.

Other wines tasted included the Llama Old Vine Malbec, La Playa, and a serious Swinto Old Vine Malbec. However no note as I was clearing excess glasses etc