2007 Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor
$32 from Hart Davis Hart, decent value for a Hirtzberger Smaragd and this is drinking beautifully. Lots of power and richness here and a fantastic flavour profile of white fruits, beans, pepper, flowers and minerals, with a little creaminess developing on the back end with some air. Very well balanced with bright acidity, finishing long. Mmm.
2007 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pont Vineyard
Excellent stuff once again; this is by far my favourite Viognier from California though it tastes and feels much closer to a classic Condrieu in its elegant, restrained fruit and bright minerality. Beautiful perfumed floral aromatics, ripe fruit without ever feeling overripe or heavy and a stony mineral base and bright acidity underneath.
2001 FX Pichler Riesling Reserve "M"
Bright gold in colour with intense honeyed and smoky aromatics over white fruits, minerals and flowers, smelling much sweeter than it actually tastes (the aromatics bring to mind a big Rheingau Auslese, this doesn't smell too different from a 98 Leitz Schlossberg I opened recently!) In the mouth it's an absolute powerhouse, layers of peaches, limes, apricots and pears dusted with spices and a base of gravelly minerals underneath; so rich and concentrated it feels chewy but despite its size it retains fantastic acidity and precision and finishes long and dry. Stunning wine.
2002 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières
Starts out exotic and perfumed with aromatics of incense smoke, earth and sappy red fruits - but this goes downhill within minutes as volatile acidity starts to take over and dominates every aspect of the wine until it's undrinkable. Bah.
2004 J-F Mugnier Nuits St. Georges Clos de Fourches
No greenness to be found here, just bright sappy cherries and strawberries with touches of cinnamon, rose petals and earthy elements adding a savoury touch. Great balance and elegance with a backbone of bright acidity and grainy tannins underneath suggesting this has a long life ahead of it. Delicious.
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