WTN: Very strange German wine

[Jenise]

2003 Staatlicher Hofkeller Wurzburg
Franconia

The label says that this is a blend of Franconia's "best grape varieties", so it could be made of anything. Which stands to reason because it tastes of no grape I know of. Nose of lychee nut, lime peel and Tide detergent. On the palate, fresh lime juice with canned peach syrup, fresh basil and a rather heavily quinine-bitter finish. Big bodied and off-dry, which gives it a slow, overweight gait compared to the typical German white wine. Only 12% alcohol per the label but tastes like 13%. I couldn't drink a second glass.

[David M. Bueker]

Frightening. The best Franken wines are delicious, but beware cheap imitations. Yuck!

Probably contains some Sylvaner. I lived in Wurzburg for a couple years and found the better Franken wines to be good dinner wines but never became as fond of them as of the Rheingau and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer regions.

[Jenise]

JC, I've visited Germany and remember the agreeable Franken wines from those visits. Cheap, simple, easy quaffers--sylvaner makes sense. I thought this bottle would introduce me to the better class of Frankens I'd missed out on. And maybe it did--there actually wasn't anything wrong with it, I just didn't like what it was. Whereas I suspect a dedicated gin-and-tonic drinker would have found it most enjoyable, if a bit flat.

The wine is likely to contain a fair amount of Müller Thurgau. This is a variety that is not usually boasted on the label - for good reason. It can produce agreable quaffers, witha somwhat cheap-fruity aroma. Lychee maybe one of them. Add to this the fact the 2003 produced heavy wines all over Germany. 12% alc plus RS minus acidity...

Very few Franken 2003s I have tasted were satisfying. I prefer 2004 there. Go for variety labelled wines from the region next time.

Peter

2003 Staatlicher Hofkeller Wurzburg
Franconia

Blend of kerner, müller-thurgau and with a slight addition of scheurebe (at least so I heard). Yup the three great grape varieties of Franconia.

Kerner - another vice of German viticulture... thanks Arndt. Coming to the Mosel in Sptember again?

Peter

Peter, I kind of like Kerner. It was one of my favorites during my German sojourn. Why would you call it a vice? Or are varieties like Kerner, Faberrebe, Ortega, Bacchus, Huxelrebe, Elbling and Dornfelder what Weill was really talking about in Die sieben Todessünden?

I've got a friend who is actually growing Kerner and making wine from it out here in Lodi, CA. It's hard to get the right amount of acid out here, but although already commercialized, it is still experimental and developing. Some of his stuff ain't bad at all.

In fact out of pure curiosity to see how German wines are being transposed into a California setting you might wish to visit his website at Mokelumne Glen Vineyards. This is his selection of wines. Scroll down to the German ones. He produces Kerner, Lemberger, Dornfelder, and something called "Dreirebe" which is his secret blend of three German varieties. These are from his German Collection.

FWIW ...

Did this come in the funky squat bottle? You never see these on store shelves any more.

Mark, I imagine you are referring to a Bocksbeutel. I'll leave it up to someone else to expound on the translation and etymology of that word.

[Jenise]

Did this come in the funky squat bottle? You never see these on store shelves any more.

Mark, no, that's all I know of Franken too, but this was in a burg bottle. Oh, and I paid around $12-15--that's all I can offer for data points.

Coming to the Mosel in Sptember again?

Peter

Yes, but only a very few days. Plans are being settled in the next couple of weeks. Probably around 20-23.September. You too??

[David M. Bueker]

Hey, let's not cast scheurebe aside. It's a wonderful grape variety!!!

Hey, let's not cast scheurebe aside. It's a wonderful grape variety!!!

I've rather like the few examples I've had also. But does it thrive only on the terroirs that Riesling does well in? I've heard such a claim made.

I also had a lot of fun tasting the different versions of Kerner in Germany when made in a crisp, dry style.

Tyler

I'm another Scheurebe fan but have only had this variety in German wines. I still remember with great fondness one Rulander (Pinot Gris)/Scheurebe Auslese from Baden (pink color) and also loved some of the Muller Catoir Scheurebe. In my opinion the Scheurebe was probably not enough to salvage the Muller Thurgau/Kerner, etc. blend.

Strauss "Samling 88" Scheurebe is cheap and delicious. As we say around here, "Don't be schoy!"

[David M. Bueker]

Strauss "Samling 88" Scheurebe is cheap and delicious. As we say around here, "Don't be schoy!"

Scheu vey!

It's a Scheu wine (and it can be "showy" too).

I believe this particular "estate" is owned by Schmidt Soehne. No wonder it wasn't drinkable. I can think of few other producers who have done more to tarnish the good name of German wine (although Turning Leaf IS sourcing fruit from the Pfalz).

das ist sehr schlecht
-Bill