It’s veering towards sparkler season—here’s a TN of a couple Americans, Korbel NV California Champagne Chardonnay and Iron Horse 2002 Blanc de blancs Green Valley.
The comparison is the serendipitous result of a brunch with a few unexpected guests and the fare was the usual—eggs pan-cooked in all styles, cornbread, bacon, sausage, fried grits, broccoli (I like broccoli, OK?) and so on.
Korbel--$10 at Trader Joe’s and a supermarket staple—was a bit nervy, acidic while slightly sweet. Korbel quality took a dip in the 90s, but the bead is smaller now and it sips well with whole-hog sausage and honeydew melon. It has absolutely no finish, though. Despite the label’s boast, I tasted no oak. Korbel is good by itself but outstanding in OJ and cranberry mimosas.
According to the label, the Iron Horse ($30 at K&L) rested on lees for 8 years, and I was expecting some serious tang. It wasn’t there, but there is some weight (13% abv). It is very dry—I wonder if there is any dosage at all—and has a fine bead. And even if it’s not very flavorful, what there is lasts and lasts. Apples but no toast.
At the brunch, Korbel won hands down (or up, in most cases!). But I have since found the Iron Horse to be one of the best wines ever for cheese when the cheese is the star. To clarify, I like Bass Lake Bierkaese (like generic Limburger). Beers like Sam Adams or Anchor Steam actually clash with the cheese, and the cheese itself would take away from the finest Champagne. Iron Horse is a perfect match and I’m looking forward to pairing it with other stinky cheeses!