by Daniel Rogov » Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:28 am
Like many, even professionals in the field, I simply do not get to taste that many Georgian wines. Following though are my tasting notes and comments from two tastings, one held in 2006 and the other in 2008.
Best
Rogov
The 2006 Tastinng
This afternoon (Thursday, 27 April 2006), thanks to the courtesy of and in the very pleasant company of Lasha Zhvania, the Ambassador of the Georgian Republic, I was in Jerusalem to attend a tasting of red and white wines from the Teliani Valley Winery.
Founded in 1997 but based on vineyards and an older winery established during the days of Stalin, the winery is located in the Tsinandali region, considered by many the center of Georgian viticulture. The winery currently produces about 2.5 million bottles annually, relying both on indigenous grapes (e.g. Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Kakhuri for whites and Saperavi, Mujuretuli and Alekandrouli for reds) and, to a lesser extent, on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Winemaking in Georgia traces back between 7,000 – 9,000 years. Truth be told, until recently those wines offered little in the way of charm but today, with vineyards and wineries being modernized, with a move to more classical grapes and with better trained winemakers and with major investment from the EU, things are indeed looking up. Following are my notes from today's tastings.
Best
Rogov
Teliani, Tsinandali, 2004: A crisply dry white, based on Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes. Fermented and developed in stainless steel, the wine shows appealing if not somewhat subdued citrus, apple and peach aromas and flavors. A summertime quaffer. Drink now. Score 84.
Teliani, Teli, 2004: Based on Kakhuri Mtsvane grapes, this dark golden wine was fermented and then developed sur lie in French oak barrels. Lots of toasty oak and strong vanilla that tends to hold back the melon, citrus and apple aromas and flavors. Drink up. Score 83.
Teliani, Saperavi, 2004: Lightly oak-aged, made entirely from Saperavi grapes, with almost potent volatile acidity and chunky country-style tannins but those yielding in the glass to reveal spicy cedar, vanilla as well as berry and currant fruits. Simple but pleasant. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 82.
Teliani, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Oak aged, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Not much in the way of tannins or alcohol (only 11.5%) in this medium-bodied red but enough acidity here to make your mouth pucker and with flavors of sour cherries dominating those of plums and currants. A simple entry-level wine. Drink up. Score 78.
Teliani, Mukuzani, 2004: Made entirely of Saperavi grapes, medium- to full-bodied, with hints of spicy oak and soft tannins integrating nicely and appealing berry, currant and plum fruits. A perhaps too generous overlay of Brett here that will not appeal to everyone. Drink now. Score 83.
Teliani, Khvanchkara, 2004: Demonstrating the Georgian love of things sweet, this wine is categorized as half-dry but in fact is quite sweet. A low alcohol (11.2%) blend of Murjuetuli and Aleksandrouli grapes, soft and round and reminiscent of nice strawberry jam. People who like this kind of thing will like this wine. Drink now. Score 76.
Teliani, Kindzmarauli, 2004: Truly half dry, with 11.3% alcohol, and with surprising smoothness and roundness. Not much on the nose but on the palate generous jammy blackberries. Best as a dessert served quite well chilled. Drink now. Sore 78.
And then there were two versions of Georgian grappa, one oaked the other unoaked. At the end of my tasting, being brave of heart I tried only the unoaked version. Far from "gentleman's grappa" this had something distinctly akin to the Italian grappas that I most enjoy- the kind that have distinct aromas and flavors of wild flowers, cumin, and tarragon and that are potent and peppery enough to make you catch your breath after you have swallowed. In short, good stuff!
The 2008 Tasting
Kurgan Tyube, Rachuli Tetra, n.v.: Made from the indigenous Rachuli Tetra grape, a white wine, as clear and light as water in color, with a generous 18% alcohol content and with flavors that call to mind a cocktail of vodka and peach nectar. Served near-frozen acceptable but the moment it warms up calls to mind nothing more than a not-at-all well maintained cesspool. Unscoreable. (Tasted 11 May 2008)
Pamir, Shampani Tubik, n.v.: Made by the Charmat method from a blend of what is said to be Chardonnay and Rachuli Tetra grapes. On the nose and palate reminds of Diet Sprite plus a somewhat bitter licorice aftertaste. Unscoreable. (Tasted 11 May 2008)
Alada Sturi, Khatlon, 2005: A reinforced red-wine made in the style of Madeira. Dark amber in color with a hint of rusty brown, simple and alcoholic showing distinctly sweet caramel, butterscotch and sugared chestnuts. Score 65. (Tasted 11 May 2008)
Sharinov, Champanski, Khatlon, n.v.: Much as I recall sparkling wines from the former Georgian SSR, served from the freezer with generous ice already formed. Made by the Charmat method from Pinot Blanc and Semillon grapes, off dry, with fine bubbles, an abundance of acidity and lemon-lime aromas and flavors. When the last trace of ice in the bottle can no longer be seen the bottle is discarded and a new one presented as the wine develops a urine-like aroma as it warms. Score when served icy-cold 70; unscoreable and pretty much unspeakable when warm. (Tasted 11 May 2008)
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