by Alan Uchrinscko » Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:24 am
True about the ML Dale.
Excluding the Macon & Chablis, the VAST majority of White Burgundy sees oak, usually in increasing degrees from Villages (A.C.) to Premier Cru to Grand Cru. Of course some producers use more or more new oak than others, but in exploring Burgundy, the biggest factor IMO is what village it comes from.
Generally, unless there is a lot of oak or a high level of toast, the village will shine through in a well made wine. This is even the case in Chablis where I regularly blind taste a wine and think that oak has been used and there is none. When one tastes Chablis from Dauvissat, the first thing one thinks of is gunflint, minerals etc (even though oak is used).
Similarly, producers of Meursault such as Fichet or Henri Germain who use oak very carefully will shout of Meursault equally as much as Boyer-Martenot e.g.
Forget about the ML thing completely. Ignore the oak argument quite a bit. Learn the charcteristics of the villages and then their individual vineyards, and you will be closer to discerning the realms of possibilities of Burgundy. The other things are detours...
If Chablis didn't go through ML in a typical year, it very well might be undrinkable, so searching for "unoaked" and "no ML" won't really direct you to a style of Burgundy that is typical...oaked + ML will be 90% of all Burgundy made excepting Bourgogne Blancs, much of the Macon and some Chablis...
Buy:
Puligny AC from Pernot, Chassagne AC from Bernard Morey and Meursault from Matrot and drink them all with a couple of friends. You'll be a lot closer to examining the stylistic differences of Burgundy...
Alan Uchrinscko