Dinner Saturday night with Oliver (who provided all the wines – thanks a lot!) and my parents, to whom we wanted to show some affordable Piedmontese Nebbioli.
Rizzi Barbaresco Rizzi Boito 2004
Thanks to Oliver. Boito is a parcel in the eponymous Rizzi cru. Medium ruby-black, watery red at the rim. Lots of marzipan despite the fact there is no new oak here. Soft dried porcini, cherry Coke fruit, softly curranty. Faint charcoal dust, walnut and herbaceous spinach notes. A bit dusty tannin. Medium body and length. The more concentrated, structured and ageworthy of the two. In contrast to the Fondetta, this improves with airing. Rating: ~88
Rizzi Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta 2004
Thanks to Oliver. Fondetta is a parcel in the Nervo cru. A nicely perfumed and expressive Barbaresco, but this bottle seemed even lighter than on a couple of months ago, even in colour: light ruby with black reflections. More complex and finesseful, more minerally, more open and perfumey, more Burgundian, but with less backbone and lesser ageworthiness. Oxidizes more quickly in the decanter than the Boito, but despite its greater fruit density, it seems doubtful the latter will ever achieve the same kind of seductiveness. Having said that, although the Fondetta should keep for a few years, it appears to have no upwards potential. Rating: 88-/87
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 2001
Thanks to Oliver. Deeper ruby with black reflections and a garnet-orange hue and rim. More depth on the nose than either of the 2004 Rizzis. More compact and broad-shouldered. More luscious and flavourful tannin, creamier acidity. Fairly powerful, thicker, warming fruit. Good body, density and minor viscosity. Some dried rose petal, lemon and blonde orange. A touch of Alba truffle. Soft balsamic touch on the nicely full-flavoured finish. Quite alluring with a couple of hours-plus of airing. Oliver says the Asili from the same vintage is just as good, and fruitier, more approachable (he is going to to bring along a bottle next time – should be interesting!). Rating: 90(+?)
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti