St Huberts winery was established in Victoria's Yarra Valley in 1862 by Swiss settler, Hubert De Castella and within two decades, St. Huberts was regarded as one of the finest wineries in Australia, winning many international wine show awards along the way. Lack of demand for fine table wine through the early part of new century and, eventually, downward economic pressures saw this once great wine region mostly revert back to dairy farming and by 1912 the property had ceased all wine production. In 1966, a resurgence in demand for white and red table wine saw the Cester family re-establish a vineyard and winery of the same name in a similar location to the original site. Subsequently, several changes of ownership have occured, with the giant Foster's group acquiring possession of this brand after a successful takeover bid for another leading corporate raider of the time, Mildara Blass. Since its reincarnation, some great Cabernet, Chardonnay and the occasional excellent Pinot Noir have been made here. I have extremely fond memories of St Huberts Cabernet's including an exceptional 1977 and very good to outstanding examples from 1982, 1984, 1988, 1990, 1991 and now I'm just onto the remainder of my 1992's! All the current release St Hubert wines are competitively priced but, alas, I have no recent tasting experience. One of Australia's foremost wine critics, Jeremy Oliver certainly rates all recent vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon very well indeed. The track record of this historic winery is certainly good enough to suggest that great things can be done here. The 1992 reviewed below is a remarkably good Yarra Valley Cabernet, worthy of its outstanding rating and will last for another decade if well stored.
Still a saturated ruby red with little bricking in the edge. Initial burst of leafy greens, weeds, briar, cedar, herbs and red capsicum gradually replaced and enhanced with beautiful ripe blackcurrants. What a transition! Eerily reminiscent of a top class Bordeaux for a while, although this penetrating fruit sweetness eventually appears "new worldish". Palate is wonderfully fresh, of medium body displaying exemplary fruit and oak integration, surprisingly lively acidity, fine lacy tannins and an excellent finish. 92 points 13.3% A/V and sealed with a good quality cork.