Hi,
Our first appoinment was as Ch. Beauséjour Duffau-Lagrossse, where were met by no fewer than 3 family members. I think this was probably because the estate manager of many years (not a family member) had recently left under a cloud, and the owners wanted to do some damage control...
B.D.L.'s terroir is excellent, surrounded by other premiers crus on all sides. The estate had a low profile for many years (not a poor one by any means, just a bit lacklustre) and then their 1990 vintage was parkerized, which set them on the road to glory… and high prices.
The underground cellars dating back to medieval times are something to see.
The château is uninhabited, but used during the summer months and on special occasions by the 20 family members who own shares in this 6 and a half hectare estate.
We blind-tasted the 1993 (I thought it might have been the 95) and the 2003 (I was thinking more along the lines of 2002).
The former was disjointed to me, but the latter was a real beauty, polished and pure with a voluptuous attack going into serious tannin and a mineral aftertaste. Just wonderful.
This is probably one of those wines out of my price range now, but it is a treat, with none of the top-heavy, flabby characteristics some criticize in the 2003s.
I mentioned that my first impression (up until the aftertaste) of the '03 B.D.L. was of a fine Pomerol because of its suaveness and, well, fleshiness. It later transpired the ubiquitous Michel Rolland is their consultant now...
Our next stop was at Ch. Laniote, a small grand cru classé near the town of St. Emilion, close to Ch. Côte Baleau and across the road from Ch. Fonroque. Laniote has been in Arnaud de la Filolie's family for nearly 200 years. His wife is Florence Ribéreau-Gayon (enologist and daughter of the Dean of the Faculty of Enology).
M. de la Filolie also owns the Chapelle de la Trinité right next door to the Eglise Monolithe in the town of St. Emilion (the family rents it to the local tourist office). This explains the engraving on Laniote's very 19th century label.
I came away with mixed feelings about Laniote.
The good part is that Arnaud is a great jokester and even performs magic tricks while he takes you around! Belly laughs guaranteed. You can get an idea of the approach by visiting his wacked-out Web site http://www.laniote.com/laniote-us.htm.
However, the one wine we tasted, 2004 Laniote, was really rather disappointing. Unfortunately for me, this is the only bottle of the wine I have in my cellar! However, far be it from me to damn an estate from tasting one wine. Perhaps others have had a different experience with Laniote. If so, I'd be interested to hear from you.
Most Laniote is sold in France via Castel and their retail branch, Nicolas.
We had lunch at the Clos du Roy http://boiremanger.canalblog.com/archiv ... 10780.html
I've always thought this the best place to eat in St. Emilion, and infinitely better value for money than the Hostellerie de la Plaisance.
We ate outside (a real pleasure after a mostly rotten month of April). While the food was very good, the wine was, for me anyway, a disaster. The wine waiter initially suggested a 2002 Monbousquet. I said no thank you, not my style of wine. However, I was talked into a 2001 "Lucia" since not only the sommelier, but also my friend said it seemed like a good choice.
We didn't finish the bottle. This was an overpriced, overoaked, "technical" sort of wine that is an abomination if you ask me, a perversion of Bordeaux.
Can anyone tell me if Robert Parker likes it?
It was Portes Ouvertes weekend in Lalande de Pomerol so we drover there after lunch (probably just as well we didn't finish the bottle…).
We only had time to visit 2 estates:
Siaurac has been owned by the Guichard family for a couple of centuries. The late Olivier Guichard was one of General de Gaulle's "barons". The family also owns Vraye Croix de Gay in Pomerol and Le Prieuré, a St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé.
The château itself is lovely and they had put out picnic tables and arranged a harpsichord concert on the beautiful grounds!
I had come to pick up a case of '05 I had bought en primeur. We tasted this, as well as the 2004, 2007, and an inexpensive 100% Merlot wine they sell for 8 euros a bottle.
I was relieved to see that my 2005 was mostly as good as I remembered, even though it is going through a backward stage at present. The 2004 was a bit meagre in comparison, but the 2007 was surprisingly good. Might this because Stéphane Derenencourt has begun advising them...?
Our last stop was Ch. Belles Graves, which is also a gîte. Belles Graves is in an idyllic setting and the château is small and sweet. Just the sort of place I'd like to buy if I were moderately wealthy.
http://www.belles-graves.com/accueileng.html
I've been a great fan of this wine for the past decade. It was too early to pick up my case of 2006, but I walked away with 6 bottles of 2005.
This wine is more open and user-friendly than Siaurac, which calls for more ageing.
It has an enticing melt-in-your-mouth richness and sufficient structure and aftertaste to make it well-balanced. OK, Pétrus it ain't, but at this price point (15-16 euros, same as Siaurac), you can enjoy a hell of a good wine. It is smooth and sensual. There's not the weight and amplitude of a great wine, but this is just the sort of mid-range Bordeaux that is an excellent example of what the region can do in the affordable range.
Best regards,
Alex R.
