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WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

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David M. Bueker

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WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by David M. Bueker » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:42 am

Dinner with good friends last night. We went to a Thai restaurant, but purposely kept the heat low to nonexistent to allow the wines to be the focus.

2006 Donnhoff Riesling Kabinett Trocken 'Grey Slate'
I'm not generally a fan of kabinett trocken, but Spencer brought this, and well it's Donnhoff so I'll be polite and try it. Surprisingly yummy, but perhaps not so surprising, as it's more like spatlese trocken in body and has very fine critrus aromatics and flavors riding over a bed of slate. Solid acidity, and in fact this really needs food. Good stuff though. I would buy this & add it to the cellar rotation.

2000 Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg
Somethign happened to this bottle, as it had a distinct petillant character and a volatile aromatic quality. Truly weird. Seems like some acetobacter got in there somehwere. Too bad, as this is a producer I always like.

1999 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese
This is really starting to develop. Still a lot of apples and bright citrus on the nose, along with a hint of petrol, but the finish has this lovely creamy character. Still not the most vibrant Riesling in the world, but that's the '99 vintage speaking. This is not profound wine, but it's very drinkable and the finish is just plain delicious.

2000 Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese
This is showing better than any bottle I have had to date. Peaches, honey, spice and a very interesting spearmint note all mingle to gether on the nose. Something about the mint character makes it a fantastic match with the food, and it's slimmed down into a more refreshing drink (previously it was a bit heavy). Very yummy now.

And then there was one. This was a bit of a joke by Eli, but we're geeks, so soldier on we must.

2005 Mollydooker Shiraz 'Two Left Feet'
Well it has a screwcap. It's got that going for it. Eli opened this, sniffed at the open bottle & said "oof." That was about right. I do have a guilty pleasure of big wines. I like some of them if they are balanced (Sine Qua Non seems to get it right more often than anyone else). This was not balanced. This was the quintessential blueberry milkshake spiked with vodka. It was undrikable. Spencer, Eli and I all tried a glass & it was a unanimous decision - horrifying.
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Martin Barz

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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by Martin Barz » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:49 am

Hi David,

on Monday I had a 1990 Dönnhoff HH Spätlese trocken and I was totally impressed from the performance. Good to see that
a Riesling trocken could age so well, as normally I am more a young-wine-drinker.

Best,
Martin
http://berlinkitchen.com
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by David M. Bueker » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:06 am

Hi Martin,

I'm impressed that a 1990 trocken could age well. Trocken winemaking has gotten so much better since then. I think we now have a few of the new trockens that can age as well and as long as some great Alsacian Rieslings. I don't think we're at Clos St. Hune level yet, but it's coming.
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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by Martin Barz » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:10 am

BTW, here is an interesting article in the NYTimes from Eric Asimov about german Riesling.

"German Rieslings, Light and Dry"

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/23/dinin ... ref=dining
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by Dale Williams » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:12 am

Too bad re the Knoll.

I was about to post same article-Martin scooped me. It was first I had seen of the Grey Slate.
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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by David M. Bueker » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:29 am

This was my first taste of the Grey Slate. HOnestly I think it's better than his normal kabinett from Leistenberg (though I have never been a big fan of that wine).
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Re: WTN: Rocky Germans, Flawed Austrians & Drunken Aussies

by Dieter Weiser » Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:21 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:2000 Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg
Somethign happened to this bottle, as it had a distinct petillant character and a volatile aromatic quality. Truly weird. Seems like some acetobacter got in there somehwere. Too bad, as this is a producer I always like.
1999 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese
This is really starting to develop. Still a lot of apples and bright citrus on the nose, along with a hint of petrol, but the finish has this lovely creamy character. Still not the most vibrant Riesling in the world, but that's the '99 vintage speaking. This is not profound wine, but it's very drinkable and the finish is just plain delicious.

Very comprehensive notes, thanks David.
In my experience, lots of 2000 Wachau whites are lacking freshness and acidity, hence they may be vulnerable to any subsequent faults?
Willi Schaefer's wines are oftenly long-living, authentic, solid and robust examples of classic Mosel Riesling - rarely disappointing but also rarely beating expectations. While many '76 Rieslings have gone downhill, his '76 Domprobst Auslese is still standing upright, surprisingly fresh and a pleasure to drink. Skoal! :D

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