AOC Côtes du Marmandais - “Clos Bacquey” 1999 – Domaine Elian da Ros – Alc; 13.5% (€ 19 for 2004).
This is an obscure Bordeaux area satellite appellation situated roughly 100km upstream along the Garonne from that big city. For reds Bordeaux right bank grape varieties dominate but there is a little Syrah and a local variety called Arbouriou. For some time, drinkable wines have been made by la Cave Co-opérative de Cocumont but Elian Da Ros, a disciple of the Humbrechts, is the first producer to really test the appellation’s quality potential and has become quite a star making wines which have been demanding attention and gaining appreciation since the 1997 vintage.
This is the estate’s top cuvée and is made from roughly equal proportions of Cabernet franc, Merlot and Arbouriou.
C: Deep carmine with no signs of bricking.
N: Well developed cassis, dark cherry with a dash of ivy.
P: This bottle shows rich, deep, velvety fruit with similar aromas to the nose plus a touch of cherry brandy towards the finish, a somewhat up-front shape on the palate but not short, good grip and resolved tannins. There is no jamminess and I cannot detect any new wood, although it may well have seen some.
The touches of cherry and ivy remind me of cool climate Syrah and I would have wagered that there was some in the blend but apparently not; maybe it is the contribution of Arbouriou. Because of this, the wine is less of a ringer for good Saint-Emilion than its stable mate, Chante-Coucou. A fine wine in a much more accessible style than the nearby Cahors which I have been drinking lately; 16.5/20.