Tonight we had a tasting of 16 VPs from a year that is generally considered very special. I was quite impressed by most of these wines. All were tasted half-blind.
Dalva 1994 was a lighter, elegant style, quite mature already. The colour was the lightest of the bunch; the nose was more red toned in fruit than the others, it had a touch of VA, was spicy and even quite woody - reminding me of 10yo Tawny. Sweet, spicy but sadly rather hot on the finish. Very drinkable. I enjoyed this more than the other tasters because of its elegance.
Sandeman 1994 was my least favourite of the night. The nose had typical VP aromas of dark fruit, raisins, but also was lactic, sweaty and smelled like oatmeal! It was certainly unique in its aromas, but not perhaps what I look for in VP. The palate was better: soft style, plump and voluptious, soft structure, persistent yet simple. Even though it was my least favourite wine tonight, it still provides some pleasure.
Romariz 1994 was competent but a bit boring. There was absolutely nothing wrong with this wine: dark fruit, chocolate, raisins - it seems just what a young VP should be like. The palate was well structured, but the fruit and sugar made it easy to drink, it was a bit spicy.... but it just wasn't memorable. I am sure that without the stellar company this was in, it would have been a wonderful drink.
Ferreira 1994 was just wonderful. The nose was refreshing and plummy, lifted and refreshing and with a lovable floral/oolong tea perfume. The palate was well structured with a savoury, herbal/medicinal note giving a counterpoint to the sweetness. Ferreira's VPs rarely get much praise, but half-blind I really loved this one!
Croft 1994 was peachy, lifted and savoury, but was more sweeter and more earthy than the Ferreira. With air this became extremely chocolatey. The tannins were very attractive: noticable and plentiful but so ripe that they weren't a hinderance to current enjoyment. Quite weighty, dried fruit, long. Nice, but if I may be a little critical of what was a very enjoyable Port, I wouldn't mind a bit more savouryness/acidity or something so it would be a bit more refreshing.
Ramos Pinto 1994 was alongside the Ferreira, one of my favourites of the "lesser" ports. The nose was very aromatic/perfumed with peach kernel, rosewater, a touch of tobacco, dark fruit with redder high notes. The palate wasn't as complex, and was quite red berried - others thought it was short; I thought it was long and nicely acidic, savoury and earthy. But what I perceived as length wasn't the sort of fruit-forward power that length so often is understood as with VPs but rather a red toned, berried-ness like with some Burgundies I so much like (Montille).
Ramos Pinto Quinta da Ervamoira VP 1994 was very simple and strawberried on the nose; a bit unclean - the slightest touch of cork? Dense and sweet, but the aftertaste dropped off a cliff. It just doesn't seem right, but I can't get "corky" aromas out of it.
Fonseca 1994 got millions of points from all sorts of publications, but served blind it was good, but not life-changing. The nose at first was quite stern, strawberried but with some darker fruit tones playing the bass stem, some savoury tea & tobacco scents. Sweet, strong tannins, fair acid, complete but a bit hot. Very nice, but not special in this company.
Graham's 1994 was very sweet. It was dense, very sweet and strawberried, with some jammy notes (i.e. sweet ... got that already?) and some clay, too. The palate was very sweet, but bright and pure in its fruit, not quite as jammy as the nose promised, lots of soft tannins - despite all of that unctuous sweetness, this somehow stays together and is actually moreish! I like it very much.
Dow's 1994 was lifted and dark toned in fruit, mulberry, tar, blue flowers, but also some savoury notes of green tea and peach kernel. Sweet but savoury, very harmonious with no edges sticking out even though it is obviously very young, persistent and the aftertaste grows in the mouth. Lovely.
Quinta do Noval 1994 was a brutish wine that smelled more like a Barossa Shiraz minus the oak than Port! Tar, black fruit, mulberry, huge sweetness, chocolatey, blackpepper, coffee, lifted. The palate is less of a blockbuster, harmoniously tannic, very sweet but with some savoury elements. Nice but too much like a Barossa Shiraz for me to truly enjoy.
Quita do Noval Nacional 1994 was a totally different wine from the Noval: sweet, with a perfect mix of darker and redder fruit notes, slight savoury medicinal herbs, spice - very classic Port compared to the "new world" Noval. Dark fruit, well structured palate, very sweet but earthy also. Slightly too toffeed aftertaste - but this is just silliness getting caught up on such a minor note in an otherwise lovely wine. (Ref. Rachmaninov's comment when Hoffman (technically most perfect pianist ever?) made one mistake in a recital: "don't look for spots on the sun".)
Quinta do Vesuvio 1994 was perhaps my favourite of the evening - though in such a company it is hard to decide. Elegant but sweet, perfumed and floral like an oolong tea, both red and black fruit - the opposites come together in a perfect harmony. Tannic and youthful, but fruity and with just the right amount of sweetness, but it still stays refreshing and savoury and moreish. A very beautiful Port.
Skeffington 1994 was off - smelled like soy sauce.
Taylor's 1994 was also a bit off - smelled like soy sauce and strawberry jam. Not corked, but maybe cooked?
Warre's 1994 was another of my favourites with its dark toned yet lifted and peachy/savoury nose, powerful and masculine yet paradoxically elegant also. Sweet and dense yet light on its feet, structured yet irresistably drinkable despite its youthfulness, slightly herbal and savoury. A very complete young VP.
As a blind dessert we were given Samuel Adams Utopias which is supposed to be the world's strongest beer at 25%abv. Blind, I thought it might be a sherry or an Aussie fortified: very salty, chalky, flor-like nose; salty but slightly sweet palate, intense - very interesting stuff! I liked it.
With a dinner of shrimp and risotto I had a glasses of dry drinks for a change: *Adegas Valmiñor Davíla L100 2006 which is a 100% Loureiro from Rías Baixas. Very perfumed, pear and minerals, sea breeze. Dry but fruity, mineral, long and savoury. I like it. Very nice with the shrimp.
Krug 1990 was a heavy style of champagne, very complex, but I have to admit, it just isn't my style of fizz: ponderous, oaky, too much of everything. It quite overpowered the shrimp and risotto even though it didn't seem like a delicate dish.
Saison Dupont is a wonderful beer, very hoppy and refreshing, and this was perhaps the best combination with the dinner. Beers are horribly underrated on the table.
-Otto
