As always, there was an interesting line-up of wine-growers at the Spring tasting of TGVins/Le Vin Passion. The wines shown were of a high standard but I have a feeling, which I need to check, that prices are creeping upwards. Where is the vineyard crisis?
Domaine Lupin from Frangy, Haute-Savoie, represented by Bruno Lupin.
This is a little known domaine from a little known appellation but Roussette de Savoie AOC “Cru Frangy” 2006 (€ 7,80), made from the obscure white variety, Altesse, is delicious; crisply lean and fresh with appealing acidity and minerality; 15.5/20. Roussette de Savoie AOC “Cru Frangy Cuvée du Pépé VV” 2006 (€ 10.34) is richer, rounder with more “gras”(= “fat”, but that sounds negative in English), some touches of honey, crisp acidity and minerals; 15.5/20.
Domaine de Bellivière from Lhomme, Jasnières, represented by Éric Nicolas.
As always fascinating wines here. Coteaux du Loir “L’Effraie” 2004 (€ 14,10) from young vines shows good “gras” and minerals marked by charcoal notes which Nicolas attributes to the dry 2003 summer having forced the roots deeper resulting in an extra mineral uptake in 2004 and to a less extent in 2005; I like this note which I have also noticed in some 04 white burgundies but it is unusual and may disconcert some; 15/20. Jasnières “Les Rosiers” 2005 (demi-sec - € 18,59) shows a mineral nose with some burnish and is softer with more “gras” on the palate; 15.5/20. Coteaux du Loir Vieilles Vignes Éparses 2005 (€ 20,09) has 20g of RS but doesn’t show it much and is complex and deep with rich “gras”, minerals, honey notes and a touch of that charcoal; 16/20. Jasnières “Caligramme” 2006 (€ 27,49) comes from 70 year vines and has 7g of RS; it is really lovely with complex burnished aromas of white fruit, flowers and minerals and with freshness, breadth, “gras”, length and great class on the palate; 16.5/20+.
Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthal of Rully, Côte Chalonnaise, represented by Vincent Dureuil.
This young rigorous vigneron has a richer but less finely focussed style than my other favourite Rully vigneron, Jacqueson. He uses quite lot of new wood (25 – 33% on all wines except Aligoté and Passe-tout-grains) but such is the intensity of the matter that in no case here does it dominate and offend me (but I am not a fundamentalist in quercophobia). Bourgogne Aligoté 2006 (€ 8,58) shows surprising breadth; one of the best and least acidic which I have encountered; 15/20. Bourgogne (W) 2006 (€ 11,09) has more subdued aromas but shows generous fruit and good length; 15.5/20. I thought that Rully Villages (W) 2006 (€ 15,59) was more closed than the previous with at present more obvious caramel notes from its barrel ageing but the person tasting next to me disagreed; 15/20. Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains 2006 (€ 8,58) is spicy, fruity and smoky with fresh acidity; a nice glug 15.5/20. Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006 (€ 11,09) shows pure, fresh fruit with good acidity and prune hints; 15/20. Rully Villages (R) 2006 (€ 15,59) is a step up, rounder and longer with sour cherry and prune hints; 15.5/20 and Rully Maizières 2006 (€ 18,09) continues the ascension with added hints of cassis and candy with more complexity and length; 16/20.
Domaine Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil, represented by himself.
Yannick Amirault detests the common vegetal (bell pepper) flavours of reds from his region as well as the “animal” (brett) notes, which are also quite frequent, so he finds himself navigating between Scylla and Charybdis because if he takes action in the vineyard, particularly by greater ripeness, and in the chai to eliminate the former then the latter are apt to flourish. It is testimony to his skill that he succeeds most of the time. I protested that I find the vegetal and animal notes add a, for me, welcome typicity and complexity provided they are not dominant and Amirault gave me the excellent answer “it is the first duty of an honest vigneron to make wine that he himself likes, otherwise it is cynical opportunism”. Well, as always with Amirault, the wines shown were excellent in their style and on one I even caught a touch of, for me, welcome leather which was also not too much for Amirault to tolerate.
Bourgueil “Le Coudraye” 2006 (€ 10,09) shows a nose with surprising richness and complexity of fruit for this level but the palate is more muted and quite soft; Amirault thinks it needs another year for full expression; 15.5/20. Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil “Les Malganges” 2006 (€ 17,28) is more closed on the nose with touches of jam and leather but the palate shows more structure and complexity; 3-4 years needed for full expression; 16/20. Bourgueil “La Petite Cave” 2006 barrel sample (€ 17,28) is more concentrated and structured, full of fruit and matter and needing even more time; 16/20.
Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin, Cairanne, represented by François Alary.
This is one of my favourite estates and is well represented in my cellar.
Côtes du Rhône “Tradition” 2005 (€ 8,04) is usually a very reliable generic CDR but this one was decanted because of reduction, which I have also encountered and have had difficulty in eliminating on Réserve des Seigneurs 05; by the time I got to this CDR the reductive aromas had disappeared and the wine is nicely generous and structured; 15.5/20. CDVR Cairanne “Réserve des Seigneurs” 2006 (€ 11,59) is back to form showing lovely spicy Grenache fruit with grip; 16/20. CDVR Cairanne “Prestige” 2006 (€ 14,34), derived from 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre, is noticeably richer, more complex and structure; 16/20 now with ++ potential and CDVR Cairanne “Haut-Coustias” 2005 (€ 15,64), derived from 60% Mourvèdre and 20% each from Grenache and Syrah, is more closed but reveals aromas of violet, kirsch and meat together with fine matter, structure and length; potentially 16.5/20+. I am very happy to have bottles of the last three. Finally Alary showed CDVR Cairanne “Haut-Coustias” blanc 2005 (€ 14,04), a blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Clairette with a dash of Grenache blanc; this shows Mediterranean aromas of white fruit, honey and anis with good “gras”, complexity and length; acidity is not very pronounced and I fear for its ageing potential but Alary claims that it holds well while gaining complexity for 4-5 years; 16/20 right now.
Domaine de l’Oustal Blanc from Minervois represented by Claude Fronquerle.
This is an unfamiliar estate for me. I like the wines and the owner but the prices are a bit steep.
Vin de Table “Naïck Rouge 2005” (€ 12 ,29) is disqualified from the appellation because it contains only Cinsault and Carignan with no Syrah; it shows a nose of prunes and leather and a generous palate with added notes of orange and anis; 15/20. Minervois “Tradition” 2005 (€ 20,09), 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Carignan, shows an almost black colour, a dense nose and very nice up-front dense fruit on the palate with prune notes but a tad short; 15/20. Minervois La Livinière 2005 (€ 29,44), 90% Grenache, is richer and more mineral on the nose and both deeper and longer on the palate; 16/20 but that is a lot to pay for Minervois.
Vignobles Olivier Decelle, Bordeaux, represented by a young lady whose name I failed to catch.
Olivier Decelle of Mas Amiel, who is wealthy from a former business career, has moved into Bordeaux. Château Haut-Maurac Médoc Cru Bougeois 2004 (€ 12), 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, is already drinking very well with fresh fruity aromas and good grip albeit a tad short; 15.5/20. Château Bellevue Fronsac 2005 (€ 11,25), 100% Merlot, is at present quite tough and leathery with substantial but inexpressive matter and structure and a curious after-taste reminding me of the dust of an old building site mixed with bitter chocolate; 13/20 right now with ? potential. Château Jean Faure Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2005 (€ 24,59), 54% Cabernet franc, 40% Merlot and 6% Malbec, was drinking expressively about a year ago but has now shut down tight; just a hint of meat on the nose and impressive matter, structure and length; “will be great in ten years” said the presenter and, judging by the substance and what I recall from last year, she may be right; potentially 16.5/20.
Mas Amiel from Maury
Since Olivier Decelle acquired this estate, some fine red table wines have been added to the already well known range of sweet fortified VDNs (= Vins doux naturels). Côtes du Roussillon Rosé 2007 (€ 8,74) made from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah shows boiled sweet aromas on fruity and mineral palate; 14.5/20. Côtes du Roussillon “Le Plaisir” 2006 (€ 10,19), 75% Grenache, lives up to its name and is easy drinking with round, velvety and supple fruit; 14.5/20. Côtes du Roussillon Villages “Notre Terre” 2006 (€ 12,19), 70% Grenache and 15% each of Carignan and Syrah, shows a lot more personality and structure on top of the fine fruit; 15.5/20+. Maury Vintage 2006 (€ 16,59), a VDN from Grenache, shows aromas of concentrated dried and candied fruit and prunes on a fruity long palate with good tannic grip on the finish; it seems more concentrated than I recall from previous vintage; this wine is always a stand-by with rich desserts, especially with chocolate, as its sweetness complements that of dessert whilst its crisply structured finish cuts off any cloying; 16/20. Maury Cuvée Spéciale 10 ans (€ 18,38) is matured for 1 year exposed to sunlight in a glass container and for 9 years in wood; its nose is frankly oxidative with prune notes and the palate is broad with a complex development of the nose’s aromas but less structured than the Vintage; 16.5/20.